rash_powder

Would you be able to measure the length and diameter and length that I can make a couple? Or a link to where I could buy them? They seem like an improvement

Find yourself a lab jack on Amazon. Handy little giz that can support quite a bit of weight and relatively low cost. You could set it on the floor of your laser and raise/lower the project to the focal point. They are like a scissor jack.

I have a 20w Ortur LM2. The laser module died after maybe 2 weeks of very little use. Ortur is sending a new one, but it is a process and the last email I got was maybe 1.5-2 weeks ago that they would ship me a replacement. Nothing since. If it never comes I guess I will have to find a replacement on my own. They are out there. You may have a different experience, but from what I have gleaned from Ortur and Lightburn forums and a few other locations, this is a very common occurence.

I have been noticing while cutting 3/4” poplar, that regardless of the blade I choose a cutting across the grain is SO much easier than cutting with the grain. is there a reason for this or have I a technique problem?

The single greatest thing you can do for ease of use is to move the arm bump stop on the back down about an inch. That nets you so much extra space that I can generally see the blade and the hole I want quite easily. it is a pain to cut, drill, and tap cast iron though.

I will have to dig through my pdf’s and find the manual I downloaded. There’s only 3 bolts so I didn’t think there would be a torque pattern.

I took the top apart and got the saw off. On the floor it runs quite smooth up to about 80%. So I have a flex problem. Has to be flex. I’m also thinking that having the saw mounted at approx 10* isn’t helping. So I built a torsion top. Will mount saw to that and then to stand and see what happens tomorrow. Then I will glue the laminated 2x4 top together. 12 2x4 wide so 18”. Biggest anything I have ever glued. Then flatten and if that flexes I give up!

I had some time this last week to think about my saw shaking. Yesterday while trying to figure it out, just to see what would happen I lifted the front of the saw up at one of its shakiest speeds. BAM!! It stopped shaking! Then I had to go in for work so had to stop thinking on it. Today after work I removed one of the casters on the back (I had put four on the cart). Now its super tippy and it no longer shakes super bad where it used to, but now I don't think anything above about 80% is useable due to shake. Some of the speeds it shakes putting a foot on the base stops it; and that is fine. So now I am back to thinking again. Maybe will try putting one caster in front in front and two in back. Uhhhhhhh........

My Hegner 22 is on a plywood stand made from 3/4” BB ply, and rolls on casters. I don’t think I built the stand heavy enough as the saw shakes like hell in the middle 1/2 of the speeds. I would recommend over build it as heavier will be better. The casters mine is on roll it around great. I like four swivels, 2 front and 2 back, that makes it much more maneuverable. I am going to remake the top and instead of 3/4” ply, it will be 2x6 cut down to about 2x5, 15” wide and 26” ish long. I think my shake is that the table top flexes. A table of laminated 2x5 should not flex!!

Not sure if this is the right forum, so I apologize if I am in error. I have several of these cut out. 1/8” BB ply is the material. I don’t know how I should finish them. Paint each butterfly, stain the whole thing the same, BLO the whole thing, I don’t know. I can tell you I would rather have dental work done than paint. what do you all think??

I watched a whole mess of videos on building dust collectors last summer and built one very similar to this from a piece of either 6" or 8" pvc sewer pipe. Mine was a little different as I used the pipe itself as the collection pail and included a filter in it. It works, but it doesn't separate the fine scroll saw dust as well as I would like. In fact, a lot of the big dust would end up in the filter too. Its something I need to revisit I think.

The thought is that whatever escapes the first separator will be caught by the second. The base for the Dust Deputy is just a little to big to fit on the lid of a 1/2 gallon glass jar. I had to turn a wood adapter on the lathe to mount it to the jar. I've been eyeing those Metrovacs. I'm not sure its any better than what I have at the moment if I can get a cart built for my mess anyway. Definitely would be multipurpose. Not sure how I feel about vac bags again though.

I have seen on youtube experiments running multiple dust deputy or similar product, I don't recall name of it, in series. For $20 each I could easily see two or three in series if a person had the space and jars/pail to hook them too.

Acetone will dissolve loctite. Heat is always a great help in getting things loose. Use your wife's hair dryer or a heat gun, or if plastic is near put a soldering iron on the screw and heat that way. As mentioned before, your best bet would be an impact driver and a properly fitting bit for the screw.

I'm not sure how thick a soda/beer can aluminum is, but a regular scissor will cut that fine all day long.

