Jump to content

Help With Plumbing Dust Collector


hotshot

Recommended Posts

Ok, working on my mega dust collector but figuring out the plumbing of all this is making my head hurt.  Initially, I didn't know the difference between Schedule 40 and DWV (Sewage and Drainage Pipe).  Schedule 40 6" fittings were so freaking expensive that I about gave up.  Then I got directed towards the DWV pipe fitting and the whole picture changed.  Still expensive, but much much better.  I got a good stretch of 6" DWV pipe for free, so I should be good there.

 

I"m trying to run a 6" trunk with DWV, then transition down to 4" with a blast gate, close to the actual devices.  So, I'm thinking 6" DWV trunc, to a Y that does 6" straight through, but does 4" on the branch.  Now I have to get from  4" DWV to the size of the 4" blast gates.  I'm assuming for that transition, I can use the 4" DWV to 4" dust collection fitting, but I'm not sure.  Since my local big box stores don't carry any 6" stuff, I can't go measure.

 

If anyone found the uber cheap source for these kinds of connections, please let me know.  I think the parts I need are.

 

6" DWC Pipe

6" x 6" x 4" DWC Y

4" DWC to 4" dust collection (Whatever that means)

4" Blast Gates

6" Long Radius Elbows to make the corners

 

I would do a 6" down to the floor sweep if I knew how to put a blast gate on a 6" DWV

 

 

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't help you specifically Randy, but if you check out the Woodcraft or Rockler sites, you will get an idea of what you may need.

I would love to have a built in system, but for now, I just move the hose from machine to machine. Not very efficient I know, but it works!

Edited by dgman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used 2 45 degree elbows instead of a long radius elbow since I couldn't find any out here in the country. For 6" blast gates I made my own, I cut 2 squares from 3/4" plywood, cut a hole for the pipe and cut 1/8" birch plywood for the spacers and the sliding part of the blast. Attached the spacers to the plywood with glue leaving enough room for the gate to slide. Attached to the pipe with RTV.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, Randy, I can't help much, I'm a hose drag'r also.  I think you can do as Dan says and it will help.  I know in woodworking forum there is always lots of discussion in dust collection setups.  Like "Lumberjocks",  "Family Woodworking", or "Saw Mill Creek". 

 

What I find funny is, ever notice how the price of PVC and that type of pipe goes, very quickly, up when the price of oil goes up, but it doesn't come back down as the price of oil comes down.  One would think, it would be cheap now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Randy,

 

10 years ago I was attempting to design a pvc central collection system and gave up! I needed Y's, reducers, T's, elbows, etc, etc!  And since I didn't know much about fluid flow I was perplexed on when to reduce the pipe diameter. I gave up!

 

Called my woodworker cousin for help and he steered me to Oneida in Syracuse, NY. VERY helpful. They designed the pipe collection system with proper sized reducers etc. Gave me a quote on the metal pipe system and a cyclone/cartridge filter system. I bought it, installed it, and glad I did after 10 years. They make their own fittings. For example I have a reducing Y that goes from a 6" dia to 5" & 4". other configurations as well that you will just not find in pvc. Back then there was a charge for designing the collection system but it was refunded if you bought the system from them.

 

A word of caution. You should pay particular attention to grounding with copper wires. Some will poo-poo this as not necessary but believe me it is. I just toured a wood shop last week. The gentleman makes early American furniture and he has a self designed pvc collection system. He said he had to go back and install grounding because he was getting 6" arcs of static electricity! Don't know exactly how he did it but evidently he has copper wires inside the pvc pipes now.

 

A further note: static electricity is the #1 safety consideration in petroleum refineries, chemical plants, and grain elevators. More explosions are caused by static electricity than any other factor.

 

Here is  link to Oneida:  http://www.oneida-air.com/

 

Good luck. and be safe.

 

bb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, working on my mega dust collector but figuring out the plumbing of all this is making my head hurt.  Initially, I didn't know the difference between Schedule 40 and DWV (Sewage and Drainage Pipe).  Schedule 40 6" fittings were so freaking expensive that I about gave up.  Then I got directed towards the DWV pipe fitting and the whole picture changed.  Still expensive, but much much better.  I got a good stretch of 6" DWV pipe for free, so I should be good there.

 

I"m trying to run a 6" trunk with DWV, then transition down to 4" with a blast gate, close to the actual devices.  So, I'm thinking 6" DWV trunc, to a Y that does 6" straight through, but does 4" on the branch.  Now I have to get from  4" DWV to the size of the 4" blast gates.  I'm assuming for that transition, I can use the 4" DWV to 4" dust collection fitting, but I'm not sure.  Since my local big box stores don't carry any 6" stuff, I can't go measure.

 

If anyone found the uber cheap source for these kinds of connections, please let me know.  I think the parts I need are.

 

6" DWC Pipe

6" x 6" x 4" DWC Y

4" DWC to 4" dust collection (Whatever that means)

4" Blast Gates

6" Long Radius Elbows to make the corners

 

I would do a 6" down to the floor sweep if I knew how to put a blast gate on a 6" DWV

 

 

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Maybe try ac duct accordion flex tube.!2" ,That's what i'm thinking for the new shop.,High volumn!I'll have to make some parts to adapt,but one big fan should draw pretty good i'm thinking?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using the Aluminum accordion flex stuff to connect from my metal Oneida duct work to  my scroll saw. I think it is normally used for dryer vents. I'm using 5" and 3" diameter flex. 5" Below the table and 3" above the table near the blade. I can see the large particles being sucked up into the 3" diameter flex. And if you can see the large particles being sucked up then I know the smaller particles are going there too. Principles of particle dynamics and fluid flow. I used to do stack testing on power plants etc and we had to be isokinetic all the time to insure accuracy. If our testing device sucked in too much volume we would get more fine particles vs large particles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DWV stands for drain,waste,vent. It is used mainly for sewer and venting it's what i used. Sch 40 is pressure pipe and is thicker and more expensive. Ferguson is a good source or check other plumbing supply houses in your area. As mentioned static can be a problem so tape a copper wire to the outside of the pipe when you get the system built and ground it . also remember if you reduce from 6" to 4" or smaller the machine will not work to it's peak so have at least 2 - 4" open at the same time. Hope this helps

 

sully

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...