btseed357

Thanks for the tip about using a steel ruler. I would normally just trust my ability to perfectly fold on the dotted line prior to spraying on the glue. I have a steel ruler right beside my saw, it never registered. Luckily the chess pieces I am making are solid and no internal cuts. Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.

I’m new to the compound scrolling and am working on a chess set. So far I’ve cut a few pieces that I’m happy with. The issue is that I’m putting a lot of time and effort into making sure that the dotted line (crease) is exactly lined with the edge of the block. Sometimes if it’s not exactly lined up, I try to move the pattern around until it is perfect or wind up replacing the pattern and try again. I am sure that there are some of you ol’ salts out there that can let me know if there is a tolerance on how close the crease has to be on the edge or an easier way to line them up. I have this huge fear that if it is not perfectly lined up on my pieces of wood, they will turn out looking like mutants. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. TIA Bob

I will try a 5 Super Skip before moving up to a 7. Thanks

Thank you so much for posting this. I started working on a chess set a couple of weeks ago and am getting discouraged for the same reason. I am using a Pegas #5 MGT (small blades for the sharp turns) and moving very slow, but going through 4 - 5 blades per piece. I will give a #7 super skip and see how that works. I am trying to keep the blade as small as possible. My fear is that a #9 would be too large for the sharper cuts. I have only done a small amount compound scrolling and am very determined to create my own chess set.

Great idea! I think combining yours and Jerry Walters idea (the foot stool instead of the floor) may just do the trick.

Great idea, I think combing yours and MarieC's idea with the velcro would work.

Using a foot pedal ensures that you never lose control of your project. If you're working on something with a lot of fret, it best to keep both hands on it while the saw is running to prevent any slippage.

That's what I did with the Dewalt stand, the Pegas stand is not designed to be able to do it that I can tell.

I have some non-slip pad, I will try that. Thanks

When I used my Dewalt, the Dewalt stand had a shelf that was perfect for mounting a foot pedal. I was able to drill holes in the wood to fit the pedal, then was able to use zip ties and a clamp to secure the pedal. A few months ago I purchased a Pegas and Pegas stand. I have to set my foot pedal and wooden mount on the floor. The problem is that it will not stay still and sometimes becomes awkward to use. Any suggestions on securing a foot pedal that is on the floor. Thanks in advance.

I agree that the tension should rarely, if ever, need to be adjusted. My Pegas is brand new and I have read that everything is set so it should work correctly out of the box. Mine was not, which was actually beneficial because with all of the input on this post, I actually learned something for a change.

The knob sets the tension and the lever applies the tension set after a blade change.

Sorry, I should have clarified, the tension was not correct for the position of the blade. You are correct. The Pegas does have a tension adjustment in the back of the saw

This was the first time I’ve heard that as well and he was right on the money.

Thanks, this was new to me. The majority of the time I’m doing inside cuts, so when I release tension, it’s not something I usually look at. This turned out being a 2 fold problem. The bulk of the problem was the tension adjustment. The other part of the problem was that the bottom clamp nut had backed out slightly causing the hex nut to recede and the blade was slipping slightly but not enough to for the blade to slip completely out. Thanks to everyone for their help.