rafairchild2

Generally, I make sure that the blade is well-tensioned. I scuff the sides of it as well. I recently changed out the thumb screws thinking they might be worn. It just seems odd this started all of a sudden. I am very consistent in how I do my setup and tensioning. That being said, I am taking all suggestions and giving them a try. See my post below in a few minutes. I just ordered a Pegas Chuck Head renewal kit, just in case that is an issue.

Simply stunning work... Makes me wish I kept playing chess.

Yes, I just removed them before this photo. That held the plate for the wood hold down. So in this case, it does not affect things. I wanted to get my angle as close to the blade for the parallel adjustment. That being said, I reinstalled the plate. So far, I have checked the upper and lower rocker arm bolts, just tight enough to not come off, and have minimal slop when not tensioned. I made sure I did not over-tighten as to slow down the motor. Checked the parallel of the arm to the table front to back. Within 1.5 mm front to back. Checked the level of the table and the level of the arm horizontally, left to right. Spot on. Made sure my blade chuck holds the blade dead center top and bottom chuck Made sure the blade when tensioned is dead 90 degrees to the table I am going through checking other nuts and bolts, making sure that when the arm is up, it stays up. I use two hands to raise and gently lower into place.

Yes, this is the Chinese-made Excalibur. I had a WEN 16, and was just working my way up. At the time I thought it was made in Taiwan. When I learned otherwise I knew that it would have a limited life, thus why I kept it at slower speeds. I was hoping for 2 to 3 years out of it. Still, I have saved money and most likely will go Pegas or Seyco 30" if I am forced into it. I am hoping right now whatever is causing this issue can be fixed. Below are what I had cut before issues cropped up. Look at the circles and the heart. The pieces dropped right out and I stayed right on the lines. Now, it's as if I have no control on the turns.

Darn, that was the one thing I did not do, and usually check it every few weeks if I am running hard. Just tweaked it. So here is how close I am front and back, while under tension. Pretty close to parallel. 1.5mm diff. I am going to set my blade back where it was, as that seemed to make things worse. I was back to having trouble staying on the lines, and it is so far off 90 on the cut, it is not funny. The blade just was not responsive. Really drifty. I am pretty gentle raising and lowering the arm. Only a couple of times it came down and slammed, I tightened it up to prevent that. Is there a replacement part for the knob? This machine is just over a year old. I am not hard on it, and do not use it for major production. I also do not run it full speed either.

Okay, that is how mine are. I just wanted to double-check that the play was normal. I noticed when I tightened them the motor slowed down, and figured that was not good!

So here's my scrap wood test. I cut into a 3/4" Walnut and as you can see, the cut is 90 to the table. I did also back it in as well. A little sticky though. But here's the bug-a-boo. I cut the same wood in a circle, and this is how far it will drop before getting stuck. It seems the bottom of the blade is moving or something on turns. I went really slow and made sure I did not put pressure the wrong way. Again, everything is square to the table, I did a little fine tweaking of the set screws, and may try and see what happens if I move the bottom over more. I did a 1/2" piece round cut and it dropped right though. At least I was able to stay on the line during the turn, so I gained some blade control back. This is a FD #3 UR. So I have also tried 5, 7, and Pegas #10 on a straight cut. I replaced the thumb screws, I made sure the set screw was flat, and I scuffed. I tightened the rocker arms back just a little bit more. For those with an Excalibur, how much play do you have in the rocker arms when there is no tension? Same with the pagas chuck, is there any play when there is no tension?

Not the problem. I have been cutting for a long time, I am known for splitting lines, and had cut 3 toys just before things went sideways. I made sure I was not pushing hard as well. Sped up the blade, slowed it down, stopped pushing, and watched the blade... did all sorts of technique things. Nope, this is mechanical/ adjustment.

