Foxfold Posted October 21, 2018 Report Posted October 21, 2018 Tonight I sat to do a 'WordArt' pattern with it's fair share of 'e' letters. I decided to do a few other letters before tackling the 'e'. They went beautifully on my new saw and new blades. However, the very first 'e' broke. I presumed I hadn't held it properly, so did another one, luckily I had more wood and a spare pattern. BUT !!! the same thing happened.... It may seem like a daft question, but is there any 'failsafe' way of doing the dreaded lower case 'e' ? I now have to go and create another pattern as I didn't keep a copy on my computer ''sigh''. Any suggestions would be gratefully received. Brenda x OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Rockytime Posted October 21, 2018 Report Posted October 21, 2018 Can you post the pattern or even just a photo of the failure? OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Foxfold Posted October 21, 2018 Author Report Posted October 21, 2018 8 minutes ago, Rockytime said: Can you post the pattern or even just a photo of the failure? Unfortunately not a photo as I was so cross with myself, I came in and threw them on the fire, saying "I don't know why I thought I could do this I'm obviously and idiot of the first degree" LOL, Typical woman, I threw my teddy out of the pram and had a glass of wine Here is the pattern. Phantom Scroller, MrsN and OCtoolguy 3 Quote
fredfret Posted October 21, 2018 Report Posted October 21, 2018 Just a guess but the choice of wood can make a difference when the cuts are that close. I would use a tight grain wood like maple, or walnut but not red oak or pine . OCtoolguy and Foxfold 1 1 Quote
Rockytime Posted October 21, 2018 Report Posted October 21, 2018 Oh No! Don't throw the teddy out! I have the same problem at times. As you did on the "O" with two little bridges I would do with the "E's." I think your pattern is very nice and really workable. Foxfold, OCtoolguy and Old Joe 2 1 Quote
loftyhermes Posted October 22, 2018 Report Posted October 22, 2018 I'd cut that out of 1/4" Birch ply with a No 1 or 3 blade. Looking at the pattern you'll need to put bridges in the D. Foxfold and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote
Foxfold Posted October 22, 2018 Author Report Posted October 22, 2018 1 hour ago, loftyhermes said: I'd cut that out of 1/4" Birch ply with a No 1 or 3 blade. Looking at the pattern you'll need to put bridges in the D. I'm using ¼" but with a No 5 blade, would that make a difference ? OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Foxfold Posted October 22, 2018 Author Report Posted October 22, 2018 After much 'searching' I may try making a 'zero clearance' on my saw with tape. Although my saw hasn't got a 'big' hole, it may just be enough to stop the 'wobble' on the tiny bits. Fingers crossed, I'll try it later today. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
loftyhermes Posted October 22, 2018 Report Posted October 22, 2018 24 minutes ago, Foxfold said: I'm using ¼" but with a No 5 blade, would that make a difference ? Yes, put simply, smaller no. blade = finer teeth = smoother cutting. You could try 2/0 blades if you have them. Foxfold, Scrappile and OCtoolguy 2 1 Quote
Bill WIlson Posted October 22, 2018 Report Posted October 22, 2018 14 hours ago, Foxfold said: Unfortunately not a photo as I was so cross with myself, I came in and threw them on the fire, saying "I don't know why I thought I could do this I'm obviously and idiot of the first degree" LOL, Typical woman, I threw my teddy out of the pram and had a glass of wine Here is the pattern. A few suggestions; As was already suggested, use a smaller blade. Slow your blade speed down a little in the fragile areas. Stop short of the line at the narrowest bridges to leave as much supporting material as possible, without noticeably altering the pattern.When cutting the upper part of the E, cut slightly on the waste side of the line, leaving a little more of the wood in place. As long as you are consistent, no one will notice. Until you get more experienced and comfortable with these kinds of cuts, try drilling a blade entry hole at the very end of the upper part of the E. Start cutting from the hole, along the inside edge of the letter, next to the narrow bridge. Continue cutting the inside edge of the E, down to the bottom. Loop around and cut the outside edge of the E. It will take more time, but you will be making the most delicate cut when there is still supporting material around it to prevent it from breaking. Hope this makes sense. Good luck! Foxfold, OCtoolguy, Scrappile and 1 other 1 3 Quote
Foxfold Posted October 24, 2018 Author Report Posted October 24, 2018 Well, after 4 tries and a plea for help to you good people, I finally finished the inside letters. Thank you all so much for your suggestions I took them all on board and tried again. So here it is, looking much better and with all it's ''e'' intact. Hope to finish it later this week. munzieb, OCtoolguy, loftyhermes and 1 other 3 1 Quote
loftyhermes Posted October 24, 2018 Report Posted October 24, 2018 Well done Brenda, I think the change of font helped a little as well. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Foxfold Posted October 24, 2018 Author Report Posted October 24, 2018 2 hours ago, loftyhermes said: Well done Brenda, I think the change of font helped a little as well. It certainly did, it meant more space between letters, that helped tremendously. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
OCtoolguy Posted October 26, 2018 Report Posted October 26, 2018 On 10/22/2018 at 1:39 AM, Foxfold said: After much 'searching' I may try making a 'zero clearance' on my saw with tape. Although my saw hasn't got a 'big' hole, it may just be enough to stop the 'wobble' on the tiny bits. Fingers crossed, I'll try it later today. Some folks use blue painters tape for a temporary zero clearance. You can use a playing card for something a bit more substantial. Quote
OCtoolguy Posted October 26, 2018 Report Posted October 26, 2018 On 10/24/2018 at 1:29 AM, Foxfold said: Well, after 4 tries and a plea for help to you good people, I finally finished the inside letters. Thank you all so much for your suggestions I took them all on board and tried again. So here it is, looking much better and with all it's ''e'' intact. Hope to finish it later this week. That looks great. You are a fast learner. Quote
barb.j.enders Posted May 12, 2019 Report Posted May 12, 2019 On 10/26/2018 at 6:38 PM, octoolguy said: Some folks use blue painters tape for a temporary zero clearance. You can use a playing card for something a bit more substantial. I have taken to using an old "business card magnet" for a temporary zero clearance. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Phantom Scroller Posted May 12, 2019 Report Posted May 12, 2019 I would definitely make the gap wider on the e to get more meat on it and that should stop it snapping off. Remember the pattern is to follow cut as required. Roly OCtoolguy 1 Quote
jerry1939 Posted May 12, 2019 Report Posted May 12, 2019 I have always preached - use a sacrifice board underneath & stack cut the 2. I use 1/4" luan ply and run the grain in the opposite direction where you attach your piece to the luan. It will blow your mind when you see how much good it does. A sacrifice board is cheaper & less time consuming than throwing away ruined pieces. Also, for delicate cuts, start with a new blade. jerry Foxfold and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
don in brooklin on Posted May 12, 2019 Report Posted May 12, 2019 I have done a number of Intersection Word Arts and I usually use scrollscriptMT. Not quite as nice as Bird of Paradise but most people don't see it. Below is the same name in Bird of Paradise and they the scrollscript. Not sure were the font comes from but I think from Free4All. If you would like a copy please send PM. The "e" can be a problem so I come up a little bit before the end. Quote
crupiea Posted May 27, 2019 Report Posted May 27, 2019 Simple trick is to change the direction of the wood grain. For example, if you have the pattern on and the grain is up and down, put the pattern on the other way so the grain is side to side. Experiment with some scrap and see how it works. Also those thin areas in the e's will vibrate around when unsupported around the hole in the saw. Try making a simple cover for the hole. I use a playing card with a hole in the middle taped to the table. Anything to keep that area from flopping about and breaking. Quote
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