rafairchild2

Well, I have two belt/disc sanders of different sizes, and I have two drill presses of different sizes. I still have my 21" Excal, tucked away. I should find some space for it and perhaps just put a #9 FD UR blade on it for some quick cutting and then the 30" Pegas for my fine work...

Okay, so I quickly did a prototype with the boat tail taper and the little people cut down and glued into place for safety. I had some canary wood cast off so I used that. I like this... A few more tweaks, but overall fast to cut, drill, and shape. This is how I spend the last day of my 5-day leave...

I have my bits drilled and sitting in a block of wood, this way I can take whatever I am fitting and just slide it in. I have my axle pegs, slightly tight and only need a slight tap of the hammer, or I use my bench vice. I have a space inside between the pegs for the glue to seep. I am trying to build these as strong as possible so they pass the 10x drop at 4.5 feet on cement. This is the test for Child Safety certification. So my tolerances are on the tighter side. NOw if I do a full axel, then of course the holes are somewhat loose for the axel to spin vs the wheel and glued peg.

Thanks all, I had an idea this am as I was working on finishing up my last 6 cars, and thought what would happen if I did a "little people" driver? Looked for some inspiration, and then went into Photoshop. I liked this 1950's Alfa (or Ferrari), very quick to cut out. It is somewhat similar to Steve's. So this is one of two prototypes, but one broke in 1/2 due to the way I did the grain out of scrap maple. (I am gluing it back together and it goes on my 'learning' shelf. I went a little too deep with the driver hole on one of these pieces. I think next time I'll go 1" thick, scale up a little more, and then make more of a boat tail taper on the back. I am also going to cut down the little people so he sits lower and also glue him into place. My concern is a choking hazzard for young kids, and also that is an easy piece to lose. Like this inspiration in the 2nd photo.

I didn't get any photos with the rotary tool. Just trying to get a little more shape on the head and shoulders. But here is more of the process after the rotary tool. (image 1) I use a soft barrel sander to shape the 'fenders', (2) rounding out the top (front and back) and profiling the underside a little. I can do the car in about a minute or so this way. The shaping really makes this stand out vs the sharp 90 degrees. The other thing I did was cut down on how high the windshield and neck brace from the pattern. I found that not rounding it will leave it prone to breakage. (3) Back on the mop sander at 220 grit, to get out any marks. (4) Finally, I add some gorilla glue to the axle holes and then tap pegs into them, the fit is somewhat tight, so some light tapping works. I can also use the clamp on my workbench to push them in. I am figuring out a jig, so I can get consistent results and do it quickly. I use the mop sander again on the wheels to spin them, and also smooth them out again. At 900 PRM, it's also sort of a test to make sure the wheels spin freely, and also stay on.

Actually, on Saturdays and Sundays, I am in the shop by 6 or 6:30. I am taking 5 days leave right now so I have been going in the shop early. On yard work day, I'll come in, shower, eat and nap. usually after my 30-minute nap, I might put an hour or more back in the shop. I wound up not taking my nap, so I just did 2 more hours, but I need to get my 30 minutes...

Rubber mallet or my boot and the toobafors kick right out

As many of you know my "Poppy's Workshop" makes toys and donates them to organizations, helping children in need. My current big project is 125 toys for a local organization here in Hampton Roads VA, that helps out with kids with cancer. I am a little behind the 8-ball due to my eye injury early this year and then my summer stoppage. I am about 1/2 way there and have until October, so it should not be a problem. I finished another 20 toys this week (photo 1), and now working on another dozen race cars. I am doing 3 or 4 at a time, so this way I am not left with a big pile of unfinished pieces. It also gives me a sense of accomplishment when I get stuff done, rather than a bunch in 'production'. That being said, I am working on a modified Steve Good design, the first 2 cars you see with the walnut sides, are more along the way of the original design (minus the number). I like this, as the interior is 1/2", and the sides 1/8" each. I can shape the head before gluing, and I think it comes out nice. However, that is more cutting, and then gluing up, which almost doubles production time. So I am opting for a single piece of 3/4" wood. It does make shaping the head a little tricky, but I am working on a process, of sanding on my 1x30 sanding belt, for the rough shape, then using a Kutzall bit to shape the head a bit more. It is still abstract, but it works for me. Images: (1) 20 finished from earlier this week, (2 & 3) from single and glued sides, (4) On the scroll saw, #9 FD UR, (5) Rough cut, (6) This is how I set axle length quickly with a spacer (7) Rough shape, (8) The rough shaped blanks Next will be the rotary tool to shape the head to the finished shape, then on to the barrel sander to add curves to the body of the car, then mop sand, and then the wheels. I will be doing this after my lunch and nap, so this is the start.

Very nice! I skipped Halloween and went right to Christmas!

