BadBob

I have been on the phone several times with Ray and others at Seyco. They are great with anything mechanical. I learned that they don't know much beyond the straightforward things with anything electronic. I suspect that when they have a saw in the shop, They replace electrical parts until they are fixed or determine that isn't the problem. I had a bad motor, and they could not tell me how to test it. It's a DC motor, so all I had to do was take it out and hook it to a battery. A DeWalt or other 18V or greater battery will spin the motor. So will a car battery. I had a knocking problem several years ago and spent much time on the phone with Ray. I wound up replacing everything in the saw that was mechanical to get the saw working in as short a time as possible.

@OCtoolguyRead carefully. Buying tools from China is tricky. Most of the tools are metric. Lots of the power tools will not work on US power. Then there are the returns. If you need to send it back you have to pay return shipping. Surprise, it costs more for you to ship it back than you paid for it. I looked at Temu's returns policy with one gotcha that I saw. First return per order is free! You'll get a free return label you can print. Subsequent returns within the same order will require you to cover shipping costs. I would buy one thing at a time. Wait for it to ship and order the next thing on the list. You should take a look at some of the router table insert plates. These look like they are made to fit that router. They don't fit any router I own. They have an od hole spacing.

Let us know how it works for you. I'm particularly interested in your thoughts after using it for some projects.

Right here. I searched for "router tool" and scrolled until I found it. It took less than a minute

I'm only showing the best. Some of them went in the trash.

Here are some ornaments I cut from the patterns in this year's business kit.

Here are a few I have made recently. I have been trying to use up bits and pieces of wood I have that are too thin for about anything else and also trying to learn to cut thin stock. Stack cutting is not an option since I only want one of each. I have also been learning some new photography and photo editing skills. From Holiday Ornaments For the Scroll Saw - Rick Longabaugh

Maybe you did not scroll down far enough. I just saw it for $24.

Then they are not scraps, are they?

Is there such a thing?

Yes, every time I have had a problem with my scroll saw, it has happened at this time of year. It is what convinced me that I needed two saws.

I am new to making flat ornaments. I like solid wood and generally use 1/4-inch random hardwoods because that is what I have on hand, mostly wood left over from other projects. I use plywood if the pattern is complex and/or fragile. I cut them one at a time and never have stack-cut ornaments. I am not against stack-cutting; I don't need or want multiples, and I am using them as practice cutting thinner wood. I don't paint ornaments.

It's easy and does not cost anything, so why not? I back the blade tension off my band saws. It is much harder to do.

The cars take a long time. Each coat of paint is allowed to cure for 12 to 24 hours and then be sanded and recoated. There are several coats of primer, too, but since it is shellac-based, it cures faster. The multiple primer coats are used to put enough primer on to hide the wood grain. I made these all simultaneously, so I can't tell you how long it takes. The blue trucks get up to three coats of paint on bare wood sanding between wood. The paint I use covers very well. The multiple coats with sanding in between are to get them smooth to the touch. It takes as many coats as it takes. I have never made one. So I don't know how long it takes to make one. It takes at least four days to complete a batch, usually more. As mentioned above, I wait 12 to 24 hours between coats because the pain needs to be bone dry to sand. The cars are poor sellers, but they do get lots of views. If you want to make lots of money, this isn't the way. My toys are of the highest quality I can produce. When you pick up one of my trucks, it will be smooth and feel good in your hand. The people that buy my toys are very pleased with them. Usually, when I tell someone what I sell these for, I get s response like "You can never sell them for that price." or something similar, yet I do. I'm not getting rich off of them, and I don't sell one every week or even every month, but they do sell. I don't know how many I have sold because some have been multiples in custom orders. The price I sell the trucks for is currently $16. Considering the amount of labor that goes into them, I should be asking for more. I'm going to increase my prices after Christmas.

This is what I use for touching up the outside of projects. It is very aggressive and takes some practice to get used to. I use it a lot. I can sand outside curves easily and get into tight corners if I remove the platten. This touches almost everything that comes off my scroll saw for that little bum you get when stating the cut, if nothing else. I also have the Shopsmith version of this. It has variable speeds, and the belt can be rerouted so it can sand inside. It also has a curved platten and a 1/2 inch platen to use 1/2 inch belts.

I have only used mine as a saw. The sander always looked like a bad idea to me.

I make a lot of toys and paint many of them. As a general rule, I don't use primers. However, I use white primer or white paint as the base when painting lighter or brighter colors. The white base will make the colors brighter and let you cover them with less paint. Yellow and Orange are primary examples. You can get great results painting with a brush, but it is a skill like scrolling. It takes practice. Use good brushes and multiple coats sanding between coats until you get it smooth and the coverage you want. I use Loew-Cornell Golden Taklon brushes, usually 1/2 inch flat, but I have a large collection. These cars are primed with Zinsser B-I-N Shellac white primer. They are brush-painted with a variety of acrylic paints. The blue and pink are house paint. The others are cheap acrylic craft paints. They are top-coated with clear acrylic. The white parts are primer with a clear acrylic top coat. I have made many of these little trucks. These are painted with cheap navy blue craft acrylic and a brush. I have painted them with an airbrush, but looking at photos, I can't tell the difference.

I wish someone would show me how you use one of these oscillating tools to sand you scroll saw projects.

The Harbor freight tools come with the triangle sanding attachment. I have one, and I have never found a use for the sanding attachment. My daughter used it once to get into the corners while refinishing some hardwood floors.

Make a flap sander by cutting a slot in a 1/4 inch dowel and insert a stripof sandpaper in it. Mount this in a drill. I find this to be so useful that I keep an old drill with a piece of sanding belt ready to go. I find diamond needle files handy for very tight places. Harbor freight has some cheap but they are fairly coarse. Amazon has a lot of them. I have a set of Japanese finger files that I find very useful. I would do all the sanding before assembly.

So, a Dremel Multi-Max is the same type of tool as what harbor freight calls an Oscillating Multi-Tool. These are pretty large for what I would call detail sanding. I thought detail sanding was something on the order of sanding internal cuts on a Victorian fretwork piece or an intricate ornament.

I have one. It's in a box.

I looked at harbor freight and did not see a tool that looked like a MultiMax knockoff. I think some of us have completely different ideas about what detail sanding is.

+1 That is precisely why I bought a second rotary tool. My existing Craftsman was not compatible with many Dremel accessories I wanted to use.

OK, I give up. What are you calling a detail sander?