Mark Higginbotham Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 New to scroll sawing using 1/4 birch plywood but is chipping out when sawing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Hi Mark. We've all seen this at one time or another. Some things to check: Is the blade installed correctly? Is the blade tensioned properly? Not all Baltic birch ply are equal. The ones from the big box stores are not great quality. Using reverse toothed blades help to reduce the chipping. If the chopping is on top of the board your blade could be upside down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjR Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 A clear tape on both sidles where the cut line is will eliminate 90+% of the chipping. Also finer tooth blades chip less. I also do use candle wax on my blades as a lube which also helps, but, for some purposes can cause more sanding for finishing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Higginbotham Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Using a 5 spIral blade most chipping is on back side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 You are going to get chipping on the back with a 5 spiral. They are pretty aggressive. I prefer the smaller spiral blades, FD new 3/0 spiral is what I use. Chipping on the back is not a problem. I sand to get rid of them and then burn the small fuzzies with a small torch. LarryEA 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 New to scroll sawing using 1/4 birch plywood but is chipping out when sawing Tell us all you can about the wood your using,blades ,saw,speed , a scroll reverse blade stops a lot of this . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Higginbotham Posted February 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 Thanks for all the info.& help glad I found this site everyone is always willing to help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Finn Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 I do not cut plywood at all and do not do fretwork but I have had good luck reducing chipping/tear-out in mahogany while carving the surface of it. I applied one or two coats of lacquer before carving and it works pretty good at avoiding splintering. I guess it strengthens the surface of the wood. This just may help on plywood also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky2 Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 Mark, splintering or fuzzies on the back of a project cut with spiral blades, is a common occurrence. It's one of the characteristics of spiral blades that I don't care for, and I don't think it can be prevented. One way to not have as many issues with chipping, is to use a flat blade for most cuts, then use a spiral blade where there is no other option. With you being new to scrolling, now is the time to learn to use both types of blades, spiral and flat. Don't only learn to use spirals, and don't only learn how to use flat blades either. Learn how to use both, you'll be a better scroller if you do so. By being familiar with using both types of blades, you will have a much greater selection of patterns to pick from. Len Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 When cutting plywood I always stack 3 pieces some times it chips but with stacking you always have at least one piece being good. it it takes a hour to cut this project and you get 3 pieces it is oly 20 minutes per piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 Chipping is a little different than the normal burrs/fuzzies left on the edges of the cut, on the back of the piece. Those are pretty common, especially with spiral blades. There are a number of techniques for dealing with them, but getting rid of them altogether is probably unlikely. That said, chipping may be a horse of a different color. If the surface layer of the veneer is lifting and breaking away, then it may be a problem with the veneer itself or with the blade. Sometimes on some plywoods, the surface veneers aren't adhered properly and will tear out dramatically, even using proper blades and techniques. Not much to be done about that, other than stack a sacrificial piece underneath it when cutting and let the tear out happen on it. Too large and aggressive of a blade may also contribute to the problem, especially with no reverse teeth. Try a test cut, with a reverse tooth, flat blade to see if the problem persists. If the reverse tooth blade cuts cleanly, then your spirals may be the problem. If the reverse tooth blades tear out, then it may be the plywood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 I also found that drilling with a dull bit and forcing will cause chipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crupiea Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Keep in mind also that there is birch plywood and baltic birch plywood, two different things that will perform differently. Baltic birch is much easier to work with and what most people use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryEA Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 As Rusty said.... Too big of a blade causes chipping. Teeth are too large, too agressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 I am guessing that 90% of your issue is the plywood. If I was a betting man I would say you got the plywood at Lowes or Home Depot. The quality of the plywood there, while good for some purposes, is not well suited for scrolling. If there is a real lumber yard in your area see if they have or can get BALTIC birch plywood. If no lumber yard try a place like Sloans Woodshop. There is a very big difference between cheap birch plywood and Baltic Birch plywood. You want quality or grade of B/BB or BB/BB. See the link below.http://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/tips-tricks/your-ultimate-guide-to-baltic-birch-plywood-why-its-better-when-to-use-it/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubgoofy2003 Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 Mark, first of all the ply needs to be a layered ply & not just a filler in between the birch laminate. I have bought ply at Lowes & it is terrible plywood. The birch or oak laminate flakes off in splinters between cuts. The plywood needs to have 3 or 5 layers of wood in the thickness. Just look at the edge of the ply when you purchase it & see what is in the center of it. Some are even filled with a foam like substance. I have had good luck with a couple pieces from Michael's craft store, if you have one in your town. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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