Blaughn
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Everything posted by Blaughn
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Welcome to the Village, Charlie! Bruce Minneapolis
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I recently completed a piece in cherry where I wanted the backer board to be flat black behind the lettering. I cut the luan plywood to size, masked off a 1/2" wide area around the edge and then sprayed the middle section with flat black enamel. I then glued the cherry and clamped it flat using only the peripheral area. When this was thoroughly dry, I unclamped and finished the cherry. I added 2 wood screws on the back at the left and right centered between the top and bottom as insurance.
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Hi Eddie: Welcome to the Village from snowy, cold Minnesota. Your glueing question depends on the material used. If gluing natural wood to plywood, I like to use some mechanical fasteners to compensate for expansion of the natural wood vs plywood. In that case, I mask the borders of the ply and apply just enough Titebond to make the bond without squeeze-out. I then use 2 mechanical fasteners on either end of the natural wood located in the middle of the piece as "insurance: against glue-joint failure. In the case of your cross, even if your backer board is plywood, the fretwork will permit movement of your cross. I would do the gluing before finishing in that particular piece.
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Welcome to the Village from Minneapolis, Minnesota!!
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Finishing Cherry.....My first time working with Cherry..
Blaughn replied to Scrolling Steve's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I use 2 coats of Watco Danish oil, let it dry overnight and then 2 coats of Watco Wipe-on Poly. While wearing latex gloves, I hand rub the second coat of poly to get a soft sheen.
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Scrolling less than a year, need as much help as I can get!
Blaughn replied to UncleApple's topic in Introductions
Welcome to the Village, Jeff. There are a lot of talented, patient and helpful folks here. Bruce Minnesota -
I have had a similar problem in the past. When I was learning to make sharp turns, I over did the pressure on the back side of the blade to make sharp turns and the blade would develop a similar bend.
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Hi Stevan: Welcome to the Village. This is the friendliest way to shorten the learning curve and to learn from others' mistakes. No question too silly. Ask away and enjoy the company. Bruce
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Welcome to the village from Minnesota. I am a son of one raised in "The sault" before he immigrating to the US before WWII. His sisters remained in Canada and I spent many summers visiting and enjoying "the sault", Peterborough and Stony lake - a second home to me. You will find the Village to be an extremely helpful, welcoming and a wealth of knowledge offered generously. Bruce
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Welcome to the Village. You will find on this site generations of lessons learned the hard way so you don't have to. No question too dumb, and everyone here seems to remember they were once where you are. Bruce
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Welcome to the Village, Peregrine! From that list I would have to lean toward the Hegnor or the Jet (if it is the model based heavily on the Excalibur). My motto is to buy the best once versus the cheaper one twice. Bruce
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Welcome to the Village!! Bruce
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That is interesting. My issue doesn't seem to extend beyond the fingers of the hold-down hand and if I curve my fingers and use my finger tips to hole the work piece down it seems to solve it for me. I have no doubt that I am using too much pressure to hole the work piece down and over time, I will lighten my touch. Good luck with your battle. That is well beyond my minor discomfort. Bruce
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After working non-stop for several hours I find that the fingers on my "hold-down hand" (generally my left hand) refuse to work normally for several moments. I have found that if I keep the fingers of the hold-down hand flexed and use my fingertips to hold the work down - I avoid this rather disturbing feeling. Just curious: Am I alone in this "disorder"?!!!!! Bruce
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Good job. Your next assignment is to tell her to join Scroll Saw Village. Bruce
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Welcome to the Village, Bernie!!
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I know of a woman in Northern California who had a Excalibur still in the original crate - never used. If you would like, I can check to see if she still has it.... Bruce
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When I retired last January, I decided to replace the cheap 1/8" pegboard with 1/4" top grade stuff and then install a Grizzly 0443 Cyclone dust collection system. First you move every tool from its familiar place, spend half your time looking for the tool that isn't where it used to be, put the tools on the new pegboard then take 1/3 down again to route the dust collection ductwork. It is like changing the tire on a moving car. The DC system is mostly functional but hooking it up to the miter saw, lathe and scroll saw are still a work in progress. I really love the floor sweeps, though. My grand kids love to sweep the floor just to watch it disappear. Bruce
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Wow. That is incredibly detailed. Nice work!!! Bruce
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My pilot drills start at a #65 and up. The number 60 is the one I use most. I usually place my holes next to the line but I am a rookie. There are more experienced scrollers who encourage placement away from the line (when possible) and then cutting to the line with a sharp turn. This is to give a cleaner finish when completing the cut. Bruce
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Welcome to the Village! Bruce
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Welcome to the Village. The use of a scroll saw requires a bit of practice and finesse. You will find the free practice patterns like these: http://www.scrollsawgoodies.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/TCF0003_Practice.pdf will be a good investment of your time and will help to master the saw. Bruce
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Welcome to the Village. You will find it to be a goldmine of friendliness and support. Bruce
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Welcome to the Village, Tabby. This is the place to search for answers to your questions and the place to ask the questions for which you can't find answers. You will love the friendliness, patience and the breadth of knowledge you find here. Bruce
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No one on their death bed ever spoke the words: "I wish I had spent less time with my kids and grand kids."
