New Pegas Scroll Saw arrived and set up

[FrankEV]

My new 21" Pegas Scroll Saw with Stand arrived yeasterday around 2PM and I had the stand assembled and the saw mounted and operating by about 3:30PM.  My first impression was WOW this saw is great, well made including even the solid stand.  Materialwise fit and finish is top of the line.  Operationalwise, it runs smooth with a nice steady blade movement making cutting control much easier.  

I imediately jumped on a new, relatively simple project, cutting 1/4" solid core Maple Plywood.  However the pattern does includes a number of words in about 3/4" high block font, resulting in a lot of really little areas to be cut out (Not my strong skill.).  Well to my amazement, I'm doing a fairly good job with these letters on this saw...I'm happy.  I have completed almost all of the letters, with only a few to finish, using a #1 Pegas Modified Geometry blade without breaking any yet.  Again I'm happy.

I have two comments that might be subjects for some suggestions or tips. 

1.  The Porter Cable saw I was using had a small very bright LED light on a goose neck that I could shine directly on the blade.  For the price of the Pegas, I'm disapointed they did not include this feature.  Even Though I do use a 5X lighted magnifying lamp, I liked the little spot light that when pointed on the blade a shadow was created that made it easy to see just where the blade was along the pattern line.  My old eyes need all the help they can get.  

2.  The table work surface is smooth as the preverbial "babys behind".  However, it is so smooth it seems to create a slight suction betwen the table and the wood, making it slightly difficult to move  the wood smoothly.  This is not being caused by the work hold down which I have set close but not touching the wood.  I actually had to apply a coating of Pledge Furniture Polish to help it slide easier.  Would like someting more permanently slipery but do not want to use any thing that would transfer to the wood. 

No work from this saw to brag about yet, but it won't be too long before this little project is finished and I can post a pic.

All you Pegas Saw operators, please feel free to offer any suggestion , tips, comments, etc.   Looking for anything that makes using this saw even easier/better.

Thanks

 

 

 

       

Edited August 14, 2020 by FrankEV
gramma and spelling

[Foxfold]

Don't have one of these saws and took the 'hold down' off my saw when I bought it.  I just wanted to say that your post did make me smile. You sounded just like a kid at Christmas... Enjoy your new toy   

[Old Joe]

I have had the Pegas for several months and I like it better every day. Two bits of advice: take the work hold down piece off and throw it in a box.It's a detriment. Secondly, use Johnson's Paste Wax and rub it in thoroughly. It lasts for a few weeks for me.

I agree with you about about the light.

[kmmcrafts]

2nd the johnson paste wax!! Use it on all my tool tables. and wow.. it sure helps more than one would think.. I use it on my jointer table, bandsaw table, table saw table.. planer bed.. also like to use it on the saw body and stand.. the sawdust falls right off it and onto the floor much better.. keeping my saw looking much cleaner and unused.. Kinda a bad thing though when the wife comes in to see what I've got done and the saw doesn't even look dusty.. 

[NC Scroller]

Congrats on the new toy tool.  Just a word of warning, voice of experience. When using a product like Johnson's Paste Wax make sure to buff off all the excess wax or some will transfer to the wood and "will" mess with whatever wood finish you might apply.  Been there. 

[FrankEV]

2 hours ago, Old Joe said:

...take the work hold down piece off and throw it in a box.It's a detriment....

I already took the front guard off and just left the hold down in place.  This way it does not interfere with me. 

I have more problem with the air tube being on the left.  I'm use to it being on the right, but I presume I will get used to it.

Having the ability to lift the arm to change blades or change the blade to a new hole is probably the best part of this saw.   

[kmmcrafts]

22 minutes ago, FrankEV said:

I already took the front guard off and just left the hold down in place.  This way it does not interfere with me. 

I have more problem with the air tube being on the left.  I'm use to it being on the right, but I presume I will get used to it.

Having the ability to lift the arm to change blades or change the blade to a new hole is probably the best part of this saw.   

