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Millwab

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  1. Millwab
    Can’t show you a pic ‘cause that project is done and cleaned. Can't think of what else it could be besides the blade. I changed to a different blade for the next cutting and there was nothing. A few hours of cutting later with a few different blades and nothing showing. If it was something disintegrating I would think I would see it regardless of which blade I’m using.
  2. Millwab
    I was cutting something out today and the top of the piece was showered with what looked like very fine metal shavings. In 40+ years of scrolling I’ve never experienced this. I’m thinking they’re coming off the blade but don’t know that for sure. Anyone ever seen this?
  3. Millwab
    John, I’ve cut similar puzzles using pictures rather than the prop money. I generally use scraps of leftover plywood for these and by using pictures I can customize the size to fit the ply I have. I too make them two-sided and for an extra challenge I cut them with what I call my "figure 8" cut whereby all the pieces (except the outside edges) look the same. This one is 3”x 7” with 84 pieces.
  4. Millwab
    I’m a bit chromatically challenged too, and this one is the only one that stands out to me.
  5. Millwab
    Over the years I’ve collected a number of plastic pieces used to elevate the center of a pizza box lid. I use those to set patterns or boards (e.g. for puzzles) on to elevate them off the work table surface. As far as keeping the work table clean I cover mine with an oversized piece of cardboard. If it gets too filled with overspray just find another box.
  6. Millwab
    Charley, couldn’t you use the magnets on the bottom of the Wiley to align on the blade to zero it? Then if the table is @ 90 you know it’s perpendicular to the blade.
  7. Millwab
    That may be, but out of the first 6 projects I’ve had 3 failures of one kind or another. I’ve spent way too much time repairing these faults to risk buying it again.
  8. Millwab
    I bought a box of these panels to try and have been thoroughly disgusted with them. Nothing like being a few hours into cutting a project and hitting a void in the core or having the veneer chip off in large pieces. They may be useful to me if using the panel whole, but I won’t make the mistake of using them for fretwork again.
  9. Millwab

    # 9

    Millwab posted a topic in Bragging Rights

    This years' addition to my Norman Rockwell baseball themed puzzles. Number nine in the collection. It is a essentially a tray puzzle (hence no locks connecting the pieces) cut along the color lines of the picture. Overall 8"x10", puzzle approx 6" square, 55 pcs. If you are interested you can see the others (except for last years' - haven't gotten that one uploaded yet) here: https://heirloomwoods.wordpress.com/album-2/cards-and-puzzles/norman-rockwell/
  10. Millwab
    Larry, I find mine useful for not only spindle sanding, but I’m usually only making smaller pieces these days and the belt allows it to do double duty for me. Because of the travel of the belt you can use the entire length instead of only half with a disk sander.
  11. Millwab
    Marie, if your present stool works for you (other than your bottom not being happy) have you tried sitting on some type of cushion?
  12. Millwab
    Ralph, how about these puzzles (a Steve Good pattern). You’ll use 3 circles for each puzzle.
  13. Millwab
    I’m not sure cutting with a scrollsaw and routing would have the same effect. When cutting you are essentially separating the piece into two parts. With routing you are just carving out a piece. Haven’t done either with this material so I can’t speak from experience. I have glued up pieces of it to make a wider panel and that worked well. I used gorilla glue (urethane?) and just had to clean up the foam it created as it cured. That was many years ago and there may be better adhesives to use now.
  14. Millwab
    Kevin, what about using Trex (or similar) decking? It is practically indestructible as far as weather goes and I believe you can get it in different colors.
  15. Millwab
    This is true, but the hardest thing to get used to for me was mentally disconnecting what my feet were doing from what my hands were doing. With a modern saw you only have to pay attention to what your hands are doing. With a treadle you need to keep a steady rhythm with your feet regardless of how your hands are moving. Still enjoyable
  16. Millwab
    Kevin, you’re right they are a lot of fun. I managed to find one a few years ago that was complete and in running condition. I take it to our county fair to demonstrate scrolling in a building dedicated to crafts from the 1800s. Really gets some interest, especially from the kids, trying to figure it out. Along with a couple of educational posters about the history of scrolling and this particular saw I cut out some simple puzzles to show the saw working and then give them to the kids that show an interest. Mine is a New Rogers also made by Millers Falls.
  17. Millwab
    Kevin, is there a mill close by that would do the surfacing for you? If there is and their charge is reasonable it may be an option for you.
  18. Millwab
    Ray, WWGOA has had quite a few videos on using resin. See if this one helps, or browse some of their others … https://www.wwgoa.com/video/all-about-resin-017667/
  19. Millwab
    Dave, I get 16"x24" panels from Cherry Tree 1/4" Poplar Plywood | Cherry Tree Toys I physically can't handle full sheets of plywood anymore, so these work out well for me. As with buying any wood product on-line the shipping is a killer, but as your piece count goes up the cost/sheet goes down. I cut 100+ puzzles/year and have never had an issue with core voids with this product. Additionally I've found that it's much easier to cut than BB and easier on blades. Bob, according to their description all 5 plys are poplar. I'd be careful with plywood from the big box stores. Their 1/4" plywood typically has a single ply core. This is what burned me on my military plaques.
  20. Millwab
    Normally I use 1/4” poplar ply to cut my puzzles, etc. I decided to try PureBond's 1/4” plywood project panels for some military plaques I’m making and twice in a row I was 3-4 hours in when I hit a void in the core Hopefully I can salvage them but am totally frustrated with these panels. Back to the 5-ply poplar for me!
  21. Millwab
    For whatever reason the clamp always flew to one side so I didn’t need to block the other side. And it never came out the front so I could leave that open for my hand to get in. I like the magnet idea and may try that in place of the tape I’m using now.
  22. Millwab
    Bob, when I put my cardboard "fence" up it’s just taped to the side of the saw. I left the front open so I can put my hand in to change blades. No issues with blade changes and no crawling around hunting for the clamp and/or barrel.
  23. Millwab
    Bob, when the clamp goes flying does it usually go to one side or the other? When my lower clamp takes a joy ride it always goes off the right side of the saw. Getting tired of searching the floor for it I used a piece of cereal box cardboard to create a "fence" to contain the clamp. Since I put that up I haven’t had to look beyond the top of the saw whenever the clamp takes flight.
  24. Millwab
    Couple of my favorites. Both were my entries in a scrollers design contest. The regulator included compound cut finials. Both received honorable mentions.
  25. Millwab
    Tony, my combination is 1/4” poplar ply and 3M77 spray adhesive. I spray both wood and picture for a good solid bond. Then coat with Krylon Triple Thick Glaze and give it a day or two to set. I find the poplar is easier to cut and easier on blades (and the wallet). If you’re printing your own pictures I’ve found printing on photo paper gives you the best look and doesn’t have paper separation issues. If you’re using a pre-printed picture (such as a calendar) make sure the paper is heavy enough or the wood grain will show through. This has worked well for me cutting around 100-150 puzzles/year.
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