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Insane Dust Maker

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Everything posted by Insane Dust Maker

  1. Thank you, your comment is truly appreciated.
  2. Thank you, for your comment, it’s truly appreciated.
  3. Thank you, your comments are appreciated.
  4. Finished this beautiful Russ Beard pattern, double stacked on 1/8” Baltic Birch Plywood, cut with Niqua #0 Pin Less Straight blades, needs to be Oiled and a framed. This will be my last cutting for a while I have run out of blades. It is what it is, circumstances.
  5. I have found out that jewelry suppliers keep micron thickness Brass shims, this would be ideal to shim the Dremel Plunge Router as discussed above using the ultra thin shims would make the plunge action a little “softer”. I did a test yesterday on double stack scrap 1/8” Baltic Birch, I measured from the left side and from the top and made a point where I want to drill, I then turned the wood around and did the same measurement on the bottom piece of ply, I then turned the wood face up and drilled the hole on the mark I made, then I turned the wood upside down to see where the exit was and it was exactly on the mark of the bottom piece, so I’m more than happy with this little mod if I am ever in the area where a jewelry supplier is I’ll buy some Brass shim to replace my mod but as is I’m happy. Drilled and cut about 50 holes yesterday with no problems at all.
  6. Just a friendly warning when pushing the shims in use a long nosed pliers to prevent cutting your fingers. And if you try this method and you not happy using it like this no problems just loosen the top screws lift the router top off and the two shims will fall out.
  7. Okay having a good look at the Dremel the slop is at the two chrome uprights as Wichman has correctly identified, what I did was I made myself two shims 1/2” x 3/4” put a slight curve in them along the length an push the in placed as per the attached photo. The slop was gone, the operation of the plunge is a much firmer operation which some people may not like. Drilling some test holes using scrap I tried to methods of doing the plunge, the first one I pushed down from the top it works well but as stated it’s firm but it drilled the hole where I wanted it. The second method is going to be my preferred option I pushed down on both handles and kept my thumbs on the shaft screws, as I finished drilling the hole I pulled the handles up but I let the thumbs do the work as I used them as a fulcrum, I found the quite easy and drilled a good test holes to make sure I was comfortable using it like this.
  8. Will do it’s not serious but I’m a little of a perfectionist when it comes to things like that.
  9. Browsing through the topics I came across Rocktime’s post of 28 April 2019, I have the same problem so I tried the Jam nut ( here in South Africa they are known by two descriptions a Jam nut or Half Nut). So I put one in and I definitely think it will work, I do have a concern though, I fully understand that you have to hold the Dremel right at the top at the cord entry and push down evenly, but did noice on the right side where the depth gauge is there is a little “slop” it gets better as you push the Dremel further down to drill point.Need to figure is there a way to get rid of this little bit of “slop”
  10. Exactly it was a good save on my behalf because I’m sure I would have damaged the motor.
  11. If the bearings are needle rollers and are not sealed then in my opinion it’s a serious design fault. If you consider the dust that these saws create it would be like a grinding paste to the bearings, all my bearings around my motor on my Wen are sealed. The bearing arms are where the phosphor bronze shots are and they must be oiled continuously.
  12. I recently posted a problem re foot switch that the one I was sold actually was a speed controller, which we all agreed would not work. I dismantled the switch removed the speed controller IC completely, I was left with just the switch, press down switch is on lift foot switch is off, tested on the scroll saw and it works fine. Saved myself a lot of money not replacing the foot switch.
  13. I recently posted a problem re foot switch that the one I eas sold actually was a speed controller, which we all agreed would not work. I dismantled the switch removed the speed controller IC completely, I was left with just the switch, press done switch is on lift foot switch off, tested on the scroll saw and it works fine. Saved myself a lot of money replacing the foot switch.
  14. There are Four oil grommets on the saw two top and two below, just pry it open with your finger and using a small oil can drop some oil into the cup of the grommet, this should be done regularly otherwise the phosphor bronze bearing will run very dry and start scouring, then you will have problems.
  15. Gees just got rid of a dual boot system with Microsoft. Will have to read up about it.
  16. Hi Don, from what I can understand there are a number of issues that needs to be resolved somehow. Firstly the pattern I imported from Russ’s site into One Drive is very soft, not sharp and crisp. Microsoft in their infinete has decided that the One Drive on my Mac irunning Catalina is not compatible and removed One Drive (nice guys got a back up). The later versions of Inkspace don’t run on Catalina, so I have asked the Inkspace Forum as to which version will run on Catalina and where do I find it. I used the pattern you sent me and Trace Bitmap did not work neither did Fill and Stroke, so I’m basically back to square one. The numbers on top of the pattern I did the screen shot of was from mail, because Inkspace and Apple IOS just don’t talk to each other. But I will keep trying to figure it out, Idont know if it has to do with the import, or the pattern is not accessible, I just don’t know.
  17. HI Don, here's my screen shot I'm using ver 1.0 0f Inkspace apparently that's the only version that works reasonably well on Mac Catalina 10.15.7. I'm no tech wizard and to some extent technology challenged, but in my mind there's something broke between Apple and Inkspace. This is a huge problem for me going forward in scrolling because I have to change the fill and stroke and fill to help while cutting.
  18. Thanks Don, I will send you screen shots of what I’m doing and we can take it from there.
  19. Don, that’s exactly what I want to do, as previously stated I need to help my eyes a bit and felt that if I darken the fill a bit and use a Red stroke, just slightly widened it would do the job. I have done exactly what you did only I used the posited pdf from Russ, imported in to Inkspace, highlighted the pattern, did trace bitmap, nothing happened, and I can’t adjust the fill and stoke, it’s so frustrating.
  20. As much as I would like to, and I understand and appreciate your help, but I can’t send you the pattern it’s a Russ Beard pattern - Viking Girl pattern #2023-039. I cut a lot of Russ Beards Fretwork Complex patterns and I would hate to break the trust I have built up with him. I just have figure out and understand why it’s not working and how to fix it, if I don’t do this then I won’t learn and be able to do it on future patterns,
  21. I’m still struggling to set the fill and stroke to help my eyes, followed the above instructions but it still does not work. Worki g on a Apple Mac ver 10.15.7 IOS and Inkspace version 1.3 it’s what works on theApple Catalina IOS.
  22. My board size is 11” x 14” hence I have to print A3.
  23. Thanks so much that’s going to be big help.
  24. Wichman how do I get to the February post?
  25. I thought it would have done that, but there is only the original pattern nothing on top and nothing to the side either.
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