I have already mounted a couple of the letters. The capitals are about 2 3/4" and the lower case 1 1/2" I picked up the Titebond III this morning and applied it with a toothpick. I applied just enough so there was a tiny amount of bleed out. It is now 3 PM and the glue is dried clear and can't be seen. I'll allow it to dry 24 hours. Thank you for the suggestion. I don't remember the last time I saw Weldbond.
Hi Bill, I do exactly what you do. Sometimes. Every so often I think I can make this corner, no problem and I bind the blade. I was cutting 1/2" oak with a #7 FD Ultra reverse. Onsofter or thinner woods I do not have a problem.
I've just finished cutting a family name from oak and wish to adhere it to an oak background. What is the best way to do this. What kind of adhesive, brads or what. It will placed on the outside of my daughter's home. While it will be outside it will be under a covered entrance. The letters will be painted black. What shall I use for a weather resistance finish?
Am I the only person that does not care for reverse blades? I understand the reason for them. I'm cutting a series of letters from 1/2" oak. Occasionally the piece will buck to high heaven and scare the pee doodlers out of me. I know it happens because I've put the blade in a bind. Still don't like it. Happens when I make too aggressive a turn. I find they work OK for me on softer and thinner woods.
I'm guessing the blade clamp is aluminum. Aluminum is relatively soft and the screw or bolt used to tighten the blade needs to be a course thread like 10-24 but it is probably metric.