rafairchild2

Welsh Love Spoons...

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Hmmm.. I had to think about this. I have a little within hand reach when I am at the saw. But I have a pick, a small piece of 1/4 inch wood, a small angle, sharpening stone I use on the blades right under the saw. (you can see the pick). Down below I have a lot more stuff, not really in hand reach. But my sanding and gluing box, and then a cup of different picks and scrapers. Also, when I spin my chair, I have my drilling, sanding, and carving station right there. However, I put all my tools away at night, after cleaning, oiling and sharpening, then take out what I am going to need just before I get started. Does that count? The devices behind me, are all foot pedal operated, I also put them on a vacuum switch, so that turns on a few seconds after I hit the foot pedal and then runs for 5 seconds after. You can see the black hose that I can move to each station to direct the vacuum suction. I also have hand held controllers for lights and the window a/c. (Mid-Atlantic here).

I carved the larger spoon and the one with hearts with gouges by hand. For the smaller walnut spoon, I used a Kutzall burr on my rotary tool. I have been experimenting with different techniques with different types of wood.

Does not really make a difference to me as I click on "unread content", then do a quick visual scan as to topics that interest me. Open those in new tabs.

Ahhh.. now I see how the divots are done. Not what I was thinking when I suggested the drill. In this case a spiral blade might be a good option, or a #3 or smaller depending on what you can control best.

Man... the only calls I seem to get are from the "IRS", the local "Sheriff", and the "FBI". I lose track how often they keep calling me!! I still wonder why they hang up, when I threaten to do things to their mothers and sisters. I actually just bought a cheap lighted Tabletop Light box with 4 different color backgrounds to photograph my finished pieces. Pretty much the only thing I use my cellphone for now-a-days. My old digital Canon SLR has been in the closet since 2009.

Well, as people have noticed I have been quite the Welsh Love Spoon maniac of late... All thanks to James WeIch! I said I was going to take a spoon break (I lied and posted those) and do some clocks. Well, here is one that I just completed yesterday, just waiting for the finish to cure so I can do a 3000 grit final sanding. I also decided to fit the brass finish clock insert vs the silver. It is made out of oak, ang finished with Old Masters satin polyurethane gel. Rocking chair clock measures 6h x 5d x 6w Pattern comes from the Fox Chapel book: Miniature Wooden Clocks for the Scroll Saw ps: I have four more clock inserts, so I need to make some more

I agree with drilling the dimples, rather than cutting. Drill just a hair down. Most drills will give you a bit of a pointy end, but some sandpaper on a dowl the right size with the end rounded could be your answer. Experiment with some scrap wood. Note these bits, no more than a 1/16 or 1/8th inch should do the trick.

I think we need to start an "addiction" thread. As I looked at your mini-bird houses, I was thinking about how I recently became addicted to Weslsh Love Spoons. I wonder how many other people veer off for a while and just obsess over one thing.

Nope, no debate, you made that clear for sure my friend. I was just saying that I had similar issues and observations. Remember Occum's Razor simply states that the simplest explanation is preferable to one that is more complex.

This weekend, I again tried the Pegas #3 modified Geometry blades on my two new spoons. Walnut (3/4") and Black Limba (1/2"). Switched to a #5 on the 3/4" Walnut. I had some issues with the blades getting caught and thus being pulled out of the chuck a few times, bent badly, but no breaky. Sanded the blades at the point of chuck contact, etc... Because I do not use clear contact paper when I will carve after, (vs all other times) I use a removable spray adhesive direct on the paper to the wood, so I lose some lubrication of the blade. I did turn my machine way down as I find the Pegas Modified Gemonitry to be fairly aggressive, but I have to admit sharp. Still, I favor the Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #5 as my go-to blade, but I think for me there is some utility in using the Pegas on some types of wood/projects. Like everything in the scroll saw the world, each person finds their own preferences and go-tos. There really is no wrong answer.

BTW, this was my other spoon I finished with the above, made of Black Limba. Did all the carving by hand on this one. This too was finished in raw Linseed oil.

Since I still had a bit of the walnut slab left, I made another (smaller) version of the spoon as there wasn't enough material for a full-size one. I made the "bowl" more modern and deeper than the primitive bowl. Here is an image comparing the two. Actually, it was quite quick to make and finish as I used the flex wheel sander to shape the handle and the back of the bowl. I decided to use my rotary tool and Kutzall bit to carve out the bowl. Finished with raw linseed oil.

