JOE_M

I started with 3M photo mount, then nobody nearby was selling it so I tried every spray glue hobby lobby has and ended up sticking (no pun intended) with 3M 45 and 3M 77. I've had no trouble with either. I use them to glue the paper to the wood for cutting out patterns, and for gluing glossy photos to the top of the puzzle box.

That's odd, all my blades are FD - I use the small "puzzle" ones and have rarely broken one in use. I use them until I can feel they're dull because it's harder to turn the wood.

I wouldn't give up so quickly on the travel. New venues = new potential customers.

looks good.

Can you post a pic? I doubt it's a left-hand thread, not for something that simple - they're usually reserved for bigger things like holding chucks to hand drills. It may have loctite on it although a company that skips grease on bearings probably isn't going to take the extra 2 seconds to squeeze a bit of loctite on a screw either. Is that all that's busted is the adjustment knob?

Can you stack-cut vinyl or is it too brittle?

Good luck tomorrow!

ocooch must get this a lot because they explain in their FAQ that it happens, and how to fix it: http://www.ocoochhardwoods.com/care_of_thin_wood.php

http://www.atompoppopper.com/contact-us and: http://www.quincraftproducts.com/contact-us

Thanks. My only "newsstands" are HD and Lowes. We lost our last real bookstore over a year ago (and Horror Freight just moved into their old building.) My Lowes had the Summer issue still out on Monday when I was in there, I'll look again next time I run into town.

The heart is African Mahogany (looks/cuts like Luan, but at twice the price???) The box part is 1.75" deep. The butterfly is cherry with a eucalyptus lid, the box part of that one is 1" deep. Both patterns from a book (Custom Wooden Boxes on the Scrollsaw). It's a good book, but those were the only two patterns that I felt like making. The christmas stocking (my pattern) is Bubinga with a little bit of maple on top. The box part is 1.75" deep. It will hold a lot of candy canes during the holidays and then will be used to store some fretwork ornaments I made last year.

Don't know about "we" but "he" sure can :

Is that issue on newsstands yet, or just early delivery to subscribers?

For regular blades, the bigger the # also means the fatter the line cut out, so if you're doing something like those dogs with the 3 toes on each foot, the line you cut between each toe will be bigger if you use a bigger # blade. I like a thin blade but I cut some angel ornaments out once with a #1 and the lines that were supposed to simulate the flowing of the wings/dress were so thin they didn't look right. Bigger blades cut straight lines easier, smaller blades can turn easier. Higher TPI gives a cleaner cut in thinner woods - just like a bandsaw blade or a handsaw, you want teeth in the wood at all times, not tooth or half a tooth. Reverse teeth are supposed to help prevent tearout on the bottom, especially if you're using plywood, but if you're cutting fat stuff they might not clear all the dust out and you could end up burning the wood. Skip tooth are like regular blades with every other tooth missing, they're supposed to stay cooler longer. If you're cutting hard exotics or metal inlay then Flying Dutchman makes a "polar" blade that works good, other makers probably do too. Olson has their chart, if you find the page for Flying Dutchman they describe what each type of their blades is supposed to do.

I don't sign, but then I don't sell. I do have a branding iron that say "handcrafted by Joe" - got it as a gift years ago and I use it occasionally on much larger items. You can get one made with tiny initials. If you've got the steady hands, the colored fine-line sharpies write very cleanly on a finished surface and you can choose a color that blends in as much or little as you want.

If you decide to do it like the pic, just cut the michigan background as one piece for the back layer with the connection between the mitten and the UP being hidden behind the M, cut the M separately and place it on top:

Because a box has four patterns - lid top, lid rim, box walls, and box bottom. It just seems messy to post four different images for one pattern. And size matters so I can't just take irfanview and cram them all onto one page, because then the pieces won't fit together (or they'll fit together but the box sides will be 1/100000" thick.

http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com/

My last "colored" pieces used a few different methods. Some were acrylic paint, with the brush dipped in water first to thin. It sucked. The grain still showed, which was nice, but it was a PIA making sure paint didn't drip into the crevasses and dry as big ugly clumps. I also used milk paint, thinned. Milk paint stinks - it smells disgusting and dries flat so it needed a clear-coat which was even more of a PIA. I'll only use it again if I make some period piece that requires it. I used some "wood dyes" from Hobby Lobby. They went on like regular stains would but with colors like "navy blue" and "barn red" instead of "dark mahogany" or "Colonial maple". Of the 3, this was the easiest but it still needed a clear coat to shine. I've used aniline dyes in the past - I've got Transfast on the shelf, they're a powder and they make some nice very vivid colors. But they have to be mixed with HOT water, they do raise the grain, and if you don't follow the instructions for mixing it you will end up with some ugly splotching. They also color your fingers quite nicely if you don't wear gloves. It's a nice option if you've got time to pre-raise/re-sand the grain.

I did try it, got stuck on the very first screen, hence the question.

I've got a few box patterns I made that I'd like to share. They're in pdf format, four pages each (5 if I include instructions.) Can I upload multi-page pdf patterns?

It's a nice idea but if they're for sale you might consider a different style screw - something that sits flush like a panhead or round. Or maybe put a chamfer around the edge of the hole in the metal belt part, if it's thick enough, so that the taper-head sits flush.

Good luck. Are your puzzles BBQ-Sauce proofed?

Sounds like great reasoning. I'll bet there are just as many people who don't know how to do a simple car tune-up. Let's cut the auto manufacturers some slack and let them ship cars that are "almost" ready to go, just need fitted to the driver. After we drive that brand new car off the lot we can spend the next day with a Chilton's manual re-gapping spark plugs, tightening the belt, adjusting toe-in/out on the alignment. Sure that maintenance shouldn't need done for another 60-100K miles, but if we learn how to do it now...

I can throw one together in a few minutes if you choose a font and maybe a little more info on the "sort of design". Is it a cow farm, a chicken farm, funny farm....