BadBob

The filter computer is probably a Firewall. I have several. Every computer in my home has some form of Linux installed. All business is done on ethernet-wired computers with firewalls between them and the wireless network. The Linux boxes have internal firewalls that let things out but do not let anything in. I have one device that has Windows 10 installed. It is used for only two purposes. Updating GPS and running an R/C Flight simulator. Linux is installed on a second drive in this system, and it is encrypted, so nothing in Windows can access it. I don't run any Microsoft software anywhere. I only used Windows in a lab environment when I was working, never on my desktop. OS/2, Linux, and Solaris were what I used. I drove the desktop support people crazy. I could see them, but they could not see me. Passwords are incredibly important. I worked in desktop support for a couple of years. I could usually guess or locate people's passwords. Not only were most of them simple, but many times, they were written down on a postit note and stuck somewhere. On the bottom of their keyboard was a popular spot. I have found the list of passwords stuck on a monitor. For many years, I ran a Linux box outside the company firewall. I could sit and watch them try to break in. All day every day 24/7. There were so many attacks I had to turn the alerts off. I was getting hundreds and, on some days, thousands of emails.

I think most of the "hacked" accounts are bad passwords. Only a few people use good passwords. My passwords everywhere look like xU0%i7&$1nAtRI, and no two sites have the same password. Note that this is not a password for any of my accounts. I never use a centralized password like the ones you see where they want you to log in with Google. If you do that and you Google account gets cracked they own you. Although I know it is a pain in the butt, every account I have that involves money in any way has two-part authentication enabled. I have been on the internet since before it was open to the public and text only. I have never been hacked. I have relatives who click on anything that pops up in a message and forget their passwords. Instead of going through the reset procedure, they open a new account. These are the same people who get "hacked." The truth is that they don't know what a hack is. I could write a book on techtards.

I discovered that if you cancel an order in Goimagine, it does not update the stock levels. I reported it to Goimagine support. I have tried a lot of different rulers in my photos, but I like my wood folding rule best. I have started reciently holding the items in my hand for one of the photos. Several people have mentioned that they liked that. I would like to sell in some more places. However, I need to get a handle on Goimagin. I have been considering the Facebook marketplace.

I have been doing this for a couple of years. I started linking to categories and searches because Pinterest showed my listings as unavailable if they sold out and never changed the pin when I restocked. So now, if I pin a dinosaur, I go to my shop and search for the dinosaur. Anyone using that link will see all of my dinosaurs. I learned the hard way to test this and ensure the search showed them what I wanted. In the stats, these show up as "Total Views," which is page views.

I have had three orders so far on Goimagine. Processing is a pain compared to Etsy. I gave up on Shipo and am buying my labels from Pirate Ship, which I prefer. Using Stripe works, but as far as I can tell, there is no way to do a partial refund. I had someone pay almost double the shipping. It was my fault because I messed up on the weight when I created the listing.

Yes, for the most part.

Loctite was the first thing I thought of.

I have never had a tool with moving parts that did not require adjustment/alignment. YouTube is full of videos on how to do this with various tools. I keep a square on a magnet on the front of my scrollsaw to check blade alignment and a 10mm wrench for adjusting the clamps. Yesterday, I discovered my lower clamp was out of alignment. It had moved so far to one side that I could not get the blade in. It was tight, so I don't know how it moved. Fortunately, I was not cutting puzzles.

That seems like a good idea.

I signed up for their newsletter previously after seeing a project with one of their free patterns.

Isopropyl alcohol typically has lots of water in it.

Something is wrong. I have A Pegas and an EX-21. Both tables have a bevel on the bottom. The blade does not contact the table when I tilt the head on the Pegas as far as it will go. Here are a few things that come to mind: Something may be bent or misaligned or possibly defective in some other way. Is the table position adjustable? Could the table be mounted incorrectly? If the saw is rigidly mounted, is the plywood flat? Is the stand flat and square? Could the stand be causing everything to be twisted or warped slightly? Are the blade clamps adjusted so the blade is centered in the clamps? Run the saw at its slowest speed and observe the blade from the front. Does it move straight up and down or wobble? The clamps should be adjusted so the blade is centered and 90 degrees to the table surface.

It's a design feature. No matter how bad you think it is, someone will like it.

I have wanted a turntable for a long time. I'm just waiting to have time to mess with it. All of the ones I looked at turned too fast for my purpose. Them I learned that I can slow the video down using my video editor.

I have a hard time with this too.

Everclear will work and you can drink it if there is any left.

Very nice.

I made a batch of these photo frame insert ornaments this year. The photo is not very good because my printer fuser roller was bad and the inkjet printer was clogged again.

That would be great.

Compound Christmas Ornaments - Easy-To-Make and Fun-To-Give Projects for the Holidays Diana Thompson Page 47 I checked because the covers do not always match the contents.

To test a potentiometer. Measure the total resistance: Connect one probe of your multimeter to each of the outer terminals of the potentiometer. The multimeter should display a resistance value. This value should be equal to the total resistance of the potentiometer, which is usually printed on the body of the component. Measure the wiper resistance: Move the wiper to the center of the potentiometer. Connect one probe of your multimeter to one outer terminal and the other probe to the wiper terminal. The multimeter should display a resistance value. This value should be approximately half the total resistance of the potentiometer. Rotate the potentiometer through its full range, looking for dead spots or other erratic changes. The resistance should change smoothly from maximum to minimum and back. You can also check them with the power on by measuring the voltage. If I remember correctly, the voltage is only 5 volts DC. I'm an old-school electronics technician, so I prefer an analog meter for this test and have a Simson 260 just for this sort of thing. However, you can do it with a cheap digital meter.

Since you brought it up, I don't think a rheostat would be suitable for a scroll saw speed control. Potentiometer: Typically used for low-power applications such as: Volume control in audio equipment Brightness control in lighting systems Position sensors in joysticks and other control devices Rheostat: Typically used for high-power applications such as: Motor speed control Heater control Lighting dimmer switches Power handling: Potentiometer: Designed for low power handling. Rheostat: Designed for high power handling. Internal construction: Potentiometer: Typically have a resistive element made of a conductive film or wire. Rheostat: Typically have a resistive element made of wire wound around a ceramic core.

So it seems like repacking bearings occasionally would be a good idea.

Are these not sealed bearings?

It depends on what spray adhesive you use. I use 3M 77 or 3M 45. I like the 3M 77 best. I don't wait any time other than when it takes to move from the area where I spray to the wood. I have a roller, but I don't generally use it for these adhesives. I usually apply it directly to the wood. I have tried many different things to hold my patterns in place. If the pattern lifts while cutting, I don't use that adhesive again unless I have nothing else.