BadBob

Yes, I wax! Not only will it make your table slick, but it will help to protect the coating. I wax everything that rusts or slides. Many of my projects get a coat of paste wax and a final buffing. Some clamps should not be waxed. Harbor Freight trigger clamps will slip if you wax them. A can of Johnson's paste wax has a permanent home on my workbench.

Stuff expands to fill all available space.

I use plywood where strength is an issue.

There are other things I don't like about "My" old two-speed 226 Hawk besides the round blade holder. I used this saw for a long time before I got my Excalibur EX21. Now it is only used for a backup, and I am actively looking for a used replacement. Reaching the back of the saw to release the blade tension. The blade mounting system is a pain to use. I need a tool to hold the top clamp in place. If I forget to use the tool, the blade will not be mounted correctly. If I forget to take the tool off, it goes flying. I don't like the aluminum table top. That is a personal preference, but I prefer steel or cast iron. If I change blade sizes, I have to adjust the tension. If I forget and it is a smaller blade, it will likely break the blade shortly after the saw starts. By comparison, the Excalibur EX-21: It is easy to tension once you have it set up correctly. Flip the front lever, and done. Changing blades is simple and fast. It has a steel table, and other parts are also steel allowing me to position lights or any other magnetic thing just about anywhere. The blade holders don't come off. Internal cuts are quick and easy. I never heed to crawl around the floor looking for dropped parts. I can change blades to a different size without adjustment. I did change the clip to the newer style. It is plastic with ears on the side. If the blade breaks, the bottom blade clamp will drop almost every time. Usually, the clamp remains on the saw under the table. The older metal clamp drops the clamp a lot less, but when it does, it is on the floor somewhere and rarely on the saw. I have three different clamps for the hawk. Two will not work with the plastic holder because they are too small. The larger one works with both the plastic and the steel holder. The brass part is removable.

This is what I have. I bought it because of the seat height range. I have saws and a workbench that all have different heights.

The round blade holders are enough for me to say no. Once you have crawled around the floor looking for one that went flying, you will understand why.

I have the Ridgid. I mostly use the smallest spindle. I have a piece of hardboard notched to fit around the spindle for sanding small pieces to eliminate the bump I get when the piece I am sanding moves from the table to the plastic insert. The dust collection works well.

You can make paste wax.

https://www.craftparts.com/ This is usually in the plans with part numbers.

Fat Fendered Toy Car Made from a pine 2x4 and hand-painted with a brush and pink acrylic paint. The wheels are finished with amber shellac.

I cut up to 1-1/2 inches thick with no problems yet. I have cut 2 inches but I didn't like it. It is too easy to get my finger mashed cutting 2 inches. If it is above 1-1/2 inch its a bandsaw project.

If you forget. Ask again.

I hold small parts by drilling a small hole that will not be seen after assembly and inserting a dowel, toothpick, or skewer to make a handle. If I have trouble getting the handle tight enough, I will add a bit of glue and cut it off flush when I am done. For heavier items, I hold the handle with long-nosed locking pliers. Wheels on a stick. Plastic spring clamps work for some things. My pointed Dowel collection. Truck body on a stick. This one is glued in and cut flush after painting. Fenders on a stick. Halloween on a stick.

White Oak, they built ships from it. Three of the most popular lumber choices for outdoor furniture include cypress, western red cedar, and redwood. Hardwoods such as ipe and teak are also rot-resistant and durable. Other options include acacia, black locust, cedar, and cypress. Ipe is dark in color and used for expensive decks and flooring. Kind of chocolate brown. The best protection is exterior paint and spar varnish. If you finish the wood, you will need to refinish it occasionally.

This is very cute.

That is enough to make me lose interest.

There are currently several Hitachi scroll saws for sale in the Facebook marketplace. Do you have one or know anything about them?

They might be great when cutting thin stock. You could cut as slowly as needed and change speed on the fly.

I have a few hundred painted items. Mostly toys.

Much work went into this collection of Bad Bob's Custom Motors cars. Several coats of white primer sanding between coats until smooth and the wood grain did not show through. Then multiple coats of flat acrylic paint were sanded between each coat until the white primer was covered. It took a lot of coats for the yellow one. I topped them off with clear gloss acrylic. The was a yellow sedan, but my grandson wanted to give it to a friend for a birthday gift before I decided to take the photo.

Another dinosaur puzzle. The back is hardboard, and the tray is finished with amber shellac.

T-Rex tray puzzle. This is my first attempt at a tray puzzle. I decided to make it a tray puzzle after cutting the dinosaur. I wanted to glue the gap closed, but it was too tight when I dry-clamped it to test. The back is a piece of hardboard cut, oversized, glued on, then sanded flush with a belt sander. The tray is finished with shellac.

Dinosaur tray puzzle. I cut the back off of a 3/4 inch piece of wood, cut out the dinosaur and painted it, and glued the wood back on. The tray is finished with amber shellac.

A few years back, my grandson wanted a toy cow. I found a piece of clip art that he liked, glued it to some MDF, and cut it out. I figure he would break the horns off right away but they are still attached.

That is my prefered method.