rafairchild2

Okay.. I snorted on that one.

And this one Clock - Beatles2.pdf

Or this one Clock - Beatles3.pdf

Try this PDF. Free. Creative Commons. You can adjust so it is not a clock/or record. Clock - Beatles.pdf

Yeah, when I got the JGR flex drum on my bench grinder, I wore gloves as it is easy to skin the top of your hand/knuckles if you slip. But I do agree, it could potentially become problematic on power equipment. I have all my tools on dead-man foot switches. I always wear gloves when I am using my carving blades. I get mine from Amazon for $12.00 https://amzn.to/43VVqaM

Fixed it.

Very true, this is why I change my blades frequently. Remember too that heat affects the blade, thus another reason why I go slow and also use clear shelf liner (lubricates blade) that I put my pattern on. Remember going slow allows you to watch the drift and micro-correct so you stay on the line. Also, make sure as best as possible listen to the blade, you will hear more "chatter" as the blade dulls too. I have given up trying to turn on my 90 degree's, or really any sharp turns, I tend to do a "nibble", turn the blade, line up the next cut to get the most accurate and sharp cuts. See below how I nibble a turning spot, change direction and away I go.

Current progress - Starting to shape a bit more. Still need to fine-fit the chair and sand more.

Usually, I wear a level 5 cutting glove when sanding with my flex drum or belt when I am doing smaller parts. This time I slipped on the belt sanding a medium size part, I was trying to thin it out to 1/4 inch, part slipped, my fingers touched the belt nails only. Not the way to trim nails! No pain, no blood, but does feel a little strange.

The intarsia Queen... Judy Gale Roberts. She has since redesigned it slightly. But I also did my own take adjusting the design by adding some layers to the palm leaves and making the sun larger. I decided to stain the water and sky. Right now I am in the "fine fitting" stage, making sure all my pieces fit tight. The water actually came out on the first cut, right and tight, no need for fitting. The new piece between the water and sky, I just cut this am, and now fitting it. I will hopefully start shaping tomorrow a bit, then I need to cut out the crab that will sit on the frame (still need to make that out of canary wood), then "pickle" white finish the crab and the waves and clouds. , And of course, gluing it all up. I am taking my time, just a little at a time.

Yes, there is a science to taking down trees. A tree company came into our neighborhood, started one job, then wound up doing another 10 jobs! They were taking down monster trees well over 100 feet tall with 6-foot+ trunks. This is their climber, he's only 40 or 50 feet high in this image. I've watched him go over 100 feet up. They belay the top pieces down on top and take the big trees down piece by piece avoiding power lines, hours, etc.

It's a small world. I worked 15 years at the Family Life Ministries Youth Center on Campbell Creek Road. I lived in Dundee about 30 miles away just off Seneca lake.

Kanona NY, just outside of Bath NY, Finger Lakes....

Those photos were taken around 2005, early 2006 before I left that company when Lockheed recruited me. I moved away in 2006. I was told around 2012, they wound up getting the train out of there scrapping it as it was a "nuisance".

Actually, it really does not need to take much from the bottom, as a monster like that on top will take 95%+ of the dust. I have a smaller one and hopefully will be going larger myself. I also modified the bottom too, so I can get better dust collection from the bottom increasing the cross-vacuum flow. Here's my setup with a top vac.

Wow.. we think alike! I am working on something similar, but in addition to the eagle overlaying the flag, I also have the statue of liberty.

Here are a couple of other things I do to not only maintain straight lines but also curvy lines. Along with going slow, I stop frequently and let the blade settle in, you would be surprised at how much pressure you unconsciously add as you move along. Next, at least with Flying Dutchman Ultra reverse, I keep the "scrap" part of my cut to the right. I find that my blade cuts and drifts to the right. This way any errors as I am going along will always be in the scrap area and I can then correct them. Lastly, I use a 3mm piece of plywood about 1.5" wide and 10" long. I use this in various ways, but on long cuts, I put it to the back. This way I have a wider "grip" to steer my wood along the cut line. Below image 1: is how I use the stick in the back, of course, I would use both hands. If this was a small piece I might actually have it to the right of the blade to hold and guide the wood. This also keeps the pattern from lifting up too... bonus! Image 2: This is how accurate my straight and wavy cuts are. This is raw cut and other than a quick sanding mop to get any fuzzies off this is prior to any fine fitting. Note, each piece is cut separately, this is not stack cutting or match cutting, but just following the line on each piece's pattern.

And how many people remember using a pencil to get the tape back into the cassette when the player "ate" it? Now side tracking to 8-track cassettes, there are still songs I listen too, and remember the KATHUNK, when the player changed tracks in the middle of a song!

I find the key for me is to go really slow on the cut, slow down the blade speed, and really slow down your feed. I use a 5x magnifying glass, and as I guide my piece I watch the little 'bubble' of sawdust/cut just in front of the blade, I make it split my line. By going slow I can see what direction the blade wants to travel and I make micro adjustments so it stays right on the line.

Have not found any. I am shocked about that too. I live in VA Beach a city of 500k and nothing but generic crap.

Well, I do have some purple heart. I will try with a scrap and see how enhancing with "two drops" of blue will do.

Looks like a trip to Lowes is in store. I tried Home Depot and had no luck. Nothing at the local Wood Craft either.

My eldest daughter and husband (US Army Major) are traveling in Alaska right now. She just sent me a video message to wish me a happy FD, as I did not answer her calls... Guess I was in the workshop making sawdust when she called! Ooops... They are doing a helicopter tour. She actually spent 3 summers in Anchorage from age 15-17 working on a missionary airbase. She solo piloted while up there when she turned 16.

I used to do photography, but for some reason, I just lost the passion... the joy in it. I also digitally painted some of the images too. I worked professionally as a portrait photographer for 7 years starting in 1982. Then did modeling portfolios. I also like doing stage photography and bands. I mastered using the existing stage lighting. One of my favorite spots was an abandoned circus train within 100 yards of where I had worked for 15 years. it was burned out, peeling, and just amazing as a backdrop. Lots of photos following.

I am working on cutting out a beach scene, and cannot find a decent wood with blue in it. I was hoping to find beetle killed or something else like Poplar with blue highlights. I am getting a bit desperate and was thinking of using some lighter-shaded black limba and some watered-down blue dye or airbrush paint watered down, but that really goes against Intarsia from a purist point of view. Any suggestions?