rash_powder

I don't know if it counts, but I would love a loaded Glowforge. It might not be able to cut as thick as a scroll saw in one go, but it can cut and engrave quite a variety of materials. I'd have to say that. Otherwise I really like my Hegner. Just wish someone with a bit more skill than I built the stand it is on.

I'm not sure the size of the community you live in, but if its big enough to support a welding and machine shop, they will most likely have them. I can source tiny drill bits at ACME tools or Fastenall where I am. Model rail road folks use tiny drills too I think. You'll not likely find a store supporting that hobby anymore though.

The bronze sleeves in the arms are very similar to the bearings in an engine on the rods and crank shaft - the main bearings and such. I've always heard them called plain bearings or bushings. The ones on the pitman are ball bearings. Again, thats just what I've always seen and heard them called. It's likely I'm totally wrong.

Gotcha. If the needle bearings are giving you repeated troubles, maybe try a plain bearing like what the Hegners use. Thats if the shaft it rides on will allow it. Its odd that they would choose a not common size bearing for a product that has a niche market and likely limited sales potential (by which I mean not the market potential as a car, table saw, ratchet set, etc). Spec'ing a more common size would make more sense in that regard. I guess it could be argued that the odd size forces parts sales to you, but it also gives a negative when word gets out that you can only find a critical part in one place. Anyway, best of luck!

That seems a little shady that the bearing isn't replaceable. A large majority of what humans put together can be taken apart again. I couldn't find a drawing, but from the parts listing it seems you have to replace the arm to replace the bearing? I've pressed things apart in a bench vise with carefully chosen sockets to act as a ram and spacer. And being aluminum and steel expand at different rates one could bake the arm to, say, 180ish degrees F and the bearing may come in and out a bit easier. To me thats an expensive tool to give up on. I would have to fix it. But that is me. Best of luck!!

I was having horrible vibration problems on my Hegner until I figured out it was my bench. In my attempts to fix the vibrations, I tried stick-on tire weights from Harbor Freight on the saws upper arm, to the rear of the pivot. I don't recall how many I used anymore, but it was in my belief a lot. It did not help at all, but oddly did not worsen things either. I talked with some of the engineers at work, and they said that the static balance is completely different than the dynamic balance. They said that it was some pretty complex math. My problems were caused by flex in the bench. Once I built a new, heavier, super rigid bench, it runs like glass. Maybe make sure that whatever you have it attached to is not teetering on three of four legs, and the table/bench top is not flexing. Maybe stack weights on the bench too - I had over 100lbs extra piled on to try and fix mine. Also be sure the fasteners are snugged up good and not loose. Another option may be to put a piece of rubber mat under the saw to absorb some vibration. Last ditch would be to bolt the entire bench to the floor; but I would guess for most that is unfeaseable/unacceptable. Best of luck!

I saw a fella do this on YouTube quite some time ago with a wooden apparatus he made to turn and feed. It was hand powered.

The Bearings I speak of are the bearings/bushings in the pivots of the arms. They are very similar to plain bearings or con-rod bearings in a car. That moly 60 paste is thicker than peanut butter; I cleaned them up as best I could and put just enough on them to see that the color changed - kinda streaky black. I haven't had to service them since, but I don't use my saw nearly as much as you guys do. I can tell you that this stuff is literally the only stuff to lube the final drive of a shaft drive motorcycle with. Any other grease lets that wear out; that final drive hub and parts are HUGE $$$. Its prob overkill for our application, but I feel its the best option for the bearings. I would pack a ball or roller bearing with the stuff if I felt that it was an application that warranted it.

I like mine; although i don't use it in a year as much as you would in a month. I have been using Honda Moly 60 Paste to lube the bearings. If you look up and read a little bit about this sort of grease and Molybdenum Disulphide, you will find it will lubricate after the carrier oil is burned off and up through about 700 degrees f. Way overkill for our needs; which to me makes it a perfect fit as it decreases time between lubes. I've made a sacrificial table for mine as I don't have that nice insert in the table. The bump stop has been moved so the upper arm has more clearance. That was probably the single greatest mod to the saw. Makes getting parts in and out easier. Thats all I know. I think you will really like your new Hegner.

Any saw that uses parallel arms to move the blade up and down, will move that blade ever so slightly front to rear. The longer the arms, the less that motion will be. This is because the arms each pivot around a point, that is located the same distance from the ends, making the arms sweep out a circle. The two arms work together to keep the blade oriented vertical, but the arc makes the blade move fore and aft slightly. Longer arms will have a greater arc, so less fore-aft; shorter arms will have a smaller arc so more fore-aft. I hope that makes sense. Its kinda hard to describe.

