rafairchild2

I am probably a LOT SLOWER than you are... Mollassas on a mid-winters night slow. But in reality, it fits me perfectly. I can be very precise on my lines, not feel that I need to rush and bring out the true art. It won't look like CNC/Laser perfect, but one can tell it was hand-crafted perfect.

Photos or it didn't happen!

I'm with you James I am sloooow. But this is a great thinking and inventing exercise, so over thinking is a good thing. We're just fleshing it out. That being said, I like improving the design of things and also making modifications that will make my life easier. I do like the "Run-time" clock. For me, this is most helpful for maintenance. How many hours until I need to clean and grease for example? I used to train Apache helicopter pilots and maintainers on a radar system. Guess what... there is a mechanical 'hours' time on the main module, this way we knew when to do PM, but also MTBF (Mean time between Failures) as well. If I am interested in figuring out how long a project takes I just use my Android stopwatch. But usually, I forget to check it when I take breaks or stop...

That can be a bit of lost time for sure. Not only changing blades but the time you need when you are doing inside cuts. Stop, loosen chuck/blade, lift arm, pierce through drill hole, reposition blade, tension, then cut. The seconds/ minutes add up for complex pieces.

I am playing around with different designs of Welsh Love Spoons, James got me started when I saw his, and now I am just going nuts! I really like the cedar as it is really nice to cut and carve. And of course the smell. These are about 11" in length. The 2nd image I just cut out using spalted maple. (The backside is in the 3rd image) I had some Pegas skip tooth blades I wanted to test, I used 3 blades for the maple one. I saw a piece and just hand-drew this pattern. The penciled-in areas will be where I do the over-under/deep carving. I am going to try a rough carve and finish, sort of the 'Ol Rugged Cross thing. I had some scrap walnut and did a smaller pattern (two blades), you can see the backside in the 3rd image. I am not too keen on the Pegas skip tooth blades. They seem like a faster cut, but I do not like how the cut edges come out. The FD Ultra Reverse finish is so much better, and I have better control. Perhaps the Pegas lasts a little longer though. I figure with a couple of pieces already cut out, I can then sit down and do all my carving, shaping, sanding, and finishing at once. I really like making these Welsh love spoons. Now I have 3 pieces to carve and finish.

I buy FD Ultra Reverse from wooden Teddy bear, but get them off Amazon too, as I can get them in one day vs cheaper from Mikes but slower. I usually buy a gross of #5 UR (my go-to-blade for most of my work), and also a gross of their sampler UR pack, so I have small to large. I have a few other brands I tried out, but just find the control and smoothness of the cut makes me go with FD. But I am paying for the speed by a lot. https://amzn.to/44t1NCo - #5 UR $31 https://amzn.to/44rkCFY - Variety Pak UR $28 Image below, you can see my two packs handy-dandy on the wall next to where I scroll.

It's a nice wood to work with. Here's a neat article on making love spoons and includes a pattern. What I found interesting is that he carved the spoon bowl first, then cut out only the spoon section and then carved the back a little. Then went on to cut out the rest. It makes sense. It would have made my job a lot easier than how I did it clamping in my vice. The other interesting thing is he uses 1/4" thick wood. I used 1/2". https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/carve-a-tradition-rich-welsh-love-spoon

James... you've created a monster! I am now sanding an 11", red cedar love spoon... the same pattern as above, as the first one goes on my wall of "first tries". I really like the way cedar cuts and carves. Still sanding... I will check my FB messages.

I am molasses on a mid-winter day! I am very slow, but I nail my lines. My philosophy is practice does NOT make perfect... PERFECT practice make perfect.

I have a newer 21" Excalibur, and it is the same thing at about 80% or so. But I find there are one or two "chattering" spots in the speed. Harmonics might be the reason. I usually find I like working at lower speeds so it is not an issue with me. Before I got my Pegas chuck, I would get slight vibration at around 60-70%, above that it is annoying at different spots.

Yes, I too find it rather cathartic... Almost meditative. I always need something to slow down my mind. I like that I can get something done in a few hours, thus I can make quick gifts if needed. Also, I have such a pile of scrap, that I would like to make something from them. I did this one out of basswood, but I have other types of wood I would prefer to use on my next one. Thinking some cedar would be really nice. I just stained mine, waiting for it to dry. I think I prefer natural after all. But this was my experimental first piece, so I was a bit more bold. I will do another with the same pattern, different wood this week.

