Rolf

First I want to thank Scott and Bushton for jumping on getting this issue resolved. I wish I lived closer if they let me I would volunteer with final QA. Tap drill size is also dependent on material to be taped. You don't want a sloppy thread in aluminum. This chart gives some good information. https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/TapDrillSizes.pdf The comment about the rear cam lever facing forward or back is interesting. I run my G4 with it facing towards the back because the outer castings come up higher so with the cam lever facing forward the lever would on occasion move a bit and tap against the frame. So I would get this light ticking that drove me nuts . But I will swing it back forward and do a vibration test, not that I have much. On another note After 12 years of hard labor I replaced a part on my saw. The original pitman arm (plastic) has what looks like a carbon or graphite bushing at the top and a ball bearing where it attaches to the motor. I have never lubed it at the bushing. I bought a new one at one of the open houses and it has an Oillite bronze bushing. The old one had just a few thousandths of an inch play, The difference is amazing. GONZO Finding machinists and Tool makers is getting to be very difficult in our area. I managed a small experimental machine shop for ~20 years. My dad was an old world German tool maker and he passed on a few skills. The skills are not taught anywhere and no apprentice programs exist. When the current staff retires it will be a real problem.

It is well known that I am a huge supporter of Hawk saws, that said. My feelings regarding saws or anything for that matter manufactured by a small company like Hawk. Should be thoroughly inspected and tested before shipping. If the saw was thrown out of adjustment during shipping I would expect to see a damaged container. Although I received a $500K piece of equipment at work that was supposed to have worked when it left the factory that was missing critical parts, supposedly fell off in shipping. It was in big wooden crate (clear pine that ended up in my workshop) It took me a year to debug it, field service guy was a dud. Since many of the new saws on the market are getting up there in the price range this is Hawks golden opportunity to get back into the thick of things regarding sales. They can not afford having these kind of issues. I hope they do right by you and that this is a one time occurrence.

As I said on the SSWWC forum, that is a very nice setup. What grits are you using? If I remember correctly you got a really good deal on that sander. Did you get the dust collector with it? Hawkey, there is no fun in sanding JMO. When I first bought my 19-38 Supermax sander I used 80 for roughing (note never try to remove paint, loads up the paper instantly) and the 220 for fine sanding. I have just switched to 150 for the fine and 50 for the rough stuff dimensioning. The 220 is relegated for pre-sanding my baltic birch ply.

get one of the free standing AC units that has a vent tube to the outside. It has washable filter.

How exciting, just be patient as it will be a very different experience from what you are used to. Could you post a closeup of the top clamp and arm holder, I am very curious about what Bushton has done there.

I always run the tape with the grain, not because of lifting but that way I know my wood orientation when I stack and cant see the back anymore. Very rarely do I experience any grain lifting. All of my fretwork is pre-sanded to 220.

I cut however the pattern dictates, but mostly like Denny, It is more determined by the blade. Most blade teeth have a burr on the right side (teeth facing you) I keep the non-waste to the left or smooth side. In reality I can't see a major difference in the quality of cut. I try to be consistent with which side of the line I cut on as it does come into play when doing intarsia.

I never do less than 3 when I use 1/8 BB (3mm) Srappile I don't see the link to The US rep for Volker Arnold. Years ago it was Tom Sevy I think now it is his son in law. It is easier to go to him unless you can read German. I go directly to Volker, he has a shop in Dresden Germany right next to where my Mom grew up. Small world it is.

One of my favorites http://www.va-holzkunst.de/ Volker Arnold.

The only time I get this effect on one of my Hawk clamps is repeated over tightening causing this distortion.

Wow Randy, that is new to me, I had no idea that they were different colors or re-branded.

You do nice work! glad your sales have been good.

The noise of the shop vac will probably get you thrown out faster than the dust. You should get lots of ideas here. I have a basement shop and no dust collection on my scrollsaw. But I do have a central dust collection system for everything else. Recently bought a Festool midi vac, it is very quiet and may connect it to my scroll saw.

Have to agree with you Randy. I did not think that her review was harsh at all. She knew what she wanted and expected certain things that the HF saw could not provide. There is no doubt that many magnificent projects have been created with the HF saws and they have their place just not in my shop. My first project that had several interior cuts was done on an old Craftsman that I inherited from my father. It took pinless blades but required a couple of tools to release the blade. 1. Unscrew tension knob, 2. Release blade using tools 3. feed blade through the hole. 4. clamp blade 5 retension. This took a couple of minutes for a 15 second cut then repeat. I can't imagine that the HF saw is much better. I started doing lots of fret work so I immediately realized that this was not going to work for me. My wife bought me a Delta SS350 for my BD $180 with stand. It literally took seconds for a blade change. A year later I bought the Hawk G4 26 and never looked back. I want to spend my time scrolling not fiddling with poor clamps etc.

A lot of good deals! Randy are you messing with us or did you really buy the BM26? I still regret not taking Nilus up on the deal he was trying to give me at one of the open houses on one of the new BM models. I just didn't have the room in my Jeep and we still had a lot of traveling to do.

Xyron machine is what I use. I have the 9" and the 5". buy it with a 50% coupon from Micheals. It dry laminates adhesive to the back of the pattern and can be removable or permanent. I still use the blue tape under it.

Mcafee also flagged it.

Jim I missed your comment the first time regarding some comments supporting the SSWWC magazine. And I really liked your reply. We need to present both sides fairly, especially to the new folks joining this forum so that they can form their own opinions. And with the advertisements they are great resource for the newbies. Those of us more seasoned scrollers already have our list of favorites.

How about taking it to a machine shop and having a heli coil installed.

This might be worth a look for this price http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gyros-0-in-to-0-039-in-Capacity-Mini-Adaptor-Chuck-45-01801/204585945?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|PLA|D25T|PowerTools&gclid=Cj0KEQjwkN3KBRCu2fWmy9LLqN4BEiQANP9-WutoYOP54LaFP-wrPhiiRJqvFNwGluJNxVqMvjfrQvIaAmem8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds http://www.micromark.com/mini-powertool/machine-tools?page=3 Scott I never liked running my big drill press at max speeds. The recommended speed for a 1/16 drill in hard wood is 3000rpm the #70 that I use for real fine work should spin even faster. I Have the Micro Mark drill press and run it @4500 http://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-3-Speed-Mini-Drill-Press

Years ago some of the small chucks from Mikes workshop had a real problem with wobble. I do wonder what Contractor quality is. I expect them to run true.

Tony I will not suggest you calm down. I also get frustrated when I want or need something so I like sites that indicate their stock levels. I have had items that were discontinued by the manufacturers that were needed for some of my regular sales, I will look for other suppliers if I need to. This shop is owned by a friend maybe he has what you need. http://www.thewoodturningstore.com/

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EAZYPOWER-CORP-1-8-Inch-Mini-Keyless-Chuck/46658808?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=2419&adid=22222222227035151909&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=75569886994&wl4=pla-175625297074&wl5=9051878&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113134491&wl11=online&wl12=46658808&wl13=&veh=sem Just google mini drill chucks. Not all are created equal some of them have significant runout.

Really? I am a big supporter of Hawk saws but now I think I have heard it all. I look forward to your review of the saw.

I agree Denny, it is fun to see friends work in the magazine. It would be even more fun to meet and see it in person.