Rolf
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Everything posted by Rolf
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I never bought into that either until I did a clock project for SSWWC. I was cutting the hands for the clock in Cherry which is notorious for burning (pitch pockets). I ran out of tape on part of it and this was the result. the burned area had no tape. I Never use packing tape. It is a pain in the butt to remove, and as others have said if you miss a piece and you will, especially on fretwork, it will screw up your finish. I currently use only the Duck brand clear Removable, shelf liner.
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I had used the Contact brand forever and thanks to Charles Hands suggestion I switched to the Duck brand. And have had no issues. As the others have said I also pre sand to 320 Especially if I am doing delicate fretwork. wipe of the dust to be safe apply liner, run pattern through the Xyron, put it on the liner. No issues!
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Wonderful job with some beautiful designs! What saw are you using? Top feeding?
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did you have a space between "the" and "artfactory.com" ?
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Can you post a picture, it is always nice to see how innovative folks are with their dust collection.
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When I lived in Merced CA (USAF) ,. My mobile home had a swamp cooler on the roof. In that dry climate that worked great. But I also did not have any tools at that time. I The humidity here on LI is brutal at times and I run a dehumidifier all summer in my basement. When it gets real bad I have stand alone AC unit that I vent outside, that really cools the basement quickly. The rest of the house has CA
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I do all of my own yard work and most of the work that the house requires. There are, however those things that I can do but no longer want to. Like roof repair. Those I hire out. My scrolling usually slows down during the summer when the car and boating season kicks in. I am working on getting my boat in the water but have to fix something that has not been touched since 2005 (prior owner and myself to blame) Unless like like right now we have high heat and humidity so I have been scrolling a significant project for SSWWC in my basement shop.
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Frank a very nice cut! Where on Long Island did he buy?
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Just a word of caution on buying used saws especially Hawks. I have been communicating with a guy that bought a Hawk G4 26 for an incredibly low price. That saw was so out of whack it was impossible to use. We now have it sorted . If you are not a mechanically inclined tinkerer a used saw can be an issue. I would also never buy a Hawk that is older than 2005 when the G4 was released. This is just my opinion based on what I have experienced.
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Rockytime you will be surprised at how quiet it is. One thing I had happen with my California compressor, something to watch on all compressors. There is a unloader valve that relieves the air pressure in the compressor once it is full. If that pressure is not released the motor can't start and will overheat. I initially thought I had a bad motor. Did a little digging on the web and found an article about this. Ends up there was a bit of debris in the valve allowing air pressure to blead back into the compressor. It has been fine since.! but to be on the safe side I always turn all of my compressors off when not in use.
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The pin nailer doesn't use much flow just pressure. It would be perfect for all of the smaller shop pneumatic tools.
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You have every right to brag about this piece! It is really nice. Meflicks advice is spot on! So I will repeat some of it. Regarding Intarsia tips and techniques the intarsia section may get you more specific guidance. That said, for fit Cutting precision is crucial, be consistent, as crazy as it may sound I try to split the line to the outside, trying to minimize what you lose with the blade Kerf. I also try to use the smallest thinnest blade I can get away with. An example the Pegas MGT 3 12.4 TPI cuts a kerf .014" so on your wing where there are 11 pieces, depending on how you cut it. If segmentation 5 cuts remove .07" of material. So it is easy to see that cutting to minimize the kerf loss on a large piece becomes critical. I do use the MG 1R kerf .0114 so the same five cuts remove .057
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I have small super quiet California air compressor that came with my Vortex F5 power carver. A very economical well rated clone of that is now sold by Harbor Freight. I don't usually go to HF for power tools, but they have stepped up their game. I think this would be perfect for an air brush https://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-135-psi-ultra-quiet-hand-carry-jobsite-air-compressor-64592.html although I would step up to the 2 gallon for a bit more. A compressor with a tank reduces the pulsing caused by the tankless. Just my opinion. I rarely use my air brush since I do mostly one off projects and it takes me longer to clean the brush than to do the spray. I have an Aztec which I thought was great when I bought it.
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If I remember correctly one of my sisters had her wedding reception there.
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The Ronkonkoma restaurant was called the Bavarian Inn.
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Excellente on all levels. What a stunning automobile and your rendering is perfect.
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Very nice!
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Interesting tools.
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I was never impressed with the Dremel router base even when new it seemed a bit sloppy. I have used it a few times.
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The largest fretwork that I do is 11 x 14 like what Charles Hand designs. I use a small Micro Mark drill press. I have had it for many years. It easily holds the #70 bits. The throat is large enough that I can get to the middle of my projects. For a normal Drill press I went nuts! I do a large variety of projects not just wood. I hated moving the belts on my Delta floor model so as most of us probably do I left the speed in one place most of the time. I now own a Nova Voyager , No belts direct drive like my Nova lathe speeds 50 - 5500 . 6" spindle travel. This thing blew my mind when it first came out.
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We had a massive one in our machine shop. I maybe saw it used once (in 30 years) most of the precision work was done on the Bridgeport milling machines. But it had huge throat and the ability to rotate the head to drill angled holes eliminated the need for making a fixture for just one or two angled holes. This one would need an auxiliary table. and I would use a Wixey to set the angle. It would be great if you were doing a lot of beveled inlays. It is the drill press version of the EX style saw where the table stays level giving you much more control.
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Kevin is it the Pitman arm? The sealed large bearing or the needle roller bearing. I just rebuilt a friends second EX 21. This is what I found in the first one rust in the needle bearings. That tells me the bearing Never had grease in it. Why the saw even ran was a mystery to me. When I have time I will check all of my bearing sources to see If I can find these bearings. It does not make sense for a manufacturer to make their own bearings.
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For my fine inlay work I use a #70 bit (.028") I have bought quality bits from Mcmaster Carr. You can also get them from Amazon or best of all support our scroll saw blade suppliers.
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I Really like your wood choice.! It is such an efficient use of wood compared to the normal way of turning a bowl. The fretwork deer is also very nice. who's pattern is it?
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Very nice work. Where did you get the Jeff Zaffino pattern? He disappeared from the design scene many years ago.
