JimErn Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 When you are done with a piece that you compound cut .... square up the blade before you start the next one sigh OCtoolguy, SCROLLSAW703 and RabidAlien 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 Not sure I follow. If the blade was square before the cut, why wouldn't it still be square for the next one? OCtoolguy and SCROLLSAW703 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 1 hour ago, JimErn said: When you are done with a piece that you compound cut .... square up the blade before you start the next one sigh Yeah, I've done that one several years ago when I did a inlay cut.. then just moved the table back to 0 on the dial without checking to see if it was actually square to the table.. made a couple ornamental firewood pieces before I realized what was going on.. LOL OCtoolguy and SCROLLSAW703 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 So, if your table is straight and true and you do a compound cut, why would it go out of square? Am I missing something? SCROLLSAW703 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 I don't understand how this could be an issue if you were square when you started. If it is coming out of square then I would think there is an issue with the saw. OCtoolguy and SCROLLSAW703 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackman Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 Think maybe he was meaning after doing a bevel cut forgot to reset. OCtoolguy and SCROLLSAW703 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 24 minutes ago, trackman said: Think maybe he was meaning after doing a bevel cut forgot to reset. That’s how I took it. OCtoolguy and SCROLLSAW703 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted June 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 Sorry for the confusion I had the head tilted on the ex-21 doing a piece, it was late and I finished, thinking I would square the blade tomorrow. it was only a 2 degree tilt, guess my calibrated eyes need re-calibration I didn't notice the next day or remember I started cutting the next day - when I went to pull out the fret from the top - oops OCtoolguy and SCROLLSAW703 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustLarry Posted June 16, 2018 Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 3 hours ago, JimErn said: I had the head tilted on the ex-21 doing a piece, it was late and I finished, thinking I would square the blade tomorrow. it was only a 2 degree tilt, guess my calibrated eyes need re-calibration I didn't notice the next day or remember Been there. Done that. Larry OCtoolguy and barb.j.enders 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharleyL Posted June 16, 2018 Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 Post-It Notes. I keep some brightly colored 2" square Post - It Note pads around my shop, and leave myself little reminders like "Square The Table" or "tighten the Blade" , etc. on the tool and in plain sight before I quit working and leave the shop, even if it's "just for lunch".. Sometimes it's days before I can get back into the shop and if I don't leave myself a bright note in plain sight I'll surely forget to do it. Clean or wipe off the spot first. These notes don't stick to sawdust. I also have a place (shiny piece of metal - they stick better to this) on the wall near the door where I leave these Post - It Notes to remind me to order supplies, etc. Then, when I go shopping or to the internet to place orders I take the notes for the items that I need with me, so I don't forget anything. Be careful here, because having too many of these notes on the wall can make you not see the important ones. It's been a good system for me otherwise. Charley SCROLLSAW703, NC Scroller and OCtoolguy 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted June 16, 2018 Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 Being as new to this as I am, I still can't remember all the types and brands of blades that I'm using. When I get up from my saw, I write on a piece of paper what blade is in the saw. I lay the paper right on the saw table so I know when I go to the saw the next time, and it may be a while, what blade is still in the saw. So far, it has worked well for me. SCROLLSAW703 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted June 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 I'll probably go with the post it note, thanks. My mind seems to think I am still 30 and remembers things, reality at this age is another thing {smile} meflick, SCROLLSAW703 and OCtoolguy 1 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted June 18, 2018 Report Share Posted June 18, 2018 It's probably not a bad idea to get in the habit of loosening the table adjusting knob everytime you sit at the saw for the first time that day and do the check it thing. It is so easy and fast, why not? SCROLLSAW703 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted June 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 15 hours ago, octoolguy said: It's probably not a bad idea to get in the habit of loosening the table adjusting knob everytime you sit at the saw for the first time that day and do the check it thing. It is so easy and fast, why not? You are right, should do that. My saw is in another room from the main shop, no room left in the shop for it, so by the time I sand the stock, put the template on the wood, drill some holes, and get to the saw, turn on lights and radio - I am in a let's get it on attitude. That part never crosses my mind. Typically when I do the beveled cutting I square up the blade when finished, just did not do it that day. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 Never trust the dial when checking for true square. ! I have yet to see a saw that is perfect and you also have the issue of how you look at the dial, parallax. Before I start any critical project, especially if stack cutting, I verify that my table and blade are square. Better safe than sorry. OCtoolguy and SCROLLSAW703 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted June 19, 2018 Report Share Posted June 19, 2018 Inn addition to a small machinist's square this little protractor works really well. Place it behind the blade and no parallax or squinting problems. SCROLLSAW703 and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted June 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 I had a couple of squares laying around so I cut down the bar on one of them. But I see them for a buck or less in yard sales all the time. {smile} should have blown the dust off of it before the pic. OCtoolguy and SCROLLSAW703 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdatelle Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 Well after reading all these posts I decided to go check my saw for square. Sure enough, it wasn't square. I guess I forgot to set it back to zero after I did a compound cut. It was 2 degrees off. I was wondering why some of my cuts were off a little. I keep a little block of wood with a straight line on it and all I do is place it behind the blade to square it up. SCROLLSAW703 and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharleyL Posted June 20, 2018 Report Share Posted June 20, 2018 (edited) I do a lot of compound (3D) cutting of thick wood, and I need my saw blade to be as absolutely square to the table as possible for this. I also run very high blade tension on to keep the blade kerf as straight as possible. To check if the blade is square to the table in the side to side direction, I cut into a tall and square cut block of wood deep enough to leave an obvious line and 1/8 - 1/4" away from one side of the block of wood. Then back out and turn the block around so I can see the kerf. It will be visibly obvious if the table is square in the side to side direction to the blade because the kerf will be at an angle. If it is, the kerf will not be equal distant from the side of the wood block both at the top and the bottom and even very slight differences will show up very well. I found this to be even better than using a small square or even a blade protractor to get the blade and table square in the side to side direction to each other. To check if the blade is truly square to the table in the front to back direction, cut all the way through the square block of wood and watch carefully as the blade begins to exit the wood. It should break out of the cut at both the top and bottom of the wood at the same time. If it begins to break through at the bottom first, the bottom blade grip is slightly too far forward. If it breaks through first at the top of the block first, the bottom blade grip is slightly too far back. I refer to adjusting the bottom blade grip assembly because it is easier to adjust this grip on my DeWalt 788 saw. For other saws, you will need to figure out how to make this adjustment. On my DeWalt 788, it required a modification. By slotting of the lower blade mechanism mounting holes in the end of the lower yellow blade arm. You have to unbolt and remove the lower silver blade mechanism enough to be able to modify these mounting holes in the yellow blade arm. Another way is to raise or lower the rear table mounting point. I've seen where raising the rear table mount was done by driving a wooden wedge between the plastic table mounting bracket and the lower yellow blade arm, which raised the table a tiny bit. Of several DeWalt saws that I have checked, including mine, the lower blade mechanism has been too far forward, requiring the use of a small round file or Dremel tool and cylindrical bit to slot the bolt holes in end of the lower yellow blade arm. It didn't take much. Mine needed less than 1/16" of additional slotting to get the blade positioned correctly. Once the slotting has been completed and the saw re-assembled, it will be easy to just loosen these mounting screws and move the lower blade grip forward and back, then tighten the screws again without the need to dis-assemble the saw. Charley Edited June 20, 2018 by CharleyL OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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