rafairchild2

Next thing you will want to do is add a top vac. I used 3/4 loc-line off amazon, then throated to a 2.5 inch pipe to my dust handling system. I also put my cart up on some 2x4s since I do not need to wheel it around much. That gets rid of vibration.

Buy a dead mans switch. Amazon has some WEN foot switches that work quite well. $12. You want to stop and start the blade yourself just by lifting your foot, better control of what you are doing. https://amzn.to/4gNvaWA

My last batch of Christmas items for this year. 1/2" cherry, cloth napkin holders. FOr some reason I decided NOT to stack cut. Going to use them for dinner this week for my almost 2 y/o grandson.

Frank... Someone needs to be better at cleaning his firearm. I recommend Hoppes #9....

Younger generations are not into tchotchkes, collectables and such. Clocks are pretty much a thing of the past other than what is on your oven, microwave oven, and your smart speaker by your bed. I look at my daughters homes and they are very sparsely decorated with minimal wall art, and even less things on tables, desks, etc. Sadly, our art is dying along with us.

Yesterday I did a compound cut out of one of the ornaments for charity books. this one is by Travis. I realized that by adjusting the side cut, you can make 3 ornaments out of one slab, so in essence a stack cut in a way. Cyut the PEACE side first, then cut the 3 side cuts.

Yeah that was a BIG ta-doo when they unveiled that monstrosity. What an insult to LB... Sigh...

One more from an Ornaments of Charity Patterns file. Compound cut, made from Walnut.

A couple from the "Ornaments for Charity" patterns for 2024. Did this this AM, stack cut. The Dove is mahogany. The angel is canary wood. Finished with Beeswax and coconut oil.

For sure it is bloodwood if it is dulling blades quickly.

Bird looks like bloodwood. Was it hard to cut? Bloodwood has a very high Janka.

3 Layer, with colored rice size LEDs I really like doing layered and lit projects. Last year, I did the much larger one. I really like working with walnut, it cuts and finishes well, and that chocolate color when I apply the linseed oil is phenomenal.

SAme here, bought some, tried to use them and said... Nope... Just use a Flying dutchman ultra reverse and you will never need to do inside sanding.

Welcome from VA Beach VA. edit... Oh my, didn't realize this was from 4 years ago!!! You certainly are an "Old Hand" at the craft. I look forward to seeing what other works and advise you bring, and hope we can do the same for you. Although I do worry about those heavy chains on the drill press! Is there something you want to share with the class? Like you I am getting ready for retirement, but made the decision a few weeks ago, to work at NATO for 2025 and then decide at the end of the year if I want to go another year. I like what I do, who I do it with and the money. It keeps me busy and is only 8 mile commute. It gives me structure and purpose.

Pity you were not detailed in where you should spray Thanks for the know how.... bravo.

Which points are you recommending lubing?

Mainly I print on paper as I prefer my lines to be magenta, with a 10% fill for the areas not being cut out. I also want my lines to be 1 point so I strive to be super accurate when looking through my 5x lens. All others have mentioned the accuracy of lines, etc... so no need for me to rehash. Also the color/darkness of the wood is critical too for penciling in lines. That being said, I created a bunch of standard 4 mm birch templates of some of my simpler/popular toys. When I finish cutting another patterned piece I will, look at the waste area, and see if one of my templates will fit it, so I can cut out a toy blank. Otherwise I try and create square/rectangle blanks for other projects too. Anyway, I lay my template down and pencil it right in, I use my engineers pencil that works well, I need to see if I can find some red lead and see if I can get a brighter line. Many times I am penciling in on the left over paper template, so visibility is not an issue. Below #1: Through the lens with 1 point line and 10% magenta fill. #2 My "scrap" templates, used for reclaiming 'waste'. #3: Last night's Thai Dinner... with Shrimp, Thai Sausage and Red Pork, in Thai fried rice. I am getting 3 or 4 meals out of this! Oh yeah spicy level 3 out of 5.

Well, earlier this year in TX https://www.foxnews.com/politics/hailstorm-destroys-massive-solar-farm-sparking-fears-of-chemical-contamination

I got this from Amazon for under $30. 5x magnifier and adjustable LED (Brightness, temperature) https://amzn.to/4hlNNBt

I got creative. I found that a powdered caffeine drink, the tubes they came in fit perfectly in my Excal and my Pegas holders. Also, they came in different colors.

Thanks, Don. I actually did a live YT stream this AM of me doing the test Bishop piece. All the fun stuff too! Struggling with the 3.5 until it breaks, to getting all the small pieces ou to the final reveal.

I am lucky. My daughter and SiL bought a house 3 doors down from us... WHen he is able, he'll be able to run over to Nana and Poppy's house!

@Dave Monk @BadBob @don in brooklin on @barb.j.enders - Here is my first test chess piece. It took just under an hour... I started with a #5 FD UR blade, but after that broke... plus it was slow going... I went up to a #7 and it worked a lot better. I think I could get away with a #9 on some of the easier pieces, but overall I am pleased with my first attempt. Still, a lot to master. A few more practice pieces to go. I took Don's tip and left some wood at the bottom, and that was the final cut. I did not have my table saw set up, so I did it on the scroll. And this was a 3x0.50 glued-up aspen. It worked well. Not sure how much the gorilla glue affects the cut though, granted it is 2 thin layers, but I would think it has a similar effect like cutting plywood. One question. After you do your inside cuts, do you trap those, or do you clear them before doing the perimeter cut? It was a bit hairy getting the pieces out after I completed all the cuts. I left everything trapped. PS: Now I wait for my 'real' 1.5x1.5 stock to come in so I can start on a set for real.

I would love to see more of how you do this. What do you mean by "trap"? I assume you cut drill hole to drill hole, then remove and flip, this keeps all pieces together. DO the same on the other side, then cut the bottom off.

That is so sad. At least she could donate them, or drop them off at the local Salvation Army (or equivalent) store, so it can live on with some other child. I am making a few heirloom pieces for my grandson (and soon to be another). The everyday type toys, when outgrown I would expect some to be donated, and a few to be put away for the great-great-grandchildren after I am gone from this world. I hope when my GS reaches 6 or 7, he can be working by my side learning how to make toys and other wood art.