I put my 31" Pegas saw on a General Tool service cart. Even though I locked the wheels I felt a little more vibration and movement than I wanted. I am a purist when it comes to having a solid platform. That being said, I knew I would not be moving it too often but still liked the flexibility of wheels. So I took some toobafor's (That's how we say 2x4 out here), and cut them just a little more than my wheel clearance to raise it ever so slightly. I did 6, and wedge them in tight. Works great no vibration. If I ever want to move it, just kick them out, move my table and wedge them back again.

So here's the frame cut out, just a few touch-up sanding points as it is a tight fit on a couple of pieces, then comes profiling which will make it look better, and hide my bobbles. You can see some of the 'indexes' I cut, this way pieces hold in much better and give a couple hints on some of the pieces. If you look at the 'scrap' wood, you can see where I used some of the waste areas for blade turns. I was using the 9 FD UR, should have gone with the #5 I would have gotten sharper turns on the star. I will be staining the frame once it is glued up. Pieces will get the linseed oil dip.

Okay, got all the pieces cut out, and will be profiling them shortly. But first is the frame/tray. I am going to cut the perimeter first as I have a 4mm piece of baltic birch as the backer. Then I will take them apart and do the inside cuts. I plan on trying to save the interior so I can have all the pieces from that 'scrap', perhaps I'll paint them. You'll see some pencil lines, I plan on cutting 'indexes' in what would normally be scrap areas, and blank. First, I am taking a nap!

I saw a picture and made a pattern from it. I am not selling this, just making for the grandson.

I am taking 5 days leave from work, as I am #1, tired. Also, come September things are going to get nuts at NATO, per usual this time of year, as new military personnel arrive, and other folk come back from leave. So this is not Intarsia or Segmentation, but I use some of the same techniques, thus my posting here. In particular, I use intarsia cutting techniques, so the exact line cuts so pieces fit as if they were cut from one piece of wood. In reality, this is how I cut all my work. I strive to cut my lines accurately. This is a nativity puzzle that will be a gift for my grandson. I will use 11 or 12 different species of wood for this one. It's a great way to thin out my cast-off pile. As you can see by the photos, I start with 5 or 6 copies of the pattern and then cut out and glue up each piece with a pattern part. I am using Elmer's repositionable glue, as I did not want to use shelf liner and #m spray. I put the pattern on, cut, then immediately take the remaining pattern off. I am using a #9 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blade. This gives me a very large kerf, so all I need to do is split the line and it will all fit together as you can see from my stopping point tonight. Each piece will have its edges profiled slightly on both sides, as that visually makes it look better vs the 90-degree that you see right now. I intend to show you the progress of this nativity, as I work my way to the finished product.

Pretty much after EVERY session, I wipe down, do a quick PM if needed, oil if needed (usually my oily rag), and put tools back in their proper place. I use a comprehensive dust handling system so generally, I do not get a buildup of dust. There are times I am doing a lot of toys or some intricate pieces, and I let things fall to the wayside for a couple of sessions. Come Saturday or Sunday, I'll make sure everything is put away and I will take my gas blower and just give the place a thorough puff of air. I might use my compressor and get some of the smaller areas, it all goes out the large garage door. I think it was on one of the FB groups, lord I hope it was not here, I mentioned that I clean after each session, and some a-hole came back with some rude comments and said he would rather cut more than waste time cleaning. I was always taught to keep tools cleaned, oiled, and stored in their proper place. My tools last a long time. To me, it's all about respecting the tools and your workspace. This was hammered into me by my father and shop teachers in school.

I used to live in Columbia "City" back when they were first building it out! It was 1967/8 when we moved there. I was in 1st grade. We were one of the first residents to move into the new city, sub 100th. I remember we lived in an apartment building on a lake that had a waterfall/dam. I used to walk to school, Brian woods or something. There was a publc pool nearby. And a nearby daycare my mother worked at. I remember later on my first-grade teacher eventually became a principal of a high school. Mrs. Hill. I had my photos with my sister taken at Symphony Woods. That's all I remember.

Started with a WEN 16", quickly installed the pinless adapter. But within 3 months I sold it ($10 loss), and bought an Excalibur 21" added the Pegas Chuck. After a year things went wonky with it and I could not cut a straight line, no way i was tracking my pattern line. You might remember the thread on troubleshooting it. I think I finally got it settled down, but during that time I decided to go for the Pegas 30" and have been using it since. Like my other two saws, I added a 3/4" Loc-Line top vac. I have a removable magnetic sheet when I am doing small parts. I turn off the bottom vac through the blast gate and add a screen inset to my top vac. This way small pieces do not get sucked away with the dust. First photo: Here's the 30" before getting everything trimmed up and moved into place replacing the Excalibur in the background. Second photo, my current setup. The excal is now a back up saw. I may set it back up and keep a thick blade on it for thick cuts. And cutting wood to rough size.