I had some bad vibrations problems that I solved with good, solid structure and mass. My original stand looked like an I beam made from 3/4" BB plywood. The top flexed too much and caused wicked vibrations at certain speeds. My new stand has a top made from 2x4 laminated together butcher block style. It doesn't flex and is heavy. I built a cabinet frame from 2x4 and skinned it with 1/4 ply. Its on casters for ease of movement. If you go the 4 caster/leg route be dead certain they are even or use adjustable feet. Its heavy enough and rigid enough that no more vibrations occur; and the cabinet underneath has a big storage space and a drawer for holding blades.

There are some excellent videos on youtube on how to resaw with a hand saw and finish the board with a hand plane. A lot more sweat involved, and definitely a bit of a learning curve to getting a good sharp edge on a hand plane and setting one up; but there is also a learning curve to resawing on the bandsaw. I can sometimes get it to work near perfect, and other times fail miserably. Haven't worked out the trick yet.

The outer hole gives a longer stroke versus a shorter stroke from the inner hole. I'v tried the inner hole to reduce vibrations before I built a new stand and it didn't really help. I'm not sure what you would need a short stroke for; maybe a new scroller would use it to slow the cutting rate.

Resaw them and make tea candle holders from Steve Goode's site; or if you have a lathe make pens from them.

I have a Hegner that the manual says I should oil the arm pivots at a certain interval. I bought a tube of Honda Moly 77 paste for my motorcycle and use it on the saw as well. The absolute thinnest film of this stuff on the bushings is all that is needed. Its is super slippery and remains that way up into the 700* F range - when the carrier burns away the moly is still a lubricant. Its a smallish tube and kinda spendy, but if you only used it for a scroll saw you would only ever buy one tube in your life.

I have a laser engraver and have been kicking around the idea of using it to 'attach' patterns to my materials. Just lightly burn the image on and take it to the saw and cut. Maybe a bit stronger of a burn to leave a small valley to help the blade follow. Has anyone tried this? Might save on tape and such; I do hate the spray glue. Down side so far would be cost but it can be used for other projects so not sure thats a minus. Thoughts?

I once read that schedule 80 pipe is the correct size stuff for dust collectors. Its not to code anymore so hard to find; but apparantly pool installers/maintainers use it. I've never verified this though as I use a piece of 4" drier flex stuff. It lasts me about 1 year with winter being what kills it. The cold makes it brittle so keep it warm.

I am pretty sure Hegner uses capacitor start motors like what are found in furnaces, air conditioners, etc. These motors use a variable frequency drive to control there speed correctly. The router speed controls are generally variable voltage. Its been a while since I looked into all this; but that router control will likely limit the power of the saw.

What you see is a Pegas #3 MG that I pulled from my waste pail to set things up. I think I made a 1/16" hole, only through one side. The grub screw isn't shown, but its in there with enough blue Loc-Tite gel for a dozen or so bolts. I sanded the mating ends of the cap screw and grub screw at work as flat and square as I could. This hasn't been tested yet, but the cap screw provides enough leverage that I don't think I will need tools to tighten it up. There is a full 8mm of engagement surface, so hopefully I won't need tools, but if I do, a cheap hex key to leave at my saw will be more than adequate. Hopefully #2 will be drill more squarely on the first try. I want to make another two or three so that I can have several blades ready to go. If I could locally source an 8mmx1.25x15mm socket head cap screw that would be glorious; but the 20mm I have should be fine. Will see in a day or two!

A hand held test fit seemed like it will be good to go. I put two holes in, the first one was a wee bit crooked. Its a bit of a pain to file a square to the world flat on the corner. A center punch is definitely necessary as was a very light touch when starting the drill in. The Loc-tite is drying so will try it prob friday. I parts for another today.

I did get a replacement laser module from ortur; but i have not yet three weeks later tried it again. I was using lightburn.

So, with the seeds of an idea from Rockytime, I went on a parts hunt to see if I could ‘make’ a clamp with as little machine work as possible. The parts in the pic are what I found. The coupling nut is a bit loos up and down but will work fine. A shorter cap screw would be nice, but it’s what they (Menards) had and I can cut it.

The local Menards here stocks 3/4” ply, birch I think, with a UV resistant finish already applied. It looks very much like your picture.

Maybe mix wood glue with water until appropriately thinned and paint the project with that first? If the wood is just sponging up sealer it needs to be ‘plugged’ first. The glue should still take a stain, just not as well as the wood would have.

Rocky, thanks for the info. Will give me something to do in between the 1000 other tasks I have. It’s the life of a home owner I guess! Again, thank you much. I can see having several of these with blades loaded and ready to go being a great help