Production Cutting what saw?

[Devin Wilson]

If you were going to purchase a new saw for production cutting 5+ hours a day 5 days a week what would you buy. 

Does anyone use the Pegas saw for this type of cutting if so how is it?

Dewalts seem to be wearing out on me bought a new one December 2019 and its about done already. I know they can be rebuilt but don't want it to be a yearly thing. 

I'd like something that I'd get 3-5 years at least of heavy operation out of before having issues.

 

[dgman]

I have a Pegas on order, expected to ship at the end of the month. Obviously, I haven’t used it yet, but I expect it to perform and last better than my DeWALTS have.

[Scrappile]

If I was relying on a saw for production work, I would invest in a Hegner or a Hawk.... Hegner would be my first choice because of the customer service and parts availability... I don't read that Hawk is very good in those area...  I could be wrong.. 

[CharleyL]

I have a 20+ year old Delta Q3 40-650 saw that cuts a little more aggressively than the DeWalt, New Delta, Pegus, Seyco and similar design saws that are now available, and I would still use it now if I was doing any kind of production cutting today. It has a C frame design with the blade ends connected across the gap to the ends of the C. When running, the C frame rocks back and forth, so the blade cutting angle is varying slightly forward and back as it moves up and down. This speeds the sawdust clearing from the cut and increases the cutting rate possible at a given saw speed, much like when you hand saw a board and change the blade cutting angle as you make each stroke. What it doesn't do is make a perfectly vertical cut as you reach and need to turn a tight corner, unless you pause at the corner long enough for a couple of complete blade strokes before making the turn and continuing the cutting. 

So this Q3 saw cuts a little faster, but it isn't quite as precise as these newer saws. It's a trade-off of speed for accuracy. It will depend a lot on what you are cutting as to which saw is better for the purpose.

Experiment more with different blades and manufacturers to find the blade that does the job faster for your project, and you will find that for some projects you may want to switch the blade type several times during the project, as some blades work better for very tight turns where others do better for the longer and more gradual turn cutting. Spiral blades do great for clearing tiny areas, but following pattern lines is much more difficult when using them. Larger blades cut faster, but leave rougher edges that require sanding later. Skip tooth blades tend to work better for finer work where clearing the sawdust from the cut becomes a problem. Learn what works best for each area of your project and don't hesitate to switch to the best blade for cutting each area. I have a magnet on the side of the upper arm of my saw where I temporarily park blades that are in use, but dull blades never get put away. Any remaining used blades at the end of a project get trashed. At approx. $0.20 per blade I'm not going to risk the quality of my next project because I used a dull blade on it.   

Significantly increasing the speed of the saw may increase the cutting speed, but the blade will overheat, turn blue, and loose it's sharpness quickly. It will break sooner as well. It also burns the edges of the cut, making the project look more like it was cut with a laser.

There is an optimum trade-off speed for each blade, where it cuts well and yet doesn't over heat, so it continues to cut well for a longer time. I frequently lubricate my blades by cutting into an old candle or block of paraffin or just by rubbing the wax candle or block against the sides of the blade as it's running. This keeps the blade cooler and the cuts cleaner as well. You should set your saw speed to just below where the blade heats and burns the wood. Watch the blade color for signs of it turning from black to blue. Gray is Ok, but not blue. Lubricate the blade with wax often, and once set at this ideal speed it will make the fastest and cleanest cuts possible. The blades have very tiny teeth, so they can only remove as much wood as their teeth gullets will allow with each blade stroke, so pushing the work harder to cut faster will not work very well. As the blade dulls, and you begin to see any burn marks, it will be necessary to slightly reduce the saw speed, or replace the blade to continue making clean cuts as fast and accurately as possible, regardless of what saw that you use.

Scroll sawing is more of a journey and achieving precision, than it is a destination. It is nothing like any other kind of woodworking. Slow down, strive for precision, and you will enjoy the process much better. Let the laser cutter guys do production and burn their way through their work, making nasty looking, burned edge, but fast production work. Strive for precision, but at the ideal speed for what you are cutting. You will enjoy the journey much better, and your work will sell faster, because it will look much nicer.

A tip for even more precision and speed is to feed and steer your project as your cutting it by using your fingers, with your wrists and palms resting on the front of the saw table or that area of your project. Feeding the work with your elbow muscles isn't nearly as accurate, but is the way that most people try to do it. You will be able to follow the lines, especially in those tight close work areas, much better. If you haven't been working this way, the elbow feeding habit takes some time to break, but it's very worth the effort. When I teach scroll sawing, I try to get my students to work this way from the beginning. Those who have scroll sawn before my class find it more difficult to switch, but everyone has agreed that doing it this way has helped them considerably. 

