FrankEV

Nicely done. The Bamboo cutting board was a good choice.

My 4” x4” pattern was adapted from a purchased Stained-Glass pattern. Wood used: Aspen, Aromatic Cedar, Bloodwood, Butternut, Poplar, Padauk, Roasted Birch, Sepele, and Wenge. Date added with a Laser Engraver and ,yes, it is misaligned. It will be hanging on my Christmas Tree. Comments and critiques always welcome. EDIT: I have posted the pattern in Pattern Exchange. This pattern can be cut from one piece of nominal 1/4" or 3/8" thick board, painted, and reassembled by edge gluing as a segmentation.

The Idea was to do something Pink for the exibition. Flamingos are pink. The Aromatic Cedar is quite pink, but unfortunately tones down when finish is applied. The photo also makes it look less pink then when viewed live.

Wonderful work. Just wondering, are you sharing or selling your patterns. There is a market for such quality patterns.

The Gallery, where I exhibit some of my work, will be presenting “50 Shades of Pink: October Legacy”, a month-long exhibition in tribute to Breast Cancer Awareness Month. While thinking Pink, I recalled previously creating an Intarsia pattern based on a coloring book page that featured a Pink Flamingo standing on one leg among reeds and cattails. Hopefully, my 12x18 inch scene, mounted fixed within in a 1” wide x 1” high rail shadow box frame of a “Pink” Flamingo will be accepted for display in the exhibition. Wood used: Aspen, Aromatic Cedar, Black Limba, Bloodwood, Mango, Poplar, Rosted Flame Birch, Sepele, Wenge, Yellowheart, and Peruvian Walnut for the Frame. The extended backer is 1/4” thick Birch Ply that was painted with an Air Brush. The piece was protected with a Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. Comments and critiques always welcome.

I note on the pattern the flippers, 'each to be cut from one piece of wood, shape, sand, glue and reassemble' in order to treat like one piece. The small pieces went back together reasonably easy. BTW I did did not count the pieces in the Flippers. There are a total 78 pieces including the 3 flippers in this piece.

My 16” x 6 ½” pattern. Wood used: Blue Pine, Bubinka, Poplar, Yellowheart, and Wenge. Weathering solution used to darken areas on the flippers. Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. The knot in the Blue Pine Board is not quite as noticable when viewed hung on the wall as seen in the picture. The board was just a bit too narrow. Comments and critiques allway welcome.

I would go with your gut. You can buy nice quality thin boards in varying species (giving you different colors if desired) from Ocooch Hardwoods. It may be a simple layered project, but if you treat it like Intarsia, using the natural wood colors, a good sanding job, and finishing with a good clear coat of Lacquer or Polycrylic, the project will look much nicer than using plywood and stain. Just my two pennies worth.

Replying to TAIrving 9 x12 inches. Yes Osage Orange will darken if left uncoated. The board I used for the pieces in the Fox were already darker then I wanted. However, the color of OO can be sabilized with a protective coat of a hard durable finish like the multiple coats of Clear Acrylic (polycrylic) spray I use. I just learned the hard way I can store OO for very long.

I converted an Image of a Stained Glass Fox into an Intarsia pattern and attempted to use the SG colors as close as possible in my piece. Wood use: Bloodwood, Canarywood, Osage Orange, White Oak, and Wenge. Comments and critiques allways welcome. Edit: Replaced the Photo

I'll PM you.

This 24-inch diameter Tree Of Life was made from Jon Rigsby III’s 24-inch diameter Pattern. Although the cut pieces came together rather well, the Roasted Flame Birch selected for the darker sections of the tree proved to be a poor choice, as its breaking strength along the grain is relatively weak. This caused me to remake pieces that immediately broke when attaching leaves. It was also the major reason I decided to mount the tree on a plaque backer to prevent further breakage. Wood used: Bloodwood, Canarywood, Poplar, Roasted Flame Birch, Sepele, Yellowheart, and a premade round premium Pine backer that was enhanced with water-based color dyes. The entire piece is protected with multiple coats of clear semi-gloss Lacquer. Comments and critiques allways welcome.

aw, you're no fun!!

Looks Great, but what are you going to bury in it (read your post!).

I actually like them both equally. However, I have switched to the polycrylic almost exclusively because it is very compatible with Acylic paints I often use. Also, I can obtain clear acrylic spray from Hobby Lobby much less costly than lacquer. Also, no significant vapor odor from acrylics.