I have the same WEN belt/ Disc Sander! I also have the 20x1 inch belt/ Disc sander. I mainly use it for stropping my carving tools. But it is quick to change belts, so I use it for my smaller pieces, and it is right by my carving station. We need to come up with a better top vac too. I was thinking of something that sort of wraps around the blade area in a horseshoe shape. Still working it out in my mind, as it needs to adjust to the thickness of the wood.

I wear big clunky bifocals made from shatterproof lens material. Additionally, I always use my 5x magnifier, which is another barrier. From there, I have a WEN air filtration unit going as well as my filtered a/c that blows across me and keeps dust in the air moving away from me to the WEN. Of course, I have top and bottom vac to get most of the dust away. many people just use the 'puffer' and that blows dust right on you for the most part.

Here is a piece I just finished. More sanding to shape than carving, just playing with different techniques. The only carving was the bowl. I included a couple of photos of the slab of 3/4" dark walnut I cut it out from. You can also see the amount of shaping and sanding I did in the last image.

I did an experiment with blades this past weekend. Pegas, Flying Dutchman and Niqua. I found the #3 Pegas RS and the Modified geometry, although very sharp to be very aggressive in its cut. The #3 was harder to control vs the #5. Niqua is a rebranded Flying Dutchman. What I have found over the last 100 projects I have worked on, that I tend to go-to the Flying Dutchman #5 Ultra Reverse as my 'every-day blade". I control it very well from 1/4 to 3/4-inch wood. it cuts clean with no fuzzies, no need to sand my cuts either, saving time. It is not as aggressive as the Pegas, which fits my slow cutting style. That being said. Get yourself a mix of blades to experiment with, you will find what WORKS FOR YOU.

From what I see you need to slow your blade speed down a bit, and also slow down how fast you feed your wood to the blade. Go really slow, let the blade do the work, do not push. Pause frequently and back up a little. Speed will come later. Blade speed you will need to adjust depending on thickness and hardness of wood. Also, try using real wood as that looks like a composite. The glue will mess you up as you learn right now. Baltic Birch plywood is another good learning wood. Start with 1/2 inch. The thinner the wood, the tough it is to control at first and you get those blowouts you see on some of your lines. The main point is GO SLOW... nail those lines splitting them perfectly. Going slow you will also get smooth lines, focus on those two things first. Plan your cuts and turns too, know in advance if you are going to back up, change directions, do a nibble cut, or sweep into the waste area and then turn back to nail a 90 degree. Note the 3rd image and how I go past my line into the waste area and nibble out an area where i can turn my blade to the opposite direction. This way I get really sharp corners. Also, if you do not have a 5x magnifier I would recommend one. (4th image) See the image below. I go REALLY slow to nail lines.

For me it is a few things. I hear a tonal change in how the wood is cutting, I also find that the blade starts to drift more and becomes more difficult to control, and I also find that I am pushing harder, or I have to turn the speed up more. Really, it is something that comes the more you cut. Just talk to yourself as you cut, and note how the blade works when new, and after so many inches or minutes of cutting (depending on wood hardness too).

Well... Richard Axiom of Life #1. People are Stupid. The corollary to Axiom #1... The Masses are Asses.

Here's an idea for you. Create a downloadable PDF "Template" with the various sizes of your clock cutouts. This way, you can encourage customers to download and print the 8.5x11 sheet, and then place it on the piece they need the insert for. This might reduce some of the returns. Now you need to make that horse drink the water...

A true heirloom piece... A work of art. A great team effort!

I am still thinking about selling my work. But I do have an opinion as someone who used to do portrait photography for over 20 years professionally. For hand made products I think this name your price concept is BS. Talk about cheapening your efforts and art. If I want to play bidding wars on my pieces, then I would just list them on eBay. It all comes down to pricing your products AS YOU see fit. I am still learning that. I know what I would like to get for my work ([materials $$ + [time*$$/hr]]). But I know for example, I could not sell my love spoons for $100+. Still, I do not want some yahoo lowballing an item. If I put 6 hours into something and they offer $10, do you think I would want to accept that?

I have been making toys, puzzles and other items mainly as gifts to this point. I have played around in my mind perhaps offering some of my toys for sale. I would start with my simple toys, that are quick to make, and I could also make a small supply in advance. That being said, what would you charge for the 6 wheeled toys as shown below. Like all my toys, I do not put any finishes on them. As a follow-up... How much would you charge for any two toys and a newborn rattle showing in the other photo? Now the fly in the ointment: In the back of my mind though I hesitate offering toys for sale for a few reasons, the main being liability and litigation. Although I make sure parts are smooth, have no toxic finishes (child safe) and everything secure, I always wonder if something happens if it could come back to bite me.