Charley 

 

Edited February 15, 2021 by CharleyL

[puzzleman]

I used to do production cutting ~ 5 hours a day. Started with a DeWalt BUT only got a 2 years out of it before it needed to go in the shop. It only had a one year warranty.

Then I switched to Delta with a 5 yr warranty. It only gets the same 2 years before going into the shop for repair. I always had a backup Delta saw because repairs took weeks to complete.

Delta saw can be had for around $300 at Home Depot when on sale.

So, you can get 3+ Delta saws for the price of a pegas, Hawk, or Hegner.

That would be my recommendation.

bb

[kmmcrafts]

I'm thinking if you rebuilt the DW with quality bearings and new sleeves.. good quality synthetic grease you should be able to get your 3-5 year time from it.. I would try that first before jumping in on a new saw.. If you are used to cutting on a DW.. they are a bit more aggressive cutting saws than the other saws out there.. You can tune a Pegas and other types of saws to cut more aggressively which when tuned they cut pretty good and fast.. However the top speed SPM ( strokes per minute ) is only 1500 on the Pegas and like saws.. and the DW is 1750. 

As for quality saws.. built to last and production cut.. I'd agree with Paul and say a Hawk or Hegner with out last any of these other saws by a long shot.. however they are a bit slower at cutting as they do have a more straight up down blade movement.. Hawk has a adjustable blade angle which does help but you get it too far out there and it won't cut nice square corners as Charley mentioned about C arm saws.

I personally went with a Hawk when I upgraded as I do just as you are.. "production cut" and I wanted the blade angle adjustment option because speed does somewhat matter for production cutting.. and I don't think Hegner offers that option.. But as others have stated.. repair parts from Hawk can take a long time to get if they don't have the parts on hand.. They are a very small family run business and they also Farm and run a couple other small business's so the parts could be a few months out before you get them.. If you go with Hawk.. a good idea to buy ahead of time some common wear parts. Most business's that production cut shouldn't rely on just running one saw anyway in my opinion.. I have 3 Hawks and a Excalibur. I have the Ex tuned to be a fast cutting machine for those " in a hurry to get done orders " Hawks are tuned to run precision.. funny thing is.. there is very little difference in the time it takes to cut the same projects from one machine to the other.. The DW has a noticeable difference in cutting time.. but it comes with the wearing out fast poor quality machine factor that only you can weigh your options.. Iggy sticks with his DW's and he has had a Hawk and a Pegas.. didn't like either saw very well so he just replaces a DW every year or so.. IF I was that stuck on DW I'd take the time to rebuild one or even pay someone to do it if I wasn't able to myself.. provided they would use quality parts and grease.. I got 4-5 years on my DW after rebuilding it once... I sold the saw because I got the EX.. but wish I had kept it instead..  But honestly, once getting used to the cutting style of the Hawk.. It's really my go to saw.. Been running it pretty hard for 3 years now.. not needed any parts yet.. and still running very smooth and quiet.. To do over again.. I'd still buy the Hawk.. or Hegner.. Even if you buy a new saw every year.. you still have time setting up a new saw.. and the hassle of having to take time to shop for another every year etc..  

[WayneMahler]

I've been using an Excalibur EX-21 for years ( before they were made in China ) and have had very little problems. It gets used 7 days a week and about 6  to 8 hours a day. Sometimes more then that. If I was to buy a new  it would most likely be a Hegner. There a lot of folks up here with different saws, some run as a business and others as a hobby. I'm sure you get a lot of different opinions. I have also heard a lot of good about Seyco. Good luck in your research it's almost like buying a new car. One last thought, make sure you are comfortable with the saw, if you can find different ones to try out that would be the best thing. I know not really possible unless you have access to them.

[Devin Wilson]

22 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I'm thinking if you rebuilt the DW with quality bearings and new sleeves.. good quality synthetic grease you should be able to get your 3-5 year time from it.. I would try that first before jumping in on a new saw.. If you are used to cutting on a DW.. they are a bit more aggressive cutting saws than the other saws out there.. You can tune a Pegas and other types of saws to cut more aggressively which when tuned they cut pretty good and fast.. However the top speed SPM ( strokes per minute ) is only 1500 on the Pegas and like saws.. and the DW is 1750. 

As for quality saws.. built to last and production cut.. I'd agree with Paul and say a Hawk or Hegner with out last any of these other saws by a long shot.. however they are a bit slower at cutting as they do have a more straight up down blade movement.. Hawk has a adjustable blade angle which does help but you get it too far out there and it won't cut nice square corners as Charley mentioned about C arm saws.