I'm assuming it would be the same as the Excalibur for the air tube.. You should be able to remove the air tube cover housing and spin it so the tube goes on the other side if that is a hindrance to you.. Or just use it as is.. you'll eventually get used to it..

[JimErn]

@FrankEV

I agree, trash the hold down piece, both top and bottom.  The bottom one is some kind of safety thing.

Then remove the diaphragm for the vacuum from the bottom of the table, it tends to get clogged if you use it.

I too loved the goose neck LED light on the Porter Cable saw, and I still am sorely disappointed in the high dollar saws that think that less than $5 per unit is prohibitive.

I put the air tube on the right side like you are talking about, but I just looped it around and changed out the nozzle end too.

Put a magnetic sheet on the table top, even if it does not stick as it should, use double sided tape to hold it down.  Slicker than owl sh*t and no waxing to worry about - pic attached.

[FrankEV]

2 hours ago, JimErn said:

@FrankEV

I agree, trash the hold down piece, both top and bottom.  The bottom one is some kind of safety thing.

Then remove the diaphragm for the vacuum from the bottom of the table, it tends to get clogged if you use it.

I too loved the goose neck LED light on the Porter Cable saw, and I still am sorely disappointed in the high dollar saws that think that less than $5 per unit is prohibitive.

I put the air tube on the right side like you are talking about, but I just looped it around and changed out the nozzle end too.

Put a magnetic sheet on the table top, even if it does not stick as it should, use double sided tape to hold it down.  Slicker than owl sh*t and no waxing to worry about - pic attached.

I could probably search, but if you would be so kind...where do you get the magnetic sheet? Brand?  Thickness? Any info that is needed?

Thanks

 

 

[JimErn]

10 minutes ago, FrankEV said:

I could probably search, but if you would be so kind...where do you get the magnetic sheet? Brand?  Thickness? Any info that is needed?

Thanks

Here is one

https://www.amazon.com/Magnum-Magnetics-Strong-Flexible-Material/dp/B00HPAB2DW/ref=asc_df_B00HPAB2DW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312393068560&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6925403775924823423&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027978&hvtargid=pla-568877589769&psc=1

but just search on magnetic sheet, measure the table top first

[redwine]

Ditto on removing the hold down piece!  It is more of a hindrance than a help! Unless the laws have been changed in other countries, the U.S. is the only country that  requires that  this hold down part has to be added to the saw whether it is manufactured here or overseas. It is supposedly a safety item required by Osha!  Anyway we have to use our hands to hold down the material and move it around to cut so the hold down is not needed!  This is just my 2 cents worth!

Erv

 

[Denny Knappen]

Frank, glad you received the saw and so far happy with it.  As for suction, one of the first things I did was remove the plastic saw dust catcher under the table that is connected to the shop vac.  That is what is causing the suction.  I use a Seyco Vac to collect the dust.  On the EX 21 just vacuum the floor.

[FrankEV]

On 8/14/2020 at 5:11 PM, kmmcrafts said:

I'm assuming it would be the same as the Excalibur for the air tube.. You should be able to remove the air tube cover housing and spin it so the tube goes on the other side if that is a hindrance to you.. Or just use it as is.. you'll eventually get used to it..

You are correct.  Two screws hold the air hose and it can be rotated easily to the right side.  I did this but decided to put it back on the left side as it intefered with  releasing the blade to reposition the work.  While on the left side it remains where it is set without needing to be repositioned each time. 

[FrankEV]

Just a follow up.

1. Although I found the air tube can be remounted to extend out to the right side, I did not leave it there, but put it back on the left side where it remains set in place and does not need to be reset each time the work is relocated and does not interfere with reaching thumb screw that holes the the blade.

2.  I also purchased a magnetic mounted  goose neck LED light that I mounted on the right side.  This light is physically much larger than the little light that is on my Porter Cable but is very bright and creates that shadow of the blade that aides me seeing where the blade is along the pattern line.  My depth precetion is compromised as I have monocular vision (I only see out of one eye at a time) and i found I could not determine exactly where the blade was, even with my 5X magnifier LED lamp, with out being able to reference the shadow. 

