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Yes! Another blade question


OCtoolguy

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For myself if the blade still has some life left I will put it on the wooden platform, 4" x 4"  with self stick magnet strips and the platform is attached  to the top of the saw and it is numbered 2/0 up to 9. This is also where I keep fresh blades that I will be using for what ever I am cutting at the time. This has worked for me but normally I discard the blade after cutting the project and if it shows a dark blue on the blade which to me is starting or is dull.

Erv

 

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16 hours ago, JustLarry said:

For the used keeper blades, I fold a piece of painters tape around the top teeth slip it back into the package with the new ones.  It is right there when I go to that size blade again and it can be the first out of the package. 

Larry

Great idea. I like it.

 

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Ray, I made a mistake in my last posting on this issue, I stated that I don't save blades. That's wrong, sometimes I will save a blade. But only if I'm still going to be using it again on  the same cutting. Like, if I'm cutting a piece where I have to switch from one sized blade  to another. The blade not being used is set on a speaker magnet, I have it attached to the table my saw sits on. But, that is the only time I save a blade, when I switch back and forth to different sized blades on the same cutting.

Len

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14 hours ago, Lucky2 said:

Ray, I made a mistake in my last posting on this issue, I stated that I don't save blades. That's wrong, sometimes I will save a blade. But only if I'm still going to be using it again on  the same cutting. Like, if I'm cutting a piece where I have to switch from one sized blade  to another. The blade not being used is set on a speaker magnet, I have it attached to the table my saw sits on. But, that is the only time I save a blade, when I switch back and forth to different sized blades on the same cutting.

Len

Thanks Len. That is exactly what I was trying to say. And I like the idea of a magnet to keep track of them. Also, I like the idea of tape. I'm thinking about maybe doing a color code system too. A few different colors of Sharpee markers and a chart to tell me what the color means. If it's a FD UR, for example, that might be green. And so on.......

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My scrolling involves word-art plaques which means many very precise tight turns and the need for making straight lines straight and long smooth curves smooth.  I have found that the angle I need to use to feed the blade changes (gets greater). I attribute this to the torque you apply to the blade during a tight turn.  When this becomes noticeable  - I change the blade.

Given the time and energy I put into the piece, the cost of the blade is negligible to the cost of making a fatal error.

As far as which blade, I tried them all and then tried the Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse.  These fit my style and, for me, ended the question of "Which Blade To Use?" 

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