I personally went with a Hawk when I upgraded as I do just as you are.. "production cut" and I wanted the blade angle adjustment option because speed does somewhat matter for production cutting.. and I don't think Hegner offers that option.. But as others have stated.. repair parts from Hawk can take a long time to get if they don't have the parts on hand.. They are a very small family run business and they also Farm and run a couple other small business's so the parts could be a few months out before you get them.. If you go with Hawk.. a good idea to buy ahead of time some common wear parts. Most business's that production cut shouldn't rely on just running one saw anyway in my opinion.. I have 3 Hawks and a Excalibur. I have the Ex tuned to be a fast cutting machine for those " in a hurry to get done orders " Hawks are tuned to run precision.. funny thing is.. there is very little difference in the time it takes to cut the same projects from one machine to the other.. The DW has a noticeable difference in cutting time.. but it comes with the wearing out fast poor quality machine factor that only you can weigh your options.. Iggy sticks with his DW's and he has had a Hawk and a Pegas.. didn't like either saw very well so he just replaces a DW every year or so.. IF I was that stuck on DW I'd take the time to rebuild one or even pay someone to do it if I wasn't able to myself.. provided they would use quality parts and grease.. I got 4-5 years on my DW after rebuilding it once... I sold the saw because I got the EX.. but wish I had kept it instead..  But honestly, once getting used to the cutting style of the Hawk.. It's really my go to saw.. Been running it pretty hard for 3 years now.. not needed any parts yet.. and still running very smooth and quiet.. To do over again.. I'd still buy the Hawk.. or Hegner.. Even if you buy a new saw every year.. you still have time setting up a new saw.. and the hassle of having to take time to shop for another every year etc..  

Kevin I think I will give that a try called Dewalt and they are sending a new saw and told me to just keep the old one.

Do you know if there is a source to buy a rebuild kit per say for them?

[Rolf]

I agree with Kevin, I have been using my Hawk G4 26 since 2005, with very minor maintenance issues. I now also have a EX 16 (used) with Pegas clamps, took it all apart and re-lubed everything.  

 

[kmmcrafts]

I do not know of any "kit" for the parts.. and it's been years since I done the DW saw and I've rebuilt a EX and a few others since then so I wouldn't want to mis-guide you on how many of each size bearing and sleeve you'll need to do a "complete" rebuild.. But for starters.. I'll say for the front portion of the saw you'll need these parts here.. and I know some of these are the same bearing and sleeve as in the back part of the saw.. but without looking at the diagram I don't know how many bearings and sleeves are in there. Here is the part numbers for the bearings in the front of the saw. You will also want to replace the sleeve (bearing insert )..  I bought the sleeves here. In the diagram you might be able to look at the part numbers to the sleeves and figure out how many bearings and sleeves you'd need for the back part of the saw. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dw788-type-scroll-saw-parts-c-1009_2631_207564.html Also if I was you.. instead of buying "all" of the bearings and sleeves.. You might consider just taking it apart and inspecting the bearings and sleeves before buying a lot of parts you may not really have needed. Since in most cases.. it's only one or two bearings / sleeves that are actually worn. Many times you can just clean up the old bearings and sleeves and re-grease with a quality grease. Please do note that if a sleeve is worn bad so is the bearing.. replace them in pairs. also try to keep the bearing sleeves with the same bearing when taking it apart.. 

10) HK0609 bearings... mine cost $4.16ea.
2) HK0810 bearings... again cost $4.16ea.
 

Edited February 16, 2021 by kmmcrafts

[JustLarry]

Here is a list of bearings I copied from a post several years ago. I re-greased mine (Delta40-690) after making the list and so far, so good.

HK0609 Needle Bearing 6x10x9) 12 ea
HK0810 Needle Bearing 8x12x10) 2 ea
HK1412 Needle Bearing 14x20x12) 2 ea

Also link to a good video.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x42jZgEAUwM  

Larry

 

Edited February 16, 2021 by JustLarry

[amazingkevin]

Would have been nice for dewalt to use the same bearings everywhere to make repairs easier and fool proof. With car grease in mine i struggle to tighten the blade past #1 on the blade tensioner !!!

[OCtoolguy]

The best source for the bearings is here. Talk to Vivian. She is familiar with these bearings and what we are using them for. The sleeves as far as I know have to come from Dewalt or eReplacementparts.com.

 

 

Edited February 17, 2021 by octoolguy

[NC Scroller]

This is not a slap against anyone because I am a guilty as everyone else but we scrollers try to get blood out of a stone.  I worked in manufacturing.  Machine hours / cycles were tracked and maintenance was done on a regular basis. Sometimes is was simple and sometimes it was a complete overhaul.  Beyond that we knew that every machine had a life expectancy.  If you are going to run a business and do production work tool replacement and overhauls have to be figured in as the norm.  Most scroll saws are not designed for true production work. They are hobby tools.  Hegner probably is the closest to a production machine but even they need to be maintained.  Hegners cost about $1,800 new.  Most of us, l include myself, are not willing to lay out that kind of money. 

