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Posted

I have never used spiral blades. Never really had enough information about them.

1) Under what circumstances are they advisable? a better choice over straight blades?

2) When do you tend to use them on your projects?

Posted

It's horses for courses. Some people only use spirals, Charlie Deering comes to mind, and others use only flat blades and curse spirals.
I use both for a number of reasons.
you can cut pieces larger than the throat on your saw with spirals because you do not have to swing the timber. You just move it back and forward and left to right.
I use spirals for pieces that have a lot of veining (Lines) as they cut a wider path than flats
I also use spirals when there are a lot of corners, waves etc. I find that a flat blade cuts straight lines and sharp corners better.

Get some and give them a shot, but don't expect to tame them within the first few minutes. It takes a bit of practice to get a spiral to go where you want it to.

Posted

Spirals take time to learn to use, at least for me they did or I should say do I am still learning , and they are not my go to blade.

If the piece is too big to turn because of the back side of the saw, that is when spirals come into their own since they cut in all directions, no reason to turn the piece (in theory)

At this point for me I hardly ever use them for a piece I show anyone.  They leave a cut that is leas smooth than a flat blade, at least in my experience, as a result I find more sanding required.  I dislike sanding by the way.

I recently cut a 24 x 33 inch piece for a friend on my ex-21, my largest to date.  I managed to get it done with a flat blade by coming at the cut from different directions.  Luckily I have 36" arms, being full grown has its advantages. But if I was more confident with spirals I might have used them, I'm just not there yet for something that others will see

 

Posted

I learned with spiral blades and use them for about 80% of what I cut. (mostly fretwork). I tend to buck the masses by using spirals for hardwoods and up to 2" thick free standing puzzles. I do break many blades. I am currently trying to learn to cut with flat blades because it seems I'm a bit backwards from most people who started with the flats. I often feel like I'm rolling down hill at breakneck speed with no brakes with flat blades. They do leave a much cleaner cut and are easier to cut straight lines than spirals. 

Posted

I use them when my piece is deeper than the throat of my saw. If you get a lot of practice with them I'll bet you'll really like them. Buy the flat straight end w double teeth. Go to Hawk scroll saw website, they are cheapest there and what I just ordered last Monday, Memorial Day. I got yesterday. 

Posted

I think portrait patters are the classic example of the best application for spiral blades.  Like many scrollers, I normally prefer straight blades and will use them whenever possible.  These would be my criteria for when to use spirals;

*Piece too large to fit within the throat of the saw.

*Pattern has very few; straight lines, sharp inside corners and points, text or precise geometric shapes.

*Pattern has mostly wavy, irregular lines.

*Clean, smooth edges are not critical.

I will sometimes use spirals to cut veining on patterns that otherwise I am cutting with straight blades.  As I said, I typically use straight blades.  I would not use spiral blades for any project where tight fitting joinery is required , such as 3 dimensional projects, requiring assembly, for example, or where the pattern is dominated by many straight, smooth lines or where the pattern repeats itself.  I would not use spirals for cutting most thick stock, such as compound cutting or stand alone puzzles.  I typically only use spirals when cutting projects made from thin Baltic birch ply. 

These are my criteria and others' will differ.  Yours may differ.  Try them out to get a sense of their characteristics.  You'll figure out where they will or won't work for you in fairly short order.

Good luck and have fun making sawdust!

Posted

They can be used for any thing you want. They are not great for smooth cuts in thicker wood, cutting straight lines, making real sharp corners. Try them on some scrap of the thickness you want to use check the things mentioned above then make a decision. I use them for about half my stuff. 

Posted (edited)

Spirals are another tool in the tool box that I think are very much worth the effort to get proficient with.  I use to use them most the time, but I now use them when really needed.  They have their purpose.  I use then for veining after I have cut the vein with a flat blade.  It really is much easier to add thickness to the vein than trying to do it with all with a flat blade.  I use them for pieces too big to use just a flat blade and I use them in very delicate areas to "File" delicate pieces such as blades of grass, small branches, flowers, animal hairs..  I have never uses a spiral larger than a 2/0 size and mostly I use the Flying Dutchman 3/0 size.  

Edited by Scrappile
Posted
9 hours ago, Scrappile said:

  I have never uses a spiral larger than a 2/0 size and mostly I use the Flying Dutchman 3/0 size.  

I usually go FD 2/0 and 3/0 also. I recently tried a variety of Pegas spirals and purchased a gross of 2/0 from them. I think I'll order a gross of #1 blades and that may become my go to blade. I find the Pegas blades cut faster and last longer than the FD blades. Interesting I find that after cutting for a few minutes with a fresh blade, I have to re-tension to maintain control. I've tried the FD new spirals and the reverse tooth spirals and find I don't like them much.

Posted

I have heard that some folks, when working on a piece bigger than their saw capacity, will mount a flat blade backwards and cut in reverse. Is that true. I guess it makes sense. I've never had cause to try it.

Posted
45 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

I have heard that some folks, when working on a piece bigger than their saw capacity, will mount a flat blade backwards and cut in reverse. Is that true. I guess it makes sense. I've never had cause to try it.

Seems like it wouldn't cut very well as the blades rocking motion would be rocking away from the wood? 

I've heard of people bending blades so they could cut from the side too.. Again doesn't seem like it'd cut very well due to the blade movement.. I've never tried either.. I have tried cutting pulling the wood toward me with a spiral blade and it doesn't cut very fast that direction.. When using spirals.. I typically cut from the front and spin the wood as I go.. sort of like as if I was cutting with the flat blade.. When the front side gets worn down good I sometimes will take the blade out and turn it so I'm cutting on the portion that hasn't been used that was facing the back..   

Posted

Thanks for everyone's comments. A lot of information here.

My apologies for taking so long to recognize everyone's input. I've been away from the computer for all these days.

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