I was hoping Someone could point me in the right direction. All of a sudden today my Excalibur is not cutting right. See image 1.png and you can see how I cannot stay on the line in a simple curve. And look at the out-cut and how crooked it is. My cuts are not 90 degrees. This is walnut and I tried a #7 and #5 FD UR blade. This started after cutting 3 other toys with no problem. Now. I checked the blade being 90 degrees to the table and it is on 4 sides. (L, R, F, B) (2.png) I noticed that the rocker arm under the table from the pegas chuck had some slop in it, so I tightened the 3 bolts. (3.png ) I think I over-tightened as that slowed the blade strokes way down so I loosened them back a little, there is very little play on the bottom bar when there is no tension. When I tension it is rock solid. During the cut, I threw the angle on it, (4.png )and the top of the piece to the top of the chuck is a perfect 90. So I am thinking something is off below. But you can see by the piece how off it is. What's weird is, the first 3 pieces I cut today were fine, then the next thing I knew I could not stay on the line and weird stuff was happening. I just swapped out the upper and lower thumbscrews to my 'new' backups. I also checked the set screw that it was not worn and scuffed it. It is almost as if the blade is twisting on the bottom. Not sure though. Any suggestions on where else to look, and how tight/ loose should that bottom rocker arm be?

No, not Steve. Etsy, multidimensioncraft is the shop. They have a ton of 3D patterns like this. Most seem to be for laser. But there are some you can do on the scroll saw, like the cow.

The artwork on LP, in particular double LP's that opened up were always amazing. Now it is cliche and boring CD sleeves.

Need more clamps! I bought more clamps off TEMU. I am finding that the aircraft aluminum products are very good quality direct from the factory and they are 1/4 the price from the orange box store or Amazon. The plastic clamps, are pretty good quality and have served me well thus far.

Hi folks... It's been a while since posting on SSV, as I have been busy at my day job, and also spending a lot of hours in the workshop. Yesterday, I dropped off an assortment of 10 wooden toys to the VA Beach PD. This is the first batch of many that will go to them. The first image are the 10 toys 'curing'. I finished them in raw linseed oil. They will be used by the SVU when they come in contact with children. Kind of sobering in one way. The second photo is the box I deliver them in (no used Amazon boxes ) I am waiting to hear from two other PDs and a hospital. I have another 10 ready to be boxed for whoever asks. The Hippo is a gift for my grandson who turned 1 yesterday. I also gave him the completed Noah's Ark made out of 12 species of wood. The Hedgehog, goes to my 'rent-a-son's' newborn daughter along with a 12 species puzzle. I also included some photos of some of the other things in various stages of production, a lot in dry fit stage. I actually just finished cutting out the Cow/farm piece, it is 5 layers. I did it as a quad stack, so I produced 4 at the same time. It is in dry fit stage, now comes sanding, painting, then glue up. So much to be finished. This is my box before I started the linseed process. I counted this morning, and I have about 30 toys, ready for drilling, sanding, profiling, and wheels. Some get linseed, some do not.

Had my first procedure Dec 2023... The prep was miserable. I had to drink a gallon of this stuff in 2 sessions. It didn't taste bad, but it was cold, so I lowered my body temp. I put it in my 40oz tumbler and large straw, and just did big "pulls" every few minutes. Make sure you take 2 gax-x tabs before starting. And also use baby wipes. If you use TP.. just dab... don't wipe... You'll be RAW in the end... Oh and be in loose sweat pants. I got to a point on the 2nd go-round that I was just staying on the potty... had some reading material.... The procedure was a breeze. They used propranolol on me. When I was coming out of it, first words out of my mouth was, "Whoa.... no wonder Micheal Jackson liked this stuff so much!"

RTV Silicone works well too. https://amzn.to/3uqeYaO

There are a couple of things to consider. But mostly, where the urn will be placed would determine the largest dimensions. My mother was placed in a columbarium, and the cemetery had specific max dimensions. Same with my fathers cremains that were placed in the VA cemetery columbarium. As with my parents cremains the crematoriums will give me the cremated remains in a "temporary urn". This is a plastic container measures 8.5" by 6.5" by 4.5". It holds 200 cubic inches. That would be your minimum size for most people. Here's some more info for you: https://www.stardust-memorials.com/about-urn-sizes/

Yes, I have the prototype as I was the first one James sent it to. When I am running with my bottom "throttle" at least 50% I get nearly zero dust. I have a small throw/catch box under the opening, resting between the table legs, below my knees that catches some of the larger 'chunks' that drop (and I pitch castoffs) or are not sucked up by the top vac. I also find with the top vac, I really do not need the 'puffer' either.