No way! I made so many errors in this and my unsteady hands are beginning to show. We can just push each other to improve upon our craft.

James Well, you inspired me to try my hand at a love spoon too! This is where I am at so far today. A combination of Scroll, hand carving, rotary tool sanding and edging, and mop sander to finish. Still smoothing things out before applying a finish. Nice I can use 'scrap' wood to create these.

Very nice so far!!! I have been thinking about doing this once since I made the spoon in my "Remy" intarsia project. Where did you get the plan? Do you watch Dai 'lovespoons' on YT?

Here's a new one I made yesterday that is a little chunkier to handle as he gets older. It is a variation of a Whale "car" that I make. I did away with putting wheels on, drilled the path for the dowel, then cut the circle to add the "bee hive" bead.

Better than expected! Quite honestly, it really sucks now.

It's always fun watching our progress as we do more and learn. My effort has been focused on always nailing my lines, this minimizes fine fitting. If you look at my cuts between the purple and white wood, this has zero fine fitting/sanding, no stacking etc.... Just accurate cuts to the guideline. I just concentrated really hard and went slow, slow, slow.

James, here's an idea for you for future models with magnets. Make a 3mm wide tab that goes across so it goes under the bottom blade holder safety arm. This is how I secured a piece of plywood, instead of that plastic sheet on my old collector. This way you have an additional way to secure. The only issue is how thick. I used 3mm wood, and when I ran my speed higher it would bang a little, thus I sanded grooves in to make it thinner. Not sure if I am clear in getting my idea out.

Sometimes, it's the simplest of scroll saw projects that bring the most satisfaction. My first (and only) grandson, Liam, playing with the rattle I made for him. What's cool is the clothing was given as a gift from a Turkish officer I work with at NATO. He's about to become a first-time father, and not only did I make a puzzle and a car for his soon-to-be baby, but a near identical rattle just like this.

In reality you really do not even have to remove the blade. Just loosen the bottom blade screw, raise your saw arm like you were going to get ready for an internal cut, so the blade is now above the table. Then follow my steps.

I just updated the photos in my post above with step-by-step instructions on how I did it under each image. Once the new collector is installed and hooked up, everything operates the same as the old. None of your blade changing processes or other operations change. This is like an OEM replacement, just better.

I was James' test dummy. If I can do it, anyone can do it! This is on my Excalibur 21". Yes, remove the blade as normal as if you were removing a dull blade. Then remove the 4- Phillips head screws holding on the old dust collector and remove the old plastic sheet too. Then slide the new collector in, replace the 4 screws and washers, connect your hose. I had to use a burr tool to widen the inside of the vacuum collector hose part slightly for my vacuum attachment (less than 0.1mm), as I use an inside adapter. But overall, it took me less than 10 minutes start to finish. Blade out, blade in. INSTRUCTIONS: Image 1: After removing blade, remove the 4 Phillps head screws and washers holding the old collector. Keep them as you will reuse them. Image 2: After any needed modifications to new collector, (minimal if any) slide into place and replace with the reused screws and washers. Do not torque down yet until after all screws are in, and everything is seated. Image 3: Slide the collector so screws are lined to the middle, then tighten screws. Do not over tighten. Image 4: Place your vacuum hose on the new collector. I did an inside adapter. You can also use an outer adapter instead.

You forgot your link to etsy... Hey.. who's the sexy hand model in your photos on your store? Love the stubby! https://www.etsy.com/listing/1497458276/3d-printed-scrollsaw-dust-collection

Slow down the speed of the blade. Make sure your blade is at 90 degrees to the table. Sides and back/front. Make sure you are not tensioning it too tight. Pluck to hear a high "C". By the same token make sure your blade is not tensioned to loose. No more than an 1/8th inch give when pushing your finger on the side. Do not push too hard. Feed the wood like you normally do, then just stop. Watch the blade, does it seem like you had pushed it back or to the side if it moves back to neutral position?

I'm on a roll. All of the above and this are creative commons. Free for your use, do not sell pattern. coasters - Beatles.pdf