I'm jumping into this discussion very late, but I do not know why anyone would mount their Scroll Saw wood art under glass/plexiglass. Like original oil or acrylic paintings on canvas are not framed under glass, it has been my understanding, since I started this hobby, properly protected wood does not need to be protected in a sealed under glass dust proof frame. Not withstanding, dust proof framing is also a rather expensive process. On the contrary, wood art, like quality furniture, is a medium that is both visual and somewhat tactile. And, like quailty furniture, requires a durable protective finish like varnish, lacquer, urethane, polycrylic, etc. to resist fading, discoloring, warping, cracking, etc. Yes, exposed wood art will collect dust, but also like furniture, is easily dusted. The frame and glass used to protect wood art will collect dust and will also need to be dusted regularly. And yes, if left in an unprotected state, an oil finish will collect dust that is not easily removed, so it can be argued, the need for a sealed frame for an oil only finish. But why?, when hard durable protective finshes are available. Although there are many who will disagree, IMHO any kind of oil finish alone is not appropriate for wood art of any kind. All oil finishes require a degree of maintenance as the oil will eventually dry to a point where it is no longer protecting the wood. Admittedly I have not been in this hobby as long as others, but I have many pieces, that I have made, hung or displayed in my home, some since 2018, when I first started scrolling. None are under sealed glass. None have dicolored, faded, warped, cracked, or in any other way become damaged because they were not sealed underglass. All have been protected by multiple coats of either lacquer or polycrylic. And, they do not colect dust any more than other art and furnishing in my home. I will say that I do not allow any of my wood art or wood furniture to be exposed to direct sunlight as, no matter what finish is used, the UV from direct sunlight will have a damaging affect on any wood. This is just my opinion and my two-cents worth on the subject.

Nice work! Eagles are always a favorite subject. JFYI, the photo was taken looking slightly on a down angle which makes a lot of the cutting work disapear. I know you wanted to show the base, but I would have prefered to see the cutting work. IMHO, the photo should have neen taken centered on the Eagle and square to the vertical face of the cutting.

Very nice - well cut. Need to clean up the fuzzzies and other clinging debris before taking a pic.

Really, really nice. Very clea cutting! Looks a little bit mad that he is being disturbed while taking his bath.

If we have any members who live near, or have visited, Dahlonega Georgia and are familiar with Cavender Creek Vineyards and Winery, you will know the inspiration for this piece. I developed the pattern from a photograph of a Donkey that looks very much like one of the three Vineyards mascots. Wood used: Alder, Aspen, Blue Pine, Maple, Poplar, Roasted Birch, Sycamore, White Oak, White Oak (Quarter Sawn), and Wenge. Nom 10.5 x 14 inch Oval Comments and critiques allways welcome.

I created an 11’ x 13” Intarsia pattern for this piece from an free image found on-line. Wood used: Aspen, Aromatic Cedar, Blue Pine, Canary Wood, White Oak, Wenge and a store-bought Lure. The water was cut from one piece of discolored Aspen from the scrap pile and painted with my Airbrush. I also used my band saw to reduce the water pieces to create varying thicknesses. And, lastly, the white highlight in the eye was also painted. Comments and Critiques allways welcome.

Ya did good. Keep practicing with the AB.

Your work with a hand held fretsaw is magnificant. I love your painting skills also. The image is absolutely great. However, although the grain of the backer works as you mentioned, I don't think it works for the viewers eye. Unfinished plywood is just that, unfinished plywood, and that is all I see. Your original concept sounds much better. And, of course, the piece would then need a nice frame to finish it.

Assembly from Bottom up not necessirily, but that seems to be the easiest approach. For me I can start with the body, but for a small child it would be dificult. This was simple cutting so when the big bulky bandage got removed I was able to cut this without agravating the thumb. The rest was easy sanding and painting. No problems with keeping the thumb out of the way.

This is a Teddy Bear drop-in type Puzzle for my Lady’s new grandson. The pattern was loosely adapted from a Bruce Worthington Intarsia pattern titled ‘Teddy' that was reduced to only ten (10) individual pieces. The puzzle was cut with a Pegas #5 Skip tooth blade from ¾” thick premium pine, starting with one very small drill hole at an intersection so the remaining 10” x 13” wood could be utilized as the puzzle holder. A 1/8” thick BB Ply backer was applied to the back of the holder, the bottom edge of the holder was beveled at 30 degrees, and the holder was then attached to a ¾” x 11” x 5” thick base to create a tilted-back-stand-up display. The Holder was left natural. Each piece was sanded smooth with their edges slightly eased, had an Air Brush Acrylic Sealer/Primer applied, and was then painted with an Air Brush using Air Brush Acrylic paints. The holder and each individual piece was protected with multiple spray coats of a hard, durable, non-toxic application of a Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. Only wish I had a #7 or #9 blade for a slightly looser fit. Comments and critiques allways Welcome.