Rocky, the stand it is currently on is a homebuilt affair from leftover 3/4" BB plywood. I think my #1 problem is that the top where the saw is bolted is flexing followed by the whole thing is just too lite. I would love to be able to bolt it to the floor with a proper stand but that just isn't an option at the moment. I'm going to correct the top flex by lamination of 2x6s. The rounded edges will be cut off, so I figure I will lose about 3/8" of height so to the top would only be about 5 1/4" thick. If that flexes, there's nothing I can do to stop it! The weight will primarily come from the top, as Google searches tell me that much pine should weigh about 50lbs; plus I am going to frame the cabinet from 2x4s and cover it with 3/8" ply. Add in drawers and the stand alone should be awful close to 100lbs, plus the saw itself and any kit I put in the drawers. If it wasn't such a pain to do, I would remove my saw from the current stand and just run it loose on the floor and see what happens. I have also gotten 1/4oz sticky wheel weights from Harbor Freight and done some very limited trials at balancing the arms while its running at its shakiest. This didn't work very well. After another Google search this morning I have found that there are quite a few scrollsaws mounted to cabinets similar to what I am thinking so I will start building as soon as I get paid next. I would absolutely LOVE to run the saw a where it is shaking the most. The speeds it doesn't shake at seem to be too fast or too slow. Thanks all!!

I am in the design portion of a new stand for my Hefner as the old one does it seem to support it well enough to keep it from vibrating. From 900-1200 it shakes furiously. i will be making the top deck from 2x6s laminated together. At 26”x15” it will weigh about 50lbs by itself. I am really wanting to make a 2x4 framed cabinet with drawers underneath but afraid that this will make the saw ‘louder’ by giving it a sound box. I am also concerned that the drawers might rattle. has anyone got their saw mounted to an enclosed cabinet? Does it increase the sound level? Thanks!

The whistling could be too that a line is blocked or partially plugged. Just thought of that.

you are looking for loc line. 3/4" loc line interfaces with a 3/4" pvc threaded connector. https://www.amazon.com/Loc-Line-Coolant-Starter-Acetal-Copolymer/dp/B006R9ONBA/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=locline+3%2F4&qid=1580141424&sr=8-10 the elk sound is because of something whistling. you will need to look for leaks, make sure nothing can buzz (all piping is fastened securely), and you may need to play with the shape of your dust pickup end. I built my dust collector using the loc line and have no whistles.

SCROLLSAW703, Not stain like wood stain, stain like when you rub something aluminum on yourself and you turn black. My project was sanded, but I've to do something now to get the aluminum black off it. octoolguy, That is a great idea! Our Bed, Bath, Beyond is closing and has been liquidating for about a month. Do you know what was the product name? Did you use permanent spray or temporary? Does it lift any? Sorry for all the questions. I absolutely never thought it would do this. tomsteve So any painting/staining solvent is ok? I've never had to clean un-finished aluminum. The motorcycle and auto's have a clear coat of some sort. Thanks all!

I’m working a rather complicated (for me) project and with all the spinning and twirling the wood has rubbed the table of my saw so much it is leaving aluminum stain on the wood. I am sure I can sand this away when done but it is going to be tough with all the fretwork. would wax prevent this? I thought about putting that clear sticky shelf paper on the table but I’m afraid it will start lifting off in short order. Any tricks??

I would opt for the dust collection system. Reason being you already have a very effective dust filtration unit based on this vid by Izzy Swan. I don’t know what your budget is, but harbor freight has a nice, smallish dust collector that would really only need a bag to filter upgrade.

My understanding was it is just the fir/spruce/pine that is blotchy when stained. Is that not so?

I am quite certain you could source the bearings at any good machine shop. It simply does not make sense for any manufacturer to spec a non-standard bearing. They may be an odd size but there should be a ready supply of them. You would just need the outside, inside, and length measurements for plain and ball-bearings. Honda M77 assembly lube is about the best grease I can think of for lubing parts. A tiny dab will do and when it dries out it is still a lubricant.

I have a project I would like to make for my wife, and would like to make it from mahogany. The thickest pieces would be either 3/4” or 1-1/2” thick. I haven’t quite decided yet. If I oot for the 1-1/2”, what blade would you guys recommend? I would have to glue two boards together and don’t quite feel my skill is up to cutting two pieces the same and then glueing. ive also never worked mahagony before. Is it very hard? I will need to redraw some to get 1/4” boards too as none are available locally. thanks!!