Same as Rolf, I did not glue my joints/connections, but used colored duct tape to seal everything and have them stick together. This way I got the best air seal, and if something happens or I want to make a change, I can easily do so vs glued connections. You will find, that tweaking your system ill happen. As you operate things, you'll find moving, adjusting, etc. will happen quite a bit in the beginning.

I built a quick and easy jig for cutting dowels and axles. Only $10 for the plans

Note, this is reposted from my poppysworkshop.org website, I try to post some of my writing here at special times of the year. I am about to hang up the work apron for the rest of the 'year'. (Though I have been in the workshop since 6:00 am and on a live stream with other scrollers since 8:00 am). Here are my thoughts at the end of the year... >> As we stand on the threshold of a brand new year, it's a time not just for reflection but also for anticipation. The year 2024 is like a blank page in the book of our lives, waiting to be filled with stories, dreams, and adventures. It's a chance for renewal, a promise of fresh beginnings, and a reservoir of joy waiting to be discovered. The end of one year and the start of another is a natural time for reflection and self-assessment. It's an opportunity to let go of what no longer serves us and embrace the changes we wish to see in ourselves and in the world. It's a moment to renew our commitment to our goals, our relationships, and our well-being. As we usher in 2024, let's resolve to renew our spirits, nurture our passions, and to foster a sense of purpose that guides us throughout the year. A new year carries with it the promise of unexplored opportunities and untapped potential. It's a time to set new goals, to dream bigger dreams, and to step boldly into the unknown. The promise of 2024 lies in the countless possibilities that await us. It's a chance to turn our aspirations into achievements, to overcome challenges, and to unlock our fullest potential. As we embrace this promise, may we do so with optimism, resilience, and an unwavering belief in our ability to shape our destinies. Above all, the new year is a celebration of joy. It's a reminder that life is a gift, filled with moments of happiness, love, and laughter. It's an invitation to cherish the simple joys and to find delight in the everyday. Joy is not just a destination; it's a journey. It's in the smiles we share, the connections we make, and the kindness we offer. As we step into 2024, let's carry joy in our hearts and share it generously with others. A New Year's Wish So, as we bid farewell to the old year and eagerly embrace the new, let us do so with open hearts and open minds. Let us welcome 2024 with a spirit of renewal, a sense of promise, and a wellspring of joy. May this year be a canvas for us to paint our aspirations, a stage for us to dance to the music of our dreams, and a journey that fills our hearts with love and contentment. To all of Poppy's 'followers', my readers... I wish you a Happy New Year, filled with blessings, renewal, promise, and an abundance of joy. May the days ahead be a testament to your strength, resilience, and the limitless possibilities that lie before you. Cheers to 2024! May the Lord Richly Bless you! From Poppy's Workshop ~Richard

It makes a LOT of dust. Make sure you have a good collection point at the sander. Don has a good example in his photo of what you need.

I am working on a design for a train and its cars, that will be made up of removable (blocks) shapes. This will be for my grandson as he gets a bit older and understands the concept. Meanwhile good old blocks.

Funny.. I just discovered him today too, and watched this very video. I watched a couple of other videos too. What a craftsman!

Robert, totally awesome. I am working on a design for some trains too. I am trying to contact someone, I made trains for her son over 40 years ago. Not sure if she still has them or not, I would love to get photos since it was something I did in high school. Earlier this year, a former girlfriend sent me a photo of some hearts I cut on a band saw and painted red for Valentine's Day my Senior year. She kept them and sent me a photo nearly 45 years later. It totally sucked, so I did an intarsia of an owl in a tree for her.

'Nuff said!