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Everything posted by FrankEV
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Nice work! Eagles are always a favorite subject. JFYI, the photo was taken looking slightly on a down angle which makes a lot of the cutting work disapear. I know you wanted to show the base, but I would have prefered to see the cutting work. IMHO, the photo should have neen taken centered on the Eagle and square to the vertical face of the cutting.
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Very nice - well cut. Need to clean up the fuzzzies and other clinging debris before taking a pic.
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Really, really nice. Very clea cutting! Looks a little bit mad that he is being disturbed while taking his bath.
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If we have any members who live near, or have visited, Dahlonega Georgia and are familiar with Cavender Creek Vineyards and Winery, you will know the inspiration for this piece. I developed the pattern from a photograph of a Donkey that looks very much like one of the three Vineyards mascots. Wood used: Alder, Aspen, Blue Pine, Maple, Poplar, Roasted Birch, Sycamore, White Oak, White Oak (Quarter Sawn), and Wenge. Nom 10.5 x 14 inch Oval Comments and critiques allways welcome.
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I created an 11’ x 13” Intarsia pattern for this piece from an free image found on-line. Wood used: Aspen, Aromatic Cedar, Blue Pine, Canary Wood, White Oak, Wenge and a store-bought Lure. The water was cut from one piece of discolored Aspen from the scrap pile and painted with my Airbrush. I also used my band saw to reduce the water pieces to create varying thicknesses. And, lastly, the white highlight in the eye was also painted. Comments and Critiques allways welcome.
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Ya did good. Keep practicing with the AB.
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Fretsaw project: Wacky Races - The Mean Machine
FrankEV replied to yamatetsu's topic in Bragging Rights
Your work with a hand held fretsaw is magnificant. I love your painting skills also. The image is absolutely great. However, although the grain of the backer works as you mentioned, I don't think it works for the viewers eye. Unfinished plywood is just that, unfinished plywood, and that is all I see. Your original concept sounds much better. And, of course, the piece would then need a nice frame to finish it. -
Assembly from Bottom up not necessirily, but that seems to be the easiest approach. For me I can start with the body, but for a small child it would be dificult. This was simple cutting so when the big bulky bandage got removed I was able to cut this without agravating the thumb. The rest was easy sanding and painting. No problems with keeping the thumb out of the way.
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This is a Teddy Bear drop-in type Puzzle for my Lady’s new grandson. The pattern was loosely adapted from a Bruce Worthington Intarsia pattern titled ‘Teddy' that was reduced to only ten (10) individual pieces. The puzzle was cut with a Pegas #5 Skip tooth blade from ¾” thick premium pine, starting with one very small drill hole at an intersection so the remaining 10” x 13” wood could be utilized as the puzzle holder. A 1/8” thick BB Ply backer was applied to the back of the holder, the bottom edge of the holder was beveled at 30 degrees, and the holder was then attached to a ¾” x 11” x 5” thick base to create a tilted-back-stand-up display. The Holder was left natural. Each piece was sanded smooth with their edges slightly eased, had an Air Brush Acrylic Sealer/Primer applied, and was then painted with an Air Brush using Air Brush Acrylic paints. The holder and each individual piece was protected with multiple spray coats of a hard, durable, non-toxic application of a Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. Only wish I had a #7 or #9 blade for a slightly looser fit. Comments and critiques allways Welcome.
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Fretsaw project: Wacky Races - Dick Dastardly & Muttley
FrankEV replied to yamatetsu's topic in Bragging Rights
Very well done. How do you paint? Looks too smooth for a brush especially on cheap ply. Is the black limes following the joints? -
Just posted my Belem Lighthouse in Intarsia/segmentation area.
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When time permits, I'll do some sample testing on various pieces of wood. The Ebonizing solution we use works well on Walnut to get a good solid black, but on pine, it just turns it a muddey brown. Out solutions need to have tannens added to work better on woods that hane low tannen properties. I can see a use for this on wood pieces cut for Intarsia that requires a Grey color as it does not hide the wood grain.
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I needed some weathered wood (like what you see on beach houses or old barn wood) for an Intarsia project, but could not find anything locally, and did not want to spend big bucks to order on line. Doning some research I came across this "Varathane Weathered Wood Accelerator" product and decided to give it a try on some cheap (but their premium grade) cedar fence slats from Lowes. It Works Great. $14 on Amazon. It is supposed to work on any wood. I suspect it is nothing more than a more sofistcated version of and ebonizing solution that a lot of us make and use. My homemade solution did not work as well on the Cedar. Spread it on, let it dry for an hour or so and it does its magic. A good solution for making rustic frames, or like I'm doing, making a Plaque style Backer for an Intarsia piece. Hope some may find this info useful.
