ekud1946 Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 (edited) I used mineral oil when I first started scrolling because it brings out the grain of the wood, but does it ever dry completely? Even after months it keeps bleeding through, leaving a stain. Edited August 30, 2017 by ekud1946 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 34 minutes ago, ekud1946 said: I used mineral oil when I first started scrolling because it brings out the grain of the wood, but does it ever dry completely? Even after months it will leave a stain. Is there a process you use to speed up the drying time? Don't know but Google it for an instant answer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lawson56 Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 Wish I could help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merlin Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 are you referring to Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO)...........does..........But Raw Linseed oil does not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonylumps Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 Mineral oil does no dry completely. Best uses for mineral oil is on wooden kitchen utensils.Cutting boards ETC.It is food safe.But if you want to put a finish on something I would use either lemon oil or BLO.If using.BLO works better if you cut it 2 Parts paint thinner To 1 Part BLO.But if I am in a little hurry I use Lemon oil.Soaks in a little faster and still brings up the grain.If you already finished something in Mineral oil and want to put a finish on it. Seal it first with a coat of shellac.Then you could put anything on top of the shellac.Poly , Lacquar.It won't effect the Shellac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldhudson Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 It's still bleeding back to the surface after months?? Sounds odd to me. What type of wood? How was it applied? And what was the piece it was applied to - so that it's "leaving a stain". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekud1946 Posted August 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, oldhudson said: It's still bleeding back to the surface after months?? Sounds odd to me. What type of wood? How was it applied? And what was the piece it was applied to - so that it's "leaving a stain". All types of wood. I have heard other scrollers complaining too. It's worst on hardwoods than soft wood. I don't use it anymore, I spray clear coat on my projects. Edited August 30, 2017 by ekud1946 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ike Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 I don't know I use Meneral sperits and things dry overnight. IKE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 I use mineral oil on almost all my projects.. BUT.. I do it different that most would do.. it is a little tedious to get into the fretwork but it gives an awesome finish that shines for a very long time.. I don't have to wait for it to dry so when a order comes in I can make the project and mail it out almost immediately after applying the finish.. I cook up mineral oil mixed with real beeswax.. after this cools down it turns into a loose paste wax texture.. I use an acid brush to apply to the piece.. let it set for maybe an hour or two.. overnight if I am not rushed.. then I use a hairdryer to melt down the extra wax etc. that is left behind and wipe off excess with paper towel.. The wax melting into the pours of the wood gives the wood a nice shine and silky smooth feel to the wood.. I sometimes use Danish oil... but it take several days to dry out and not stink.. and I've had it do the bleed thing as Duke describes plus I've had it dry with spots of shiny clear as if some one put drops of clear coat on it when I wasn't looking LOL.. So while it is sort of time consuming to apply the mineral oil / beeswax mixture.. I've never had an issue with it with any customers.. can't say that about the Danish oil.. had customers complain of a strong smell when opening the box.. after a week of drying.. and about the droplets of clear look.. WayneMahler, GrampaJim and JOE_M 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdatelle Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 I use mineral oil on my animal puzzles and it drys pretty goof. Haven't noticed any bleeding. I also just finished a train that I just put on and I dipped that in mineral oil and it's dry already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 (edited) I have always said never use a product as a finish that is not designed as a finish. Mineral oil, lemon oil and orange oil do not contain drying agents, therefore never dry completely. To bring out the grain and color of the wood, I use a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed and mineral spirits. The MS is the added drying agent. Lemon oil and orange oil are designed as cleaners and polishes not finishes. Mineral oil is used as a laxative! Edited August 31, 2017 by dgman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekud1946 Posted August 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 Thanks everyone for all the information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjweb Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 What does iggy use on his puzzles, RJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharleyL Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 