Wichman

Did you check the commutator? That's the part that the brushes ride against. When you remove the brushes you can shine a light down the hole, you should see bright copper bars with spaces between them. Slowly rotate the motor to see if there's any damage or a piece of debris shorting two or more of the bars. I've had to take a motor apart and use a Dremel tool to clean out the spaces (metal fouling), then reassemble. With the brushes, did you check to see if they have a "glaze" on the face on the commutator side? That face should not be shiny, but rather a dull finish

Page 17 of the manual shows how to check the brushes and commutator for wear. Your description fits worn brushes, so that's where I would start.

I saw a wonderful concept on FB recently. Take a pattern of a baby carriage, expand the bottom, Drill or cut 1/2" holes in a row underneath the carriage, add a base. Strongarm the friends and relatives to donate some $$ bills, roll and stuff the holes with the bills. Add text or other graphics as you desire. Steve Good has a stork pattern that would work for this. Search "baby".

Two items that have sold well for me. A small compound cut reindeer out of 1 x 2 pine. In addition to the regular cut I drilled holes with a #65 drill bit between the legs on both sides and did not cut from the outside at all. This leaves you with a block of wood with the 3 dimension reindeer hidden within. I take out the reindeer, brush off all the sawdust and small waste pieces, then reassemble for sale. My customers appreciated that when put back into the block the fragile legs can't get broken in transporting to it's final destination. https://www.woodgears.ca/reindeer/scrollsaw_plans.html The second is a small ( 1 1/2" cube to start ) heart shaped box that features a sliding dovetail on the top with a magnetically held pin. Customers loved the magnetic pin because it held while they were on vacation and didn't have to worry about losing an expensive pair of earrings ( or at least losing one ). The original pattern came from Wood magazine years ago and I made several modifications, but it's not my plan and I can't share.

Happy Birthday, Travis

Just curious, how much bigger does it need to be?

The first time is kinda exciting, after that, not so much.

Garry, The patterns on the fine scrollsaw website start at about 1917 and end in the 1930's. The owner of fine scrollsaw, Pedro, has permission from Hobbies LTD to provide the patterns for free on his website. Hobbies LTD still exists (I think) but they have no patterns now, just hobby supplies. Wichita

I understand. Most of the major cordless tool manufacturers have a cordless pin nailer in their offerings, the cost difference between pneumatic and cordless, for the tool, are staggering.

This book has copywrite protection (I guess not from Russia). It is available from Amazon. I own this book. https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Fretwork-Scroll-Saw-Patterns/dp/0806982543/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3BVGYBK5OJNBD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.37EzIcVlgLJB6gaJRNN8oABmcggYzmDASCSkkOo-Gm3MOBs5gUabJIbdJ2r_59Y-wT680LOg30u05TFQN4o6adhVseHAysHZGlUm9fhy-YKqI4Bbails35-dirltYEl-e16PBVrJus5w0XhIIl42IvWxFK924t7A0g751LmQTtHNt2HQeJEVUqm5fwpz9Izg.K6WdomiAcyojmDU7vAobJpms5qtwDh6Lj9meMOf2wKg&dib_tag=se&keywords=classic+fretwork+patterns&qid=1748779856&sprefix=classic+fretwork+patterns%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-1

I use this pin nailer (23 gauge pins): https://www.harborfreight.com/23-gauge-pin-nailer-64143.html The pins come in lengths down to 1/2"

Allen, Steve Good has a very nice, double headed, axe pattern, that has a shield hanger to go with it. You don't have to make the whole thing, or make it as ornate, just customize to your needs. A short saying, cut into the handle is another option.

The patterns can be found at the following website. Scroll to the bottom of the page, there is a link to download the entire collection as a single zip file. I've started using a thumb drive as a backup for my scroll saw patterns to avoid what you have just experienced. https://www.finescrollsaw.com/

They do not. Checked last night, sticks to the throat plate not the table.

The table is not steel, it is cast aluminum. Care needs to be taken not to get to aggressive with the abrasives. When my table starts to feel rough I lightly go over the table with a 320 grit sanding sponge, followed by a wipe down with a blue paper towel and a light coating of paste wax. You're not trying to get a mirror finish or an original table back. Just a nice smooth to the touch finish with a light coat of wax.