JOE_M
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Everything posted by JOE_M
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I like it warmer so I usually just open windows on opposite sides and let the breeze go to work. But if it gets too bad I have a portable AC. I'm not a big fan of them because of the noise and the one I have is a little undersized for my workshop. If you're worried about dust, just stick it by the cleanest window to vent. If the filter clogs too fast for you (they're washable) then you can go to Home Depot and buy their cheapest 16x20x1 HVAC filter and cut it into smaller parts and just tape it on the back on top of the air inlet. That's what I did when I was doing the drywall installation in 100+ heat. It was the only way I had to keep the mud from setting too fast in the heat.
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New puzzle maker with a need for advice!
JOE_M replied to Joe Peacock's topic in General Scroll Sawing
If it's doing that on thick stuff then I dunno. If it's doing that on thin stuff then try adding a sacrificial backer board. You'll find the puzzle blade cuts a bit slower, giving you more time to do all the pivoting you want to do. -
I like them in both sizes. Have you considered a stand-alone model with a slightly curved stem? Maybe something out of cedar or redwood that could be jammed into the ground.
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Are you ready? Did you clear out a space in the workshop for it? Rewire the shop yet? You do realize that it's made in Kansas. It won't work with a normal 110v outlet - you need to hook it up to a windmill - I'm pretty sure I read that on their FAQ page.
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hobby lobby. They have absolutely nothing for hobbies, but when it comes to crafts they have every type of paper ever made. 271 shades of red in flat, semi-gloss, gloss, hi-gloss, glitter, fluorescent. Card stock, extra thin stuff, foam backed, foil... And while you're there, pick up some plastic flowers for your spouse. They've got 5 aisles devoted just to plastic flowers.
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OK. I've got a can of shellac in the workshop and I'm pretty sure I have an industrial sized can of denatured alcohol in the shed. I'll give it a try tomorrow on a penguin that's got white acrylic, ebony stain and blue dye. thanks Joe.
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Can shellac be dipped when thinned?
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Yes, I've got rattle cans, HVLP and other instruments of destruction but the pieces are small with many crooks and nannies. Spraying would be a big pain and it would take multiple sessions to get each piece (I think there's about 120 pieces total.). I'd really rather just dip, shake, set aside to dry or - if I had to - dip, spray off excess with the air compressor, set aside to dry. I'm not too worried about the finish tinting the colors - they're puzzles for a 4 year old and I don't think she knows the difference between blue-green and cerulean, or what the correct shade of orange is for a giraffe.
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I made a bunch (20ish) of animal puzzles from a book, each one has 4-8 pieces and is approximately the size of the dog puzzles that all the cool kids are doing these days. I need to apply a clear finish and because there are so many nooks and crannies on the sides I want to try that dipping thing that some of you have mentioned where you dip it in a vat, shake it off, and set it aside to dry for a while. But here's the kicker - all the pieces are colored. Some with milk paint, some with regular stain, and some with water based wood dyes and yet others with watered down acrylic paint. So what's a decent clear coat to dip in that will adhere to the wood but won't dissolve any of the colors? thanks Joe.
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Depends on how much sugar I had on my cheerios. Clockwise, counterclockwise, whatever feels good at the time.
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Well you waited for the wheat harvest, you might as well wait a bit longer for the pony express to deliver it.
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Here's an old review. Note the price in her picture (from 2014). http://www.theprojectlady.com/2014/10/dewalt-vs-harbor-freight-scroll-saw.html
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It told me postage 110 but I don't do ebay so maybe it was just guessing off whatever zipcode my ISP says I'm at.
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That postage bumps the price up a bit.
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I measured the thumbscrew with a metric micrometer and it says 5.84mm. I measured with a real micrometer and got .230", which is, in metric, either 5.84mm or 36 degrees Celsius - my math is a bit fuzzy on that one. The metric thread gauge says it's a pitch of 1. Would it be possible for you to get a 6mm tap, retap the holes, and replace your thumbscrew with something made from a 6mm bolt or even a 6mm thumbscrew if they sell them locally? There might even be room for 7mm if that's a commonly available size for you. Another option - the entire piece looks like a cheap piece of cast tinfoil, but it's just a cube of metal with four holes and a couple of slots. Anyone with a hobby mill could knock out a quality replacement in aluminum in an afternoon and you could tap it for whatever size screw you want.
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I like the part where it says "USA and/or Imported." I think that's fancy sales-talk for "Might be made in America, might be made in Taiwan, China, Germany or Cleveland. We don't really know, they just showed up in our warehouse one day and the boss said we gotta sell them now to make room for the 2018 models." But wait, don't despair. They say it is "contractor quality." I wonder what that means. Let's try google. Hmm, that's a rather odd thing to brag about when selling a product.
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If you want to use your existing drill press you can pick up a pin chuck like this: http://www.industrialboys.com/columnar.aspx?cat_id=9269&category_site=DTAP You put the drill bit in the pin chuck, and mount the pin chuck in your drill press' chuck.
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The colors really make it come to life. Maybe someday you can shoot a quick video of your paint setup?
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It's a good deal if it works, but it doesn't look like it's been used. I wonder if he cleaned it up before listing, or if he's got a maid coming in daily to clean his shop. I find it hard to trust a workshop with no sawdust anywhere. Maybe you'll get lucky and he just bought a bunch of tools because he thought he was into woodworking but then realized he was into something else.
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Unless it's powered by hamsters, the only 3 specs to worry about in a drill are: 1. How deep is it - what's the biggest board you can cut to the center of? Is that enough for what you plan on using it for? 2. How much spindle travel is there - is it enough to drill a hole through the fattest board you'd want to drill a hole through? And the most important, for me: 3. How much is the runout? If you use a 1/4" drill do you get a 1/4" hole? The larger the runout the harder it is to use very small bits without them breaking. Easiest way to test is to take a long thin piece of drill rod or regular bit if you don't have any drill rod, chuck it up and turn the drill on full speed and just look at how much wobble there is.
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I use some slightly more expensive software for my cnc router (Vectric V-Carve) it does image tracing to vector and a lot more. But I often find myself just pulling up inkscape (free) and it takes about 20 seconds to load an image, hit Path -Trace Bitmap - OK, delete original image and save the trace.
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You mention that it takes both style blades. Are you using pinless and have you tried using just a slightly larger drill bit? A bigger hole, if there's room, would give you more wiggle room. And here's a technique that might help (I haven'tused the dremel, don't know how much room you've got.) Put the wood down on the table towards you, in front of the blade holder. Drop the blade in the hole. It will bottom out on the table. Lightly hold the blade with a couple fingers and push the wood and blade back so the blade is under the holder. When it gets to where the hole is you will be able to push it through the rest of the way. Then you connect it on top/bottom or bottom/top whichever your style is. (Hope that makes sense. It does in my head, but then a lot of stuff sounds good in my head and then I open my mouth and get all sorts of weird looks.)
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Yes, the map says I'm in Azerbaijan but I'm really in Whetstone AZ- about 60 miles south of Tucson, 10 miles north of Fort Huachuca. Joe. Edit: If your garage is built for it you can install a solar powered gable fan that will help with the heat but not raise your electric bill.
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That's a great deal on the wood.
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Do you mean 16/32? That's about what I paid for my used one a few years ago. They're a great help if you have a constant need for extra thin stock. I bought a kit from Grizzly that converted it to hook & loop so I can switch very quickly between 80 grit for quick stock removal, and 120 for final smoothing.