3.  As all the comments I received said remove the Hold Down and the plastic dust collector diafram so I decided to take that advice and have done so.  Yep, operation and  control is much better and the dust and small pieces of wood fall through preventing interference with the movement of the project.  I sweep and vacuum the floor between projects anyway so all is good. 

Thanks for all who offered comments and suggestions, they  were all very helpful and appreciated.

 Here a few pics of the way I have the saw set up and is working for me:

[amazingkevin]

All my saws get the top covered in Formica. It,s very slippery and I have the back of the saw higher than the front by 1 foot. I would like to try higher but at my age doing less is better!!!

[daveww1]

enjoy your new saw

[OCtoolguy]

The only suggestion that I can make at this point, since just about everything else has been covered, would be to attach your magnifier light to something other than your saw. The vibration, no matter how slight, is transferred to the light and whether you realize it or not, it effects your view through the lens. I have my saws sitting one next to my bench and the other up against the shop wall. One light is attached to my bench, and the other is clamped to the vertical stud of the wall. Neither light is in contact with my saws so they never get the vibration transfer. It really does help. Best of luck with your new saw. I knew you would love it. Now, GO MAKE SOMETHING and show us.

 

[Scott M.]

Hey Frank...I just received my Pegas 21" saw the other day. The setup was easy and I was very excited to use it after reading all of the positive comments I've seen here.

Before using the saw I read that a good coat of Paste Wax would help so I was diligent and followed all of the recommendations of putting on the wax...letting it dry and then buffing it. After 1.5 hours of use I then noted that the table had several circular scratches that are quite disconcerting. I checked the piece of wood containing my pattern for anything that would scratch it...nothing but tape and wood.

I'm not impressed now! Is your saw having the same or similar issues? Keep in mind this is after 1.5 Hours!

I have reached out to the distributor, Bear Woods, and their only comment thus far was that it may have been a broken piece from a blade. I only used a single blade for a short period of time and you can see the results. For almost $1200 CAD you'd think that it would have better durability? I'm waiting for their next response.

Would anyone have any suggestions? Maybe Powder Coating it? I can cover it up with a Magnetic Sheet as someone above posted...but do you spray paint a Porsche? 

Thx

Scott

 

[OCtoolguy]

26 minutes ago, Scott M. said:

Hey Frank...I just received my Pegas 21" saw the other day. The setup was easy and I was very excited to use it after reading all of the positive comments I've seen here.

Before using the saw I read that a good coat of Paste Wax would help so I was diligent and followed all of the recommendations of putting on the wax...letting it dry and then buffing it. After 1.5 hours of use I then noted that the table had several circular scratches that are quite disconcerting. I checked the piece of wood containing my pattern for anything that would scratch it...nothing but tape and wood.

I'm not impressed now! Is your saw having the same or similar issues? Keep in mind this is after 1.5 Hours!

I have reached out to the distributor, Bear Woods, and their only comment thus far was that it may have been a broken piece from a blade. I only used a single blade for a short period of time and you can see the results. For almost $1200 CAD you'd think that it would have better durability? I'm waiting for their next response.

Would anyone have any suggestions? Maybe Powder Coating it? I can cover it up with a Magnetic Sheet as someone above posted...but do you spray paint a Porsche? 

Thx

Scott

 

It looks like you must have had some grit on the underside of your wood. The only explanation I can think of. The wood didn't cause that.

 

[FrankEV]

My table also scratched soon after starting use.  The scratches have increased.  However, it has not caused any problem but I do need to rewax on a regular schedule to maintain a nice slippery surface.

The coating appears to be quite soft and just the roughness of the wood causes the scratches.

 

[TAIrving]

I received my Pegas last October and love it.  In addition to all the above comments, especially Johnson's paste wax and circular scratches, I attached a vacuum pickup line to the bracket that previously held the hold-down foot. With the blower blowing from the left and the vacuum sucking from the right, it keeps the cut line clean and easier to see.  