Still need to tweak how I will string the lights, but this is pretty much what it looks like completed. Thanks for following this thread. Overall I am very pleased with this piece. I think next year, I'll stack cut these out of Mahonany or Canarywood.

Thanks for checking in Katie, I am also one of those who backed off the site a bit, and for the last few months have not been scrolling much until a couple of weeks ago. I think my eye injury earlier this year took the wind out of my sails. Also the lingering effects of covid lockdowns, mentally caught up with me and my minimal sleep high tempo life, just finally broke me mentally. I hope your husband can get that kidney. I was going into a reduced kidney function down 60% a few years back. After going to the specialist.. well the physician's assistant, there was no physical damage to the kidneys that could be seen on the ultrasound. So I figured it was the Aleve (serious arthritis pain I was masking) I was taking reducing the O2 to my kidneys and damaging them. Thankfully after a year or so of no OTC meds or vitamins, I was able to get most of the function back. That and only drinking water. No other type of liquid. It's sad you felt you had to stop teaching shop. That is a great loss for the students, but I am happy you landed on your 'feet'. But perhaps there is a local 'makers' place that you can setup and teach those who want it. Today, I just packaged up one of my most recent art pieces for a HS classmate of mine (1980), Her father, Mr. Reubello, was my drafting, architecture, and design teacher. The next room over from his room was the woodshop, the teacher there was his best friend until his death... I was in woodshop the 4 years I was in HS. Even during my study halls, I was allowed in there to do special projects for Mr. Marcilli. Both Mr. R and Mr. M had a major influence on my life, even today. I am forever grateful. On my poppysworkshop website, I have a dedication to both of these men. So yes, there are students who still think highly of their teachers... Granted it's been 44 years since I graduated. Prayers for your husband.

So here's what happens when you apply raw linseed oil. I love how the walnut comes alive! That rich chocolate brown! Look above at the photo when clamped to see the comparison. Just after this photo, I took a folder paper towel and worked it between the layers to remove excess oil. Otherwise, I hand wipe with old cloth towels. I am going to let it sit for an hour, and wipe it down again, let gravity do its job. Now I will let it cure for a week, a quick 3000 grit on the facing surfaces and a silicone tack cloth wipe, then the lights go on it. PS: my 30-inch Pegas saw in the background!

I would like to add a personal opinion here. And yeah, this is probably snobby... I think once this is finished with the linseed and the natural walnut color/grain comes out, you can see why I am so against using softwoods like pine, or even worse plywood. It never ceases to amaze me that people will cut intricate designs that take hours and hours, days and days, but cheap out on the wood. The finished design is beautiful, but the wood used cheapens it in my eyes. Insert the snob comments here. Flame proof undies are on. Yeah, I am kicking myself for not stack-cutting this, but I fought the urge since it was my first time creating this. Next year I will probably do a double or triple 1/4" Mahogany run.

I took elements of some outlines from Pinterest and then added some of my own elements, like the snowman. Not sure if it is Kosher to share though. I also made a lot of penciling changes to the design as I was cutting to make stronger branch connections.

More progress at 5 AM today... Dry fit and test the lights, then glue up. I am using the black/orange clamps to not only raise the base up, so the blue Erwin clamps can apply vertical pressure, but since the orange clamps... clamp hard, I am using them as guides for the mating of the pieces. The blue clamps are my downward pressure to the base. I took some cast-off wood, and I am using that to apply pressure across the whole scene to the base. I also used my wide belt sander to make sure the pieces created an even and level surface for mating to the base. After the glue drying, there will be one final touchup of hand sanding and dust cloth, then raw linseed oil finish. Let it cure, then the lights get placed back in. I already lasered my logo on the bottom.

I have been working on this over the last 3 days. I have about 6 cutting hours into it, I go slow. Cut from 1/4" walnut. First photo: I am just holding it together with the 1/4" spacers between the layers. Third photo: I have it all clamped up right now after gluing. Tomorrow I cut and shape the base, and glue that up before dropping it into linseed oil to bring out the chocolate hue. Second Photo: You can see that the trees are very fine and detailed, thankfully nothing broke. I still have all my fingers too! As I was working on the piece I closed some of the branches so there was better support, made a lot of changes to the design on the fly. I used #1 and #3 Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse Blades. The plan is to add a string of multi-colored micro LED 'fairy' lights between the layers. I enjoy making these layered pieces. When I get it together and lit, I'll post that, and then another after the final linseed finish.

There were a few Christmas pieces I did last year. Are you talking about German candle arch? That is Volker Arnold. You can get his designs from his US distributor: woodyoubelieveshop.com/ The others are NW950 Large Nativity tree pattern and NW4224 Layered Village Scene pattern by Sue Mey. You can get them on her website or SueScrollsawartist Etsy store.