If you want a dry surface, use a drying oil like Tung Oil or BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). These will dry hard, but it will take several days to get really hard. They will soak in and "pop" the grain like mineral oil, so the appearance will be the same. The smell will go away in time too. Apply them, let them soak in, then wipe off the excess that doesn't soak in after about 20 minutes and then let them dry for a few days. Several coats can be applied the same way, a day or two apart without additional sanding, unless you want to. A Strong Word of Caution - When using any drying oil, but especially BLO, a chemical reaction takes place during the drying that gives off considerable heat. This will not harm your project, but you do need to be very aware of this when it comes to disposing of any rags, brushes, etc. because a bunched up oil soaked rag can spontaneously start a fire. Whenever I use a drying oil I will hang my rags on the neighbors chain link fence or submerge them in a pail of water with a metal cover for 24-48 hours before wringing them out and disposing of them in the trash. In either case, they are immediately removed from my shop. I had left a linseed oil soaked rag bunched up on my workbench while I was rearranging some things in my shop so I could better position the pieces for drying that I was applying the oil to. This process took about an hour, a bit longer than I expected, and when I picked up the rag off the workbench to use it again I burned my fingers. It was already that hot in the middle of it. DON"T LEAVE THE RAGS AND APPLICATION MATERIALS IN YOUR SHOP AFTER YOU USE DRYING OILS OR YOU MAY NO LONGER HAVE YOUR SHOP OR HOME. Charley kmmcrafts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted August 31, 2017 Report Share Posted August 31, 2017 16 hours ago, tonylumps said: Mineral oil does no dry completely. Best uses for mineral oil is on wooden kitchen utensils.Cutting boards ETC.It is food safe.But if you want to put a finish on something I would use either lemon oil or BLO.If using.BLO works better if you cut it 2 Parts paint thinner To 1 Part BLO.But if I am in a little hurry I use Lemon oil.Soaks in a little faster and still brings up the grain.If you already finished something in Mineral oil and want to put a finish on it. Seal it first with a coat of shellac.Then you could put anything on top of the shellac.Poly , Lacquar.It won't effect the Shellac Great info i have all the above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted August 31, 2017 Report Share Posted August 31, 2017 (edited) 19 hours ago, merlin said: are you referring to Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO)...........does..........But Raw Linseed oil does not Mineral oil as the Americans call it is known as Paraffin Liquid over here. It took me ages to find that out. Everything I have ever read about it seems to indicate that it never dries fully so I don't use it except on spatulas or spurtles where a non-toxic food safe finish is needed. Rob Edited August 31, 2017 by Rob correction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekud1946 Posted August 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2017 5 hours ago, Rob said: Mineral oil as the Americans call it is known as Paraffin Liquid over here. It took me ages to find that out. Everything I have ever read about it seems to indicate that it never dries fully so I don't use it except on spatulas or spurtles where a non-toxic food safe finish is needed. Rob Thanks Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam777 Posted August 31, 2017 Report Share Posted August 31, 2017 On 8/30/2017 at 6:40 AM, rjweb said: What does iggy use on his puzzles, RJ Iggy uses mineral oil and he even gave a link which takes you directly to the item on Amazon. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zimmerstutzen Posted August 31, 2017 Report Share Posted August 31, 2017 An acquaintance had a book about wood finishes and it contained a chart of how long it took oils to dry and I remember reading that some were over 2 decades. I believe mineral oil is a protectant more than a finish. It preserves the wood from saturation by odors, stains and tastes, but really isn't a finish, in the sense that varnish or shellac are more of a hard surface meant to be somewhat impervious to environmental factors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Mineral never dries. As the name implies it is oil. Yes the piece may appear dry to the touch but for all who think that mineral oil dries lay a piece treated with mineral oil on a piece of clean brown cardboard or even a brown paper bag for a few hours. Even weeks and months later there will be an oil mark left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ekud1946 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Yes, I agree. 2 hours ago, NC Scroller said: Mineral never dries. As the name implies it is oil. Yes the piece may appear dry to the touch but for all who think that mineral oil dries lay a piece treated with mineral oil on a piece of clean brown cardboard or even a brown paper bag for a few hours. Even weeks and months later there will be an oil mark left. Yes, I Agree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 I only use it on cutting boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.