[kmmcrafts]

9 hours ago, Scott M. said:

Hey Frank...I just received my Pegas 21" saw the other day. The setup was easy and I was very excited to use it after reading all of the positive comments I've seen here.

Before using the saw I read that a good coat of Paste Wax would help so I was diligent and followed all of the recommendations of putting on the wax...letting it dry and then buffing it. After 1.5 hours of use I then noted that the table had several circular scratches that are quite disconcerting. I checked the piece of wood containing my pattern for anything that would scratch it...nothing but tape and wood.

I'm not impressed now! Is your saw having the same or similar issues? Keep in mind this is after 1.5 Hours!

I have reached out to the distributor, Bear Woods, and their only comment thus far was that it may have been a broken piece from a blade. I only used a single blade for a short period of time and you can see the results. For almost $1200 CAD you'd think that it would have better durability? I'm waiting for their next response.

Would anyone have any suggestions? Maybe Powder Coating it? I can cover it up with a Magnetic Sheet as someone above posted...but do you spray paint a Porsche? 

Thx

Scott

 

Welcome to the Village Scott!

I'm not exactly sure how to say this but I'm not really sure WHY these saws paint the table surface.. I don't care what kind of finish you put on it.. it's going to wear off and get marked up.. No matter how you roll the dice.. nice clean smooth sanded wood being rotated on a painted surface is going to cause for friction / wear.. Does any of the top of the line scroll saws, table saws, bandsaws, or any other tool have a painted table surface? I didn't think so.. so why does ALL of these Excaliburs, Jet, King, and Pegas type saws have a painted surface? Seyco uses the magnetic sheet which also wears out but can be replaced.. The painted surface does help prevent corrosion and does give a smooth slick surface.. but in short time looks like crap.. though still protecting the metal surface. On my saw most of the paint itself is worn off but the primer coating underneath is still holding up quite well, LOL  I've been considering repainting mine. 

I'm not a finish expert but I've worked many years with automotive finishes and I think "good quality" epoxy finishes are stronger than powder coat.. I may be wrong on that.. These saws are advertised as having a "epoxy" finished slick table top.. I'd think it'd hold up better than any other type of top coat. 

A Porsche is something you just drive.. lets talk pick-up trucks.. They come new with just a painted truck bed knowing full well you buy a truck to haul stuff right? Yet they have this truck bed liner stuff you can "pay extra" to keep the truck bed from getting scratched and start rusting away.. a truck is meant to be used and get ugly over time unless you do pay extra to get the line Ex coating or a plastic set in liner or rubber matt etc.. My suggestion is if you're going to " use " the saw as it is intended to and you're worried about how it looks in a year.. buy the magnetic cover / liner.. 

 

[Bill WIlson]

I tend to agree with Kevin.  The coated surface of my EX-21 started showing signs of wear shortly after I started using it.  Quite honestly, I don't care all that much.  It's a tool and the table is a wear surface.  I also wonder why they bother putting any coating on it.  A smooth, plain metal surface with a coat of paste wax applied once in awhile is all that is needed.

[OCtoolguy]

I have 2 green Ex's and both of their tables have very little wear. A few scratches but not worn the way I've seen some. I truly think the underside of the wood picks up some grit when the top is being sanded so maybe both sides need to be sanded. And wiped well with a tack cloth. 

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, octoolguy said:

I have 2 green Ex's and both of their tables have very little wear. A few scratches but not worn the way I've seen some. I truly think the underside of the wood picks up some grit when the top is being sanded so maybe both sides need to be sanded. And wiped well with a tack cloth. 

I honestly don't think it matters what you do.. that top coat no matter what it's coated with is going to scratch and wear over time.. possibly even with the magnetic pad on top.. Over time with vibration and just plain spinning wood on top of the surface with or without the grit.. it's going to wear off.  Even the tape if you tape stacks together is going to grip into the surface at some point and time.. if you can get a paper cut from paper or tape.. it can do the same thing to that table surface.. best thing to do to keep it looking new is don't use it..  but that takes all the fun out of it. In some ways.. I like the painted surface.. mostly because I can somewhat judge how much use a saw has had when looking at used saws..