BadBob

There is no natural order.

I have done this frequently on my bandsaw using a zero-clearance insert. I push the piece with a block of wood and hold it against the fence with a wooden stick. Both are scraficial, so if they get cut in the process, no big deal. The only issue I have ever had on the bandsaw was with the piece shifting. Using the tape would eliminate this issue. My shop is stocked with hazardous tools. Sharp spinning objects can hurt you badly, but so can most hand tools, whether they are sharp or not. I have known people to stab themselves with a screwdriver. I don't consider a drill to be terribly dangerous, yet I know someone who drilled a hole through their hand. I have wrenches that are large enough that if I were to drop one on my toe, it would be very bad. I wear steel-toed safety shoes in my shop. I see people in their shop in shorts and flip-flops. What do I get injured on? Corners. I took a file to my Shopsmith because I kept cutting myself on the corners. What am I scared of? Falling chisels. If I drop a chisel or one falls off the bench by the time it hits the floor, I will be as far away as I can get. All of the things you do in a shop are dangerous in some way. You mitigate the risk. Understand your tools and think through the process.

The idea of this post was to demonstrate a technique for resawing small parts using two-sided tape. This technique would be very usable on a bandsaw and could probably be used on a scroll saw, although I haven't tried it. It's on my to-do list.

I have to resaw a board that is long enough to go through my planer, or I have to sand it to get it flat and smooth. Now I have a thin piece of expensive wood that I may never need again, or at least not for months. It also allows me to pull bits of wood out of the waste bin that would otherwise be kindling. It also allows me to create a project from the same piece of wood. The piece on the tape is not coming off, and I think kickback is highly unlikely. If it does, I am not standing in the path of the part, and even if it did, it is tiny. I am wearing eye and ear protection. I would not do this with a large part like the ornament I cut from 3/4 stock and resawed on the band saw to get multiple ornaments.

Some time ago, I discovered that I could save a lot of wood by cutting out parts from thick stock and then resawing them to the desired thickness. I began doing this on my scroll saw using a zero clearance insert. I later moved this to my band saw. I was making a dragon figurine that had very small parts, and the wood I had on hand was just a little too short for the planer. Additionally, my bandsaw was experiencing issues, so I decided to try this method on the table saw. I attached the small part to a larger piece of wood using two-sided tape and ran it through the saw very slowly. It worked like a charm. I got a very smooth cut with only a little nub where the blade exited. I cut smaller and thinner pieces, but didn't think about photos until they were done. The wings, horns, and arms were all resawn this way.

I was wondering why he didn't do that.

I generally dislike stains. I would much rather use contrasting or different-colored woods. Sometimes I need the contrast, but the design of the piece requires that all the parts be cut from the same piece of wood. I use plywood when strength or large panels are required. If I am concerned about the color of the plywood, I have made my own plywood in small quantities. The first time I did this was for a mastodon that I made for my grandson. I made the plywood from 1/16-inch thick wood. The shop-made plywood was incredibly strong. After cutting out the tusks for the mastodon, I could not break them with my hands. So far, it has survived two grandkids. You need to consider the project at hand and its intended use. Will it sit on a shelf, hang on a wall, or will it get some hard use, like a kid's toy might? With solid wood, it's essential to keep in mind that wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. On small parts, this doesn't matter much, but as your project gets larger, the movement becomes more of an issue.

Weights can be very handy around the shop. Salt can interfere chemically with the glue bond, according to TiteBond. If you want some grit in the joint, try rubbing two pieces of sandpaper together.

So are lizards, birds, and squirrels.

If you use Firefox for your browser and configure sync, it will automatically back up your bookmarks. You can do lots of other things with sync as well. I run two local backups every 24 hours to external backups using software I have written. I also back up to two off-site locations on the internet. These happen automatically in the background. If I change or add a file, it gets backed up within seconds.

If you are using a foot switch. You could bypass the switch, but it's probably better to replace it.

I make puzzles from 3/4-inch wood. If surface sanding is required, I do it before cutting. Once they are cut, I use a sanding mop to remove any fuzz and smooth out the sharp edges.

I think this is the fifth dump truck I have made in this collection. The body is 2x construction pine and brush-painted with acrylic craft paint. The bed is oak and finished with satin polyurethane, also applied with a brush. The wheels and axles are from craftparts.com and finished with amber shellac, also applied with a brush. It is relatively simple, except for the bed, which must be made precisely; otherwise, it will not tilt, and in some cases, it cannot be mounted.

Here is one of several of Lloyd's plans I have made. I have a long waiting list.

I bought one plan. The cost was $9.50 US. The price seems higher than it used to be, but that could be due to the current exchange rate.

The website is still up. You can still place orders, but the only method for payment is PayPal. It works. I used it today. https://www.lloydswoodtoyplans.com/

I have spent several hundred dollars there and need to place another order soon. Almost perfect. Their sizes are exact. If you order a 6-inch wide board, you get a board that is 6 inches wide. Defects are few, minor, and far between. I have never had a board that I thought was worth the trouble to get replaced.

@FrankEVLacquer vs. polycrylic: which do you prefer?

Same here. I'd use it until it broke and buy a new one.

Confirmed it is not working:

I have both MiterSets; they are awesome.

You may not have saved it where you think you did. I have done that more than once.

It only takes a few strategically placed dots of glue. If you use too much glue, that could be a problem. I haven't had that happen yet.

That is exactly why I like using wood glue.

I like using dots of wood glue in the waste areas. I clamp the stack together for 20 minutes, and that is enough to hold them together. It's cheap, doesn't move, and there is no gap between the layers.