Rolf
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Everything posted by Rolf
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Fires? Fume extraction would be my biggest concern. Cutting the gears for a wooden clock with a laser, wheres the challenge in that. Scrolling precision gears was the most fun on all three of my clocks.
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Kevin have a look at "Lightburn" software also. Unfortunately I can't use it with my "Toy" laser. I just looked up what the actual power on my 7 Watt laser is. 2.5 W blue laser, that is why it is only good for engraving, which is what I wanted.
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Kevin nice to know that the dedicated spindle is so much quieter. I bought a small desktop laser KKmoon master 7W , the ratings on these laser is a bit misleading. The 7w is not the actual power of the laser it is the power that it consumes. It was under $200, if I were to buy it again I would still buy this style but a different brand. for those of you who understand G code not all of these lasers accept it. Mine has a proprietary controller which limits certain things that you can control. You want it to support laserGRBL control software. Ortur brand does. I did not do my homework and did a impulse buy. I know better. But it does what I need it to do. It will do a 150 mm x 150 mm area (~6 x 6)
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THANK's Kevin!, I am fortunate that I don't have anymore space, because your short video makes me twitchy. What a great solution, removing the tedium of something basic to free up more time for the important and enjoyable scrolling parts. Remind me, what CNC router did you end up buying, and what software are you using? Regarding signing your work, the majority of mine will now be signed using my Laser engraver (not a cutter, not enough power for that) It is no different from using a hot stamp but I can easily make the signature as small or large as I want.
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I would not attempt to glue sandpaper to a 2/0 Olson blade My time and projects are more precious than a worn blade, so if in doubt I toss it. I won't risk trashing some delicate fretwork by pushing a dull blade.
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Gonzo you bend them and they don't break? Bad Bob what a great idea!!!
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Where are you thinking of going?
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I re-saw all the time and I have A delta 28-475X that I added the riser to many years ago. I am surprised that you found a riser. I frequently cut up to 12". It has a 1.5 HP. Of course the alignment is critical. How much more is the Delta unit? It might be worth the extra so that you don't have to mess with it. If you don't get the alignment right by drilling the holes off location you have just wasted your $90 investment. Just comparing pictures of the Delta Vs the one you are looking at the pin locations look the same. What is their return policy if it doesn't fit?
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I am amazed that they allowed the market to open. You are definitely in a beautiful area. How close to the beaches do you live? The ocean and bays in our area have always been my therapy. That lake would be perfect for a fleet of RC sailboats. Our Village marina is still closed, it is being rebuilt not because of Covid. So I haven't even bothered to uncover my boat. Regarding drones we have a local nature photographer with a high end drone. He periodically flies it over our barrier beach and the new inlet that was opened during Sandy. The quality of the images are amazing. They definitely are a great resource.
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Randy thanks for the reminder! I will certainly order one. What is your current source? Also what tooth count and blade width are you running?
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It is a Delta 28-475X, I bought it when a local Woodworkers Warehouse store went out of business. It has 1.5 HP motor. I am not sure you can get the risers anymore. But mine was a very beefy Cast iron piece. I have run a 3/4 inch blade with no issues. Typically I run a 5/8 Infinity resaw blade. RJWEB, it is on page 65 of the summer 2020 issue. The issue with the frog on the cover.
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I have an older Delta 14 Inch with a 6" riser, I added Carter roller guides and a Kreg fence. I tuned it the same way as suggested in the video posted by Hepnerguy. I make sure to have a sharp blade and get no drift. I have cut up to 12" stock. Most of the wood I use is thin so re-sawing has saved me a fortune. I used to plane all of my wood to thickness, wasteful and risky when you get into the 1/8 range. So I now have the Super max 19-38 drum sander for cleaning up the band saw marks and final dimensioning on the thin stuff. I recently did a short article on this for SSWWC. Not so easy to put into writing things that you do on a routine basis.
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The biggest problem with lots of space is you need more tools to fill it.
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Nice shop layout! If it were mine it would be trashed after the first project.
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I love the wood choice! If you decide to do more of this type of work you may want to invest in something a bit beefier than the Dremel. The Fordom tools are nice but I have an old 3/4 horse motor with a flexshaft that I found at a yard sale. It has a chuck on one end that will hold 1/4 shaft burrs etc. But even with the dremel and some https://kutzall.com/collections/burrs you can remove a lot of wood fast.
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They may be different threads. Metric vs imperial. Shipping to the UK is a royal pain. no pun intended. I will no longer ship clock kits to the UK. And the postage when ordering from the UK isn't much better. I am getting killed buying parts for my TVR.
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Pegas does have a 28 TPI 2/0 blade but it has no reverse teeth. Actually a very controllable blade.
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Gonzo I used to buy my Olson blades from Sloans, but they have retired. I am not sure who to go to now for the Olson blades. Ike you are right, the best blade is the one you are comfortable with. In the older days on the SSWWC forum, blade discussions were very dangerous and got very heated. It used to be the Olson vs FD battle. Everyone swore their blade was the best.
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Well said Wayne, I started with Olson and got very comfortable with them as they were the only blades I used for several years. Tried the FD blades a couple of times as my skills improved and could not follow a line especially in the 2/0 range. Now after 16 years I can cut with pretty much any blade with some reasonable precision, but for when I need real fine detail and a gentle approach, I still go to my old comfort level Olson. That said I used the Pegas MGT 1R 13.7 TPI for my last Intarsia project. very small kerf and a fast cut.
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Very nice!, I assume you are using diamond burrs. I am impressed that you did this with a Dremel as it is a rather large tool. If you start to do a lot of this type of work, have a look at the Vortex F5. It is like drawing with a pen or pencil.
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Just keep in mind when you give us information on a blade that you are using also tell us the teeth per inch(TPI) Blade geometry also has a huge impact on how fast and controllable the cut is. I have Olson 2/0 reverse with 28 TPI, cut real slow and very easy to controll, the Pegas modified geometry 2/0 reverse only has 15.4 TPI needless to say it zips through the wood much faster. Practice with any new blade in your arsenal.
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Nice way to start!
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Getting closer, put the motor back in yesterday. Easy with no nose on the car.
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Why go 10"? Spend a bit more and go 14. You know you will need that extra in the future,
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We all have our own methods and sharing them on a forum such as this is really great, as it gives new scrollers ideas and options. Kevin, when I go into my seasonal production mode The nailer is out on my bench. Cutting bits of tape, waiting for the hot glue gun took way too long for me. My first attempt at stack cutting I used double sided tape between each layer, not knowing any better even in the middle. I am sure my neighbors heard me cursing as I tried to separate the stack later. I then went to small tacks in each corner, that I got from my Dad. they were great until I ran out. At that point I bought the pin nailer.
