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Rolf

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Everything posted by Rolf

  1. Rolf
    Congratulations on the new saw! Ray The only thing you need to do with the Hawk legs is kick them out until the saw settles in. . I am so glad they went back to the billet aluminum machined parts. I love my G4 but was never crazy about the rough cast steel frame.
  2. Rolf
    I have a couple of things to add. This Pegas blade chart has the suggested drill bit for each blade size. I also have a big drill bit chart on my shop wall that lists all bits number, fraction and metric. To me that is a must have for what I do. The smallest bit I use is a #70 (.028") for when I do beveled inlays. All of the really small bits should be used in a drill press or they will break. I do a lot of stack cutting and have a dedicated Micro Mark drill press. As for the Micro chucks not all are created equal You get what you pay for. Some of these small chucks have a serious runout. I did go nuts and replace my Delta 16" floor model drill press with the most awesome tool in my basement. It has a chuck that goes from 5/8 to at least a #67 (.032") and the drill is quiet, no vibration as there are no belts and a speed range all the way up to 5500 rpm, great for small bits. I usually run the small bits at 3000. PegasChart.pdf
  3. Rolf
    As you say a sharp blade is crucial! Many new scrollers buy a few blades and think that they will last forever. After you have scrolled for a while you will (hopefully) get a feel for when a blade needs to be changed. That is especially critical when doing delicate fretwork and you find you are pushing too hard. I just had a refresher course after cutting 54, 3/4" maple puzzles that needed a minimum gap so I used a Pegas MGT 3R (12.4TPI) for minimum kerf.
  4. Rolf
    Another thing is to not push sideways in the turns. It takes a real conscious effort not to. Glad you got it sorted.
  5. Rolf
    I buy "thin Fin" at a local supplier. That reminds me I need more. 1.5mm (.059") I have also purchased thinner than that at either Michaels or the former AC Moore. Maybe a real hobby shop. I am currently making some segmentation ornaments and I have some leftover Veneer that I am using as a backer. What I have also done is re-saw some thin slices then run them through the drum sander to the thinnest I have done is about .040".
  6. Rolf
    I don't know where you live, but do a search for a local club or others that scroll. I have a lot of books and also our local library. I used them mostly for ideas on what I might like to make. Watching my (now) friends in the the club really shortened my learning curve. We have members with over 60 years of experience. As the others have said practice is what it takes.
  7. Rolf
    1/16 is a lot!
  8. Rolf
    That is not good, I will have a look at mine and see if they are flat. Do not hammer them. If you must, support the outside edges and use a press to sneak up on the flatness. That would be a bit more controlled. Did you measure the Gap? (Feeler gauges)
  9. Rolf
    I have never had an issue with snipe on my 735.
  10. Rolf
    It is nice that we can have different opinions about tools and still smile about it. I am fortunate to be in a position to be able to buy the tools that I want, and I have replaced many tools that worked great but could have been better. I am however restricted by space. I use a lot of thin wood (1/8) a bit tricky on the planer. I now have a drum sander and re-saw my thin wood, much safer. I have considered switching to helical cutters on my planer and jointer. It seems no matter how careful I am I get a nick in a new set of blades very quickly. Fortunately the blade change in the 735 is very easy. I have not used a planer with helical cutters so have no first hand knowledge.
  11. Rolf
    I have the Dewalt 735. since 2009 (I think) absolutely love it You really need to have dust collection connected to any of them. The Dewalt has a very powerful built in blower so it just needs a hose connected to it that goes into some form of containment. Mine is connected to my central DC system. I had the hose pop off in the middle of a cut once OMG what a mess!
  12. Rolf
    I am a big proponent for the Pegas clamp upgrade. But in the mean time has anyone ever tried to squeeze the stock clamps back together? It should be doable as long as they are not cracked.
  13. Rolf
    My prayers for the family!
  14. Rolf
    That makes even more beautiful and special!
  15. Rolf
    Did you design the pattern?
  16. Rolf
    The Panther really pops. ! When doing fretwork like that magnificent clock grain direction is not very helpful because of the design. If you strengthen one direction you will have just as many weak areas in the other direction. Cherry is such a beautiful wood. If you have the capability to glue up Veneers. you could make your own cherry plywood.
  17. Rolf
    My first Serious Fretwork challenge. I had only been scrolling for a couple of years and it was my first ribbon presented to me by Wes Demarest who was an editor for Creative woodworking and crafts magazine back then. 2006 It was a Jeff Zaffino design. It was also my first homemade frame and attempt at matt cutting. the frame is Cherry. Baltic birch stack cut 3 up.
  18. Rolf
    I for got to mention the feature of the lower arm coming out through the angle adjustment. It made it so much easier to deal with the lower clamp. We talk about how it seems the scroll saw designers are not scrollers. Well who ever designed the Hawk G4 really made changes to the saw that made scrolling a lot easier and safer. Another change was the upper arm pops up and stops moving when a blade breaks. so that piece of broken blade isn't trying to perforate your hand.
  19. Rolf
    I believe it was his brother, Hans that passed. I used to enjoy speaking German with him. We used to tease each other about the Hegner VS Hawk. He was a true gentleman.
  20. Rolf
    Puzzle guy, Could you take a couple of pictures of the saw with closeups of the bottom and top clamp areas. The vibration issue, Being a 4 legged saw. whenever I move my G4 26 (2005) I have to kick the legs a bit until all four are solidly planted on my not so level floor. But it may still have a spot in the speed range where it may vibrate. I was never happy with the plastic lower clamp retainer and the replacement from Bushton was not flexible so I made my own from some beryllium copper.
  21. Rolf
    This is all beautiful work. But Linda on the SSWWC found a picture of the design. Now finding the pattern will be another challenge.
  22. Rolf
    A fellow club member is looking for a pattern called "Flight of Fancy" does this ring a bell with anyone?
  23. Rolf
    Nice work. I agree with Frank on the Photo box. Curious as to what prices you will be putting on these items.
  24. Rolf
    I answered your PM. I do have and love my G4, I did however change the upper clamp to the Delta quick clamp. that mod is no longer available. The saw has served me well since May 2005. pretty much paid for the rest of the tools in my shop. I have had only very minor maintenance issues in the 16 years of ownership. This is sacrilege for me to say, but if I were in the market for a new saw it would be a Pegas. The added feature of the table staying flat and the arms tilting has swayed me in that direction. Also the Pegas blade clamps are far superior to the other saws in this style of saw. I know that is not what you asked for nor do I want to start a saw battle as most of us really think our saws are the best. And no it is not for sale.
  25. Rolf
    When I first joined our scroll saw club in around 2004 we used to bring our saws to the old barn where we held our meetings. most of the older experienced scrollers had Hegners, they all lined up on one side of the barn the rest of us had a mix of saws I had a Delta SS350 at the time. What surprised me no one could run their saws at max speed or they would walk across the floor including the Hegners. It was because of the floor. After I bought my Hawk G4 it was not happy on that floor either. It just purrs on my concrete basement floor.
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