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Rolf

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Everything posted by Rolf

  1. Do a Google search for planeing thin wood. I have also have the Dewalt 735 and have exploded a few pieces of thin wood. Never stand in line with the feed because you will have wood being kicked out. you can make jigs etc. to hold the wood. The grain direction is also critical. I use a great deal of thin woods and now own a Supermax 19-38 drum sander. I re-saw and then sand to dimension. I have also had to replace the internal plastic chute that was shattered by one of my thin wood adventures. I usually don't go below 1/4 in the planer. These videos use double sided tape , CA glue or hot glue.
  2. I remember Sheriff Doc Daffit arresting all of the long haired hippies from Alabama for vagrancy, shaving their hair off , apologizing for the misunderstanding and letting them go. We also have a mass exodus from NYC out to our neck of the woods, Housing prices have gone absolutely bonkers. We are in a small incorporated village "Bellport", the dividing line through it is South country rd. The Million dollar homes are to the south and "normal folks" like us north. Many of the southern homes were summer houses, a recent sale 5M. Many of these folks work in the city and are now permanent residents. Two houses just around the corner just sold for 1m+, the average home price on the north side has jumped to 450- 500 and they sell within days. All of this new wealth is proving a desperately needed boost to the business in our village.
  3. new2woodwrk How are things in Panama city? I was stationed a Tyndal AFB for 3 years back in the late 60's. Lots of great memories. Thanks for the tip on the Evapo-rust
  4. Ray probably not helpful, but I still have my Delta Unisaw since 1997 decent fence. But at some point I may change it to a biesemeyer fence which is probably more than what I paid for my saw. Didn't you move to TN? Your best bet may be to wait for a CR list find. It would a shame to invest in a lesser saw and still not be happy.
  5. So the ? is who designed the pattern for the bowl that Jerrel did. Image on page 8 of the recent SSWWC magazine.
  6. Steve and his family are in our prayers. He is unique to this hobby, I can't even begin to imagine home many people started this hobby with Steve's patterns.
  7. "Trained a Wife" you guys do live on the edge!
  8. Kevin, I suggest doing a trial, most are free, with any new software to see if you like it. Lightburn has a 30 day trail that they kindly extended as my initial control board was not compatible with it.
  9. I have a NEJE 7w with a master 2 main board that allows me to use GRBL, I also use Lightburn software that gives me much more control. Laser power certainly comes into play as you can move faster with more power and get the same results. but the type of file that you input also has a lot to do with it.
  10. OMG I can't imagine pain worse than a kidney stone, having had three of them. Feel better.!
  11. Bill Wilson, I have been in a few shows (not recent)where people were selling laser cut ornaments and I seriously kicked their buts in sales. They were selling some for 2-3 $ mine were 10 -12$ and nicely presented. At one of the shows the vender came to e at the end of the day offering me his ornament at "wholesale prices" so that I could mark them up and resell. I politely declined and said that I only sell items that I had personally cut on my scroll saw. After I left he talked to my sister, who also had a booth, asking if he had offended me. LOL So I really don't think that laser cut items are a threat, certainly not to me. The bogus copyright Intarsia from overseas on the otherhand is an issue. I like to ask them if they personally made them and if they have permission to use the Disney designs and watch them squirm. If they were in juried shows I would make the organizer aware.
  12. Well said Kevin. It is most definitely a learning curve, especially if you are not comfortable with computers. To me it is just another tool that to enhance my scroll work.
  13. It is nice that we can now discuss laser related work without folks going ballistic. This discussion was risky a couple of years ago. I remember when Bob Duncan did an article in SSWWC and folks were threatening to cancel their subscription.
  14. I started with a stamp many years ago, too big for most of my stuff and very limited. I also bought a good woodburning set from Colewood. The have some vey small ball ends that allow you to write like with a pen. That is great for all but grainy woods with different densities. I now use a laser "engraver" that allows me to do whatever I want, with any font and size. This name plate is a simple application. I will be signing all of my ornaments this way. Much neater and more uniform than my hand burning efforts. You do have to learn a bit about power and fill etc. I am using Lightburn software which requires that the machine accepts GRBL language. As you can see there is some flare up (burned areas around my letters) this will go away with less power or a light sanding. The photo shows these darker areas but in reality it is not obvious on the actual piece? In the font example I used too much power. The large one and the numbers are filled, the others are just outlined. I went from 10 mm to 1mm
  15. Take a picture of the edge. But that is real crappy wood. But I would suggest stacking at least 3 layers. On the Olson 2/0 reverse the gap between the tooth direction change really tares at the wood. I buy my baltic birch from a local wholesale supplier in full sheets.
  16. Diamond impregnated wire, but it will require cooling. The grit will get into everything and I would not do it on my scroll saw.
  17. ALL wood dust has some health hazard associated with it. http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/
  18. I use a fair amount of it , thin, medium and thick. It is a must have for wood turners. It is great as a pen finish and I recently finished a shift knob for my car. I do threat it with respect, not only the glue aspect but also the fumes are not healthy. When I am done with my CA glue I just squeeze the bottle while upright into a paper towel to make sure there is no residue in the nozzle. I also have a pin vise with a tiny drill bit to open it if need be.
  19. Looks like you will need a second saw!
  20. Regarding store inventory, it really comes down to management.
  21. From my understanding the best way to flaten a board is the Jointer, then the planer. I have had a Sand flea since 2005, absolutely love it. But not for a larger or longer board. I have not seen any adds for it in a while?
  22. only on cutting boards
  23. Dremel makes a small chuck that replaces the annoying collets. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-Multi-Pro-Tool-Chuck/1002626660
  24. I don't cut anything that is not fun or appeals to me. But the Segmented gnomes (Bruce Worthington design)that I made really put a smile on my face.
  25. Baggetta, love the design, especially the wheels.
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