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BadBob

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Everything posted by BadBob

  1. Note all the narrow parts, primarily the tails. They are prone to breaking when made from solid wood.
  2. In the photos, I see what may be voids.
  3. XFasten Double Sided Woodworking Tape works well for me, and it is designed to be used on wood. It doesn't leave any residue and is easy to remove.
  4. In this case, plywood was the only option. There was no way to align the grain so none of the pieces would be easy to break. I only brought it up because the difference was so dramatic.
  5. When the blade is removed and the end is bent, I'm sure they're applying significant pressure to the clamp.
  6. I have cut a few hundred puzzles from solid wood, mostly poplar and pine. About a week ago, I had a puzzle to make with some fragile parts that cried out for plywood. I cut it from 3/4-inch Baltic Birch plywood. Not only did it fix the breakage problem, but making the puzzle from Baltic Birch plywood was much easier than with any of the woods I had previously used. The cuts were almost glassy smooth, and very little sanding was required. I am considering making this my go-to material for puzzles.
  7. Shipping wood is not cheap, no matter where you buy it.
  8. I have seen videos where the scroller tightened the clamp with a tool.
  9. BadBob

    Ho, Ho, ho

    I have a lot of these little spring clamps. They would probably clamp your ornament.
  10. The drying rack looks like a good idea. I usually hang mine on the bottom of wire shelves using bent pieces of copper wire. The copper wire bends easily and adapts to whatever I need to hang. I also use it for dipping, bending it so it will not come off.
  11. I noticed that too.
  12. The light colored wood should stand out just fine. If you paint them white, they will look like plastic.
  13. Try using Grok to search. Be sure to frame your question precisely. Otherwise, it will guess at what you want.
  14. I have made a good bit of items from drawer sides.
  15. I never clean my blades, and I've never had an issue with them slipping on any of the scroll saws I have owned. I keep spare parts for my EX-21 and Pegas saws for several years and have never had to replace them. My saw is not running every day, so maybe I am not working it hard enough.
  16. Welcome, I used a similar scroll saw for years. The only reason I got rid of it was that I discovered the EX-21 and easy, fast blade changes.
  17. I cut 283 of these from 1/2-inch black limba and hand-finished (brushed) them with clear shellac. 275 are sold, and the rest are gifts.
  18. I was thinking the same thing.
  19. Sometimes a bit-mapped image will have elements in the background that you can't see, which is causing the problem. Colors can also cause a problem. The lines in the image may look black on your screen, but may actually be composed of multiple colored pixels. Editing with Gimp is the fix for both of these issues.
  20. I started with a cast-iron 16-inch AMT scroll saw 40+ years ago. It cut great and very smooth, but changing the blades was a pain. Anything with internal cuts took forever. For a while, I had an older Hawk and an Excalibur EX-21 (Taiwan) in the shop. I did a test using the same blade and the same wood on all three saws. The AMT saw made smoother cuts than any of the other two by a large margin. However, the ease of blade changes and the fixed table with a tilting head won out. Today I have both my old EX-21 and a Pegas saw. I gave the AMT away and sold the Hawk.
  21. Make your errors look like part of the design.
  22. I have tried several things to hold my compound cuts. So far, a pair of spring clamps works best for me. I don't use tape. The spring clamps hold everything in place.
  23. I never thought of using a spiral blade to rip wood on a scroll saw. Now I have a use for the spiral blades I never use.
  24. I don't understand what you are doing?
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