Affixing a photo and cutting out the outline of a fairly intricate building

[gogsi]

Hello there, this is my first visit here and I'm looking forward to being a regular.
I use a Hegner Multicut 1 saw and enjoy using it to create unique items.

I'm about to glue the attached photo to a piece of wood and then cut around the outline leaving just the building and the foreground.
I'm mainly concerned about the very narrow parts being lifted off the wood as I saw around them. Might it be a good idea to cover in clear tape and, once finished cutting, remove the tape?

Since the photo was printed using an inkjet printer, I was planning on using 3M Photo Mount to glue the photo and then spraying the photo with Ghiant inkjet fixative spray to hopefully make it stronger or do you think a coat of varnish might be better?
   Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Edited December 31, 2020 by gogsi
addendum

[LarryEA]

Dan dgman will be able to answer better than me.

1) What wood are you using?

2) You will not be able to remove the clear tape.

3) use Elmers or Gorilla spray glue and read instructions for best sticking.

 Ghiant inkjet fixative spray may work.

4) Those spirals are a problem, do those first.

 

[teachnlearn]

This one could be tough to answer. The type paper and ink are going to be a large factor. If the ink dissolves in any finish it could run. Print a set of small pictures, mount them to a cardboard or junk wood to prevent curling. I would recommend lightly spraying finish them your ink fixative. The  initial spray won't smear like a brush. Couple of light coats, the try a clear coat/ poly. This is the time to test what you want or bought and what the final look will be. The first and second coating of the fixative should be light so the ink won't dissolve in the solvent. You can create test boards like these to refer to in the future for what works and what it will look like.

It would be assame to do all the printing mounting cutting to ruin your final work. RJF

[dgman]

Welcome to the Village Gordon! Do not apply tape to the top of of the picture as it will delaminate the paper when you go to remove it. I think a coat of spray lacquer will protect the picture. Do not use reverse tooth blades. The reverse teeth will lift the edges of the paper. Use a skip tooth blade. Before you commit to the project. Practice on scrap wood and pictures so you know how it will work.

Thinking about the picture, you might want to print it on high quality photo paper, then spray it with lacquer after it is mounted on your board. Lacquer dries fast, but I would let it cure before you cut. Good luck and let us know how it works out for you.

[Jim McDonald]

First, I would have the photo commercially printed. Their inks are superior to almost all home printers.(EDIT--and commercial paper is far more durable and harder to tear.)

I would sand my substrate to at least 320 grit and wipe with a tack cloth.

Then, coat both the board and photo with Scotch 77 glue. Give them a few seconds to get tacky and use a braying roller as you attach to remove air bubble and get the best adhesion. I might even add a cover board and weight the stack for 4 to six hours prior to cutting.

Edited January 1, 2021 by Jim McDonald

[teachnlearn]

Definitely agree, commercial printing is going to be more stable. Wrote my response based on using a home printer. RJF

[Rolf]

I have a Xyron machine and I would use the permanent adhesive. If you are not familiar with the machine it is a dry laminator that puts a thin two sided adhesive on the back of your pattern or photo. Some good advice here, like Larry said NO clear tape. And Jims suggestion about getting it professionally printed is a good one. 

Doing a couple of sample prints and coating them before doing the real cut is also a great suggestion.

One other suggestion I would use a 28 TPI blade with NO reverse teeth, you donl't care about a few fuzzies on the back. You will have a much cleaner top edge.  

Edited January 1, 2021 by Rolf

[John B]

I have cut many jigsaw puzzles printed on my inkjet. I give the print a light spray of lacquer on the face. Let it dry then spray contact adhesive on the rear of the print and the backing board. Leave until almost dry, tacky, and carefully position the print onto the board. Press down hard using a roller or a block and hammer.
Then give the face another coat of lacquer, heavier this time as the 1st has fixed the print.
normal 80gsm paper works OK, but 110gsm photographic, either gloss or flat is better. It gives much brighter colours and contrast.
I like your picture.

[gogsi]

Thanks so much for all of your replies. I had actually done a few of your suggestions already as I was eager to get started : ) 

I'm using good quality Epson photo paper. 
I actually used 3M Photo Mount to glue the photo to the wood and it works pretty darned good. I had a piece of 5mm (13/64")  and glued a similar photo to this.

Just for testing purposes, I used hair spray, yes - hairspray - ten coats as I didn't have any fixative and had read that this could work.

Used four heavy books to make sure it was glued fast and left for maybe 5 hours.

Cut around all of those sharp corners and it worked a charm. No paper lifteng off anywhere.

So now, I'm ready to do the photo above and will do so armed with all of your suggestions and a new confidence for 2021.

Happy New Year scrollers !

[Dan]

A couple other suggestions. If you use a razor blade on the edges of concern it will help prevent lifting during cutting. Also use sprat lacquer before cutting to help protect the photo and after cutting to help seal the edges. Every e else has great ideas also. 

[gogsi]

Thanks Dan for the razor blade suggestion. Will give it a try.