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Everything posted by Rolf
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Pu them on a piece of plain cardboard when you do the photograph. The newsprint is too busy. Nice work.
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Ray, thanks for the kind comments. The train was the first time that I entered a piece in our clubs annual wood show for judging. We had a guest judge that year, Wes Demarest, he was the photographer for Creative Woodworks and Crafts magazine.The magazine was where I found the pattern. It won my first first place ribbon. So it has a lot of meaning for me. I actually made it as a gift for my brother in law who is a serious train buff.
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Super glue the fretwork scrollers best friend. We have all had one of those projects. Wood selection is critical. At one of Fox Chapels last open house events I did a presentation on woods and wood movement, I asked Bob Duncan if he had any samples I could use. He had a magnificent basket (large) cut from red Oak, A wood that I never use for fretwork. this piece was so twisted and parts were literally falling off due to the humidity and temp changes. You could not move it without something breaking. It was a heartbreaking thing to see.
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I don't know where you live, but $10 for any of those items is way too low! JMO For the very first picture that you posted, the Christmas Greetings, what paint did you use?
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My backers are very much project dependent. I want them to enhance my project not detract. For fretwork, I spend a lot of time cutting lots of details and I certainly don't want them to be lost in busy grain or background. This Jeff Zaffino design was my first intricate fretwork cut in 2006. I selected the plywood for the grain in the sky area and the plain black backer shows off all my work. When it comes to Intarsia, anything is fair game as long as I feel it enhances what I am trying to do. Lots of intarsia has no exposed backers except for the wall it hangs on. For my most recent piece I used a copy of the painting that it was based on, for the sky and water. So the bottom line is do what you feel shows off your work best for you. One other thing to consider make sure that you can glue your piece to it or if it is not framed.
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Rotating the motor changes the front to back blade motion.
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I have casters on the back legs of my Hawk. With a handle at the front. To move the saw I lift up the front of the saw until the rear wheels touch. when I set it back down the caster wheels do not touch. The handle serves as a place for me to put a scrap bag also.
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Love my 2005 Hawk G4-26. And my new used EX 16 with Pegas clamps. But If I were buying new, it would be the Pegas for the following reasons. 1. Better clamps than all of the other EX clones. 2. Tilting arm VS tilting table, if you do any beveled inlays you will really appreciate that . The Hawk and the Hegner have tilting tables, and yes I have cut a lot of bevel's on them both it takes effort to not push your work down hill. 3. The arm will tilt a full 45 deg both ways (note the dust port under the table needs to be removed to go the full 45 deg to the left (equivalent to right side table down) 4. And you can top and bottom feed without any gimmicks like the Dewalt addons. So all of the best features in one saw + I love the color.
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I also prefer a natural look, but I really dislike the smell of many of the oils plus they never seem to dry completely. i have used liberon finishes on a couple of fretwork projects that was not too bad.
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The clear glass really works well, not sure if a green or blue would enhance or detract from your work. it certainly doesn't hurt to try it.
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My first thought would be to put a "bleeder" valve in the vacuum line between the dust deputy and the vac. keep opening that until the bucket stops collapsing and you still get enough suction where you need it.
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Video showing use of clear shelf liner for mounting patterns
Rolf replied to Iguanadon's topic in General Scroll Sawing
All Charles Hand uses under his projects is the clear shelf liner and his projects are incredibly detailed. -
Video showing use of clear shelf liner for mounting patterns
Rolf replied to Iguanadon's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Great video! I use the Contact brand removable clear. Real easy to remove the pattern on delicate fretwork. Don I very rarely have had any issue with adhesion or pulled fibers. I do pre sand all of my BB to a minimum of 240. Wipe the dust off before attaching the Removable shelf paper. They are all not created equal! And the only time packing tape touches any of my projects is when I am doing compound cutting Never under a pattern. That is some serious inventory! interesting that you spray the entire board. Doesn't the sticky in the waste areas bother you when cutting? Never mind I just read the comments after your video about dusting the board with sawdust. Clever man you are. Could you post the link to the laser. Since I just bought one for engraving. I got the KKmoon master 7000 and before anyone goes nuts Note that I said Engraving NOT cutting. It isn't powerful enough for that. -
I have been using another one of Patrick Roberts programs, the Pattern Wizard, that is what I used to create my Tugboat pattern. He has been very supportive whenever I had any questions.