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All wood will darkening over time if exposed to sun light. With good solid finish materials like Poly, Lacquer and Acrylic darkening will not occur for a long time. Finishes with UV protection can retard darkening even more.
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My 9” x 10 3/4 “pattern inspired by an Artist rendition of a Baltimore Oriole. Wood used: Aspen, Black Limba, Blue Pine, Osage Orange, Poplar, Sapele, Yellowheart, Walnut, and Wenge mounted on a 1/8” thick BB ply backer. Finished with multiple coats of spray Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. Comments and critiques always welcome. I will post the pattern in Pattern Exchange.
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I created this two layer Intarsia pattern with just a little help. The actual Dragonfly design was shared with me by Dave Monk who made the original as an inlay for a box top. Thanks Dave. Wood used: 1. For dragon fly - Aspen with application of Masters Pickling White and Roasted Flame Birch, 2. For the background scene panel- Black Limba, Blue Pine with an acrylic paint wash, Poplar, and Sapele, and 3. For the Frame: Ebonized Walnut. Note: The apparent simplicity of this piece is quite misleading as the actual assembly proved to be quite difficult. Comments and critiques allways welcome. I will post the pattern in Pattern Exchange.
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You need to be a little more specific. What kink fo lamp do you want to make? I have made a couple of Night light type lamps a while ago that I have shared the patterns for in Pattern Exchange. Here are pics of some. If this the type of lamp you want to make and you can't find my posting, I can send you the pattern any of these in a PM.
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Three full days in the shop and I was able to complet the Kevin Gagnon pattern for April/May PAM. I mounted this 11’ x 6” piece onto a 1/8” thick extended backer with frame. Wood used: Bloodwood, Blue Pine, Western Red Cedar, Poplar, Wenge, Orangeheart, and Maple Plywood for the backer with Basswood Frame. A dot of white paint was used for the bright spot in the eye. And JFYI, the Legs and pink claws are Blue Pine. Assembly protected with multiple coats of spray Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish.
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Found it in one of the online exotic wood websites. Not sure which at the moment, will have to go back to my files. I'm not positive the Orangeheart is not the actually the same as Osage Orange. However, the piece I bought is quite a bit brighter Orange than the piece of Osage Orange I originally purchased. May be just the board, not sure.
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This piece was completed just a few days before we left for our trip. I did not have the time to do a write up and post it. So here it is. I adapted a free Stained Glass Pattern into an 8 1/2” diameter pattern for Intarsia. The original art is by Leslie Gibbs. My pattern includes an optional Octagon Frame that results in an overall all 10 1/4” x 10 1/4” piece. Wood used: Aspen, Basswood, Poplar, Orange Osage (Orangeheart would have been a better choise), Wenge and Granadillo for the Frame. I applied an Acrylic Aqua Blue paint-wash with an air brush to the Basswood for the water and used rattle can spray Clear Gloss Acrylic for the Finish. Comments and critiques are always welcome. I'll post the patttern in PATTERN EXCHANGE.
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Such a short journey. Only ten years to become a master craftsmam, which you are in every way. Your work is truly of master quality
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Very nice work! Love the wood. But will it hold water?
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Here is a Cardinal - I know it is a popular Intarsia subject - I made from a 39-piece pattern I adapted from an image of a SG piece. The Cardinal and Flowers is approximately 8 ½” x 8 ½”, surface mounted on a 9 ½” diameter solid wood plaque style backer. Wood used: Aspen, Bloodwood, Poplar, Wenge, Mahogany, Yellowheart, and Sycamore for the plaque backer. The eye is a dot of white paint. The assembly is protected by multiple coats of rattle can spray Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. The following JFYI. I happen to be fortunate to find a couple of Poplar nom 1"x8"x8' boards at my local Lowes that had a lot of, the hard to find, dark green color heartwood. I purchased them and added them to my wood stock, so I did not need to enhance the leaf color with dye or paint. I attempted to add some sculpturing effect to the flowers and it resulted in some visable color variations after applying the finish that I had not planned on, but my Lady says looks good. She says they look like real Dogwood Flowers. The Bloodwood, like Padauk, makes very fine dust that sticks to and stains other wood, however, it is not quite as deep dark as Padauk and it has slightly more color variations that was needed for this piece. The photo makes the red look darker then is is in real life. Comments and critiques are always welcome. This will be my last new project post for about 8 weeks. Please check out my post in Coffee House. EDIT: Pattern posted in Pattern Exchange
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Thank you for the nice comments. Also, thank you for your 'Critique' as you often do. I really do appreciate when a viewer/reader responds with some "real" things to say...good or bad. Your interpretation only lacked a relevent comment on her embbarressing situation.