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WOW! beautiful project. I would do a Satin finish no gloss. I agree with Dan, the finish will help to keep it from being a major dust magnet.
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Judy Gale Roberts https://intarsia.com/collections/scenes-floral/products/i-56-rocky-top
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Question for seyco scroll saw dust collector owners
Rolf replied to Wilson142's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Like Kevin said, lots of ways to split the line. A simple T with three barbed fittings. Even with my Festool vac running at its lowest speed the biggest noise I get is at the nozzles themselves. Especially now that I put a new bag in my vac. So my point, even if you get the vacuum real quiet the main noise will be right in front of your face at the nozzle or hose end. -
On my first clock I just cut out the numbers on the scroll saw. On the flying pendulum clock I did a beveled inlay. My mistake was using aspen for the numbers, which was way too soft. Holly would have been a much better choice. For me to say that was a challenging inlay is a bit of an understatement.
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planeur, I like his sanding jig design. The one I made was a quick "down and dirty" as I didn't have a lot of time to build the clock for the article. If I do another I will certainly build something like this jig. Ray, all clocks have their challenges, I have built three. The first was a weight and pendulum driven, I hung it on the dining room wall, the other side of it is our bedroom. My wife came in and said to come listen to the clock. the wall was acting like an amplifier. The clock went to Fox Chapels office. The Second clock was the "Flying Pendulum" clock, it is spring powered. A fascinating clock to watch but a challenge to build. The third was the "Electromagnetic clock. it is battery powered. and the easiest to build in my opinion as the gears don't mesh. But it also has some challenging bits. They all require patience and precision. But having said that, the first time you see one you built running is incredibly satisfying.
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That is a pretty rough cut and would require a lot of cleanup but is perfect for that application.. His creativity is very impressive. I use the Olson 2/0 reverse 28 TPI for all of my precise cuts. It is a slow cutting blade making it very controllable. I have also recently used the Pegas 28 TPI blade with no reverse teeth. it cuts faster bout leaves a bit of fuzz on the bottom side that I gently take off with a mop.
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I built my first clock back in 2013 It was a Brian Law clock that SSWWC magazine asked me to make. Most important is of course the precise location of the center hole. I drew a circle about 1/8 outside the top of the teeth. I then cut the teeth gullets. I found this process eliminated the chipping of the plywood tooth ends. I made a Jig for my disk sander. Tips were all precisely centered on the center of the gear. the article was in the Summer issue of SSWWC.
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I would have modified the design to accommodate the additional thickness. Since the 1/2 inch material is probably for the frame. For this type of thickness changes on smaller pieces, I agree with everyone else I would not run plywood through my planer. I am fortunate to have a Supermax 19-38 drum sander with a digital readout.
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You guys do know your all very sick people!
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If you want the aroma of cow turd, cut some fresh sycamore.
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That style of work will not work in the majority of the homes in my area. I have cut lots of things like this mostly as a test cutter, none of it will ever hang in my house. I am 71 but more modern designs appeal to my wife's and my taste. People in my area will pay thousands of dollars for a few strips of toilet paper with paint dribbled on it. I am serious about that. Intarsia and contemporary wood furniture also sells. Check out this web site that sells work by a local artist Dave Ebner who will be giving me his cutoffs. https://www.incollect.com/artists/david-ebner I have several friends that have one of his Scallion coat racks in their houses. One of those friends also has several pieces of his furniture. Not in my budget.