Devin, I wish you all the best in your search.  If you are running a business I would suggest have more than one saw.  Murphy 's Law is alive and well.

[Rolf]

I put hour meters on my saws to get an idea of the actual run time.

Wow $1800 for the Hegner 22 inch. As frivolous as I am about spur of the moment tool purchases, that would give me pause for a scroll saw.  But then again I paid $1200 for my Hawk in 2005.  Worth every penny! 

I was running it yesterday at a very slow speed and I hear a squeak. time to investigate.  

They are great saws 

[Scrappile]

The way I look at it,,,, the Hegner 22 is $1645.  I have had 4 saws over time... a DeWalt, Excalibur, Seyco and Hegner... If the Hegner had been the first saw I bought I would have saved money, because I would not have bought those other saws... All Hegner parts are available and there is nothing on the saw I couldn't easily replace myself, and customer service is outstanding.... However, not everyone would like a Hegner and if I had bought it as my first saw and then decided that scrolling was not my thing.... I would have lost a lot more money... so there you go... But if I was going into business,  I would want to know parts and good service is available... based on that, a Seyco would be my second choice... 

[GrampaJim]

I agree that Hegner saws cost a LOT!  But you can find a used one for $500-600 or less like I did, you will have a saw that will probably out last you.  Many Hegner's are 25 years old or more and still run like new.  Are there things I wish they would improve?  That's a big yes, (bigger table, top feeding) but I want a saw I can run just run today and tomorrow. 

[kmmcrafts]

A lot of factors play into what a persons opinion is about a production cutting saw.. when I see these post topics I'm assuming they're looking for a saw that they don't have to replace every year.. In my mind " any " saw can be a production saw.. you can buy HF saw and just replace it every 3 months or buy a DW and replace it every 12 -15 months.. you can buy a Henger or Hawk and replace it every 10 - 20 years.. You need to buy what works for you also. Some people are not mechanical and don't want to fool with repairs.. others don't mined doing repairs and maintenance. As has been stated what is more important about running business is pricing and factoring in making enough profit to cover replacement saws and having the funds to do so at any given time.. What kills most crafters business is they get the money in their hands and pay themselves buy spending "all" the income.. and live a paycheck to paycheck life.. then when murphy stops by and takes a saw out of commission and no money to replace / repair they loose customers buy not getting orders out in a timely manor.   

If you are looking for that long lasting saw that you don't need to fool with.. most likely a Hawk or Henger.. You do pay up front.. but as  has been mentioned.. You also need to run a saw you are in tune with.. one that is comfortable to run.. after all if a saw's cutting style differs from one type to the next.. If you're used to a DW and are comfortable sitting at it for 6 hours a day then I don't suggest going to a saw that you have no idea of it's comfort level or the cutting style of the saw.. If a Hegner is less aggressive and is 10% slower cutting that means you're going to be sitting at that saw for 10% more time for said work load.. You need to be comfortable with the saw you're using if that is what you will be running the most in your small business.

I like the way my Excalibur cuts.. but I can't sit at that saw more than about an hour or I get cramps in my neck.. the stand sucks as there is no place to put your legs / feet as the stand design is wide and doesn't allow you to sit close and sort of straddle the stand.. The Hawk does cut somewhat slower and a less aggressive feel while cutting.. however I've found that it isn't really any slower to complete a project because of it being less aggressive I can go right into a sharp turn and turn it and continue on my cut out.. on a aggressive saw I might have to stop a sec. and back up slightly and then make my turn to continue on.. I get more done in one day on the Hawk than the Excalibur because I have to constantly move when setting at the EX to get comfortable.. always stopping to change position.. Yes one can build there own stand and design it to be comfortable to sit at.. doing so does take time away from production to fiddle with getting set up to be comfortable.. 

So with all that is been said.. from one production cutter to another.. My suggestion is have a main saw that you're comfortable with.. If you want to try a quality saw get a used one to see if the saw is comfortable for you to set at and get comfortable with it "IF" you can.. run it as a back up saw.. if you can't get used to it and would like a different saw keep trying different saws to see what works well and is in tune with you the user.. BTW.. yes some of the older saws are limited on features.. such as quick clamps and thing like that.. However the stands and the basic saws are still pretty much the same saw.. ( speaking on Hawk and Hegners designs ) If you like a used Hawk or Hegner then you can always have an idea if the new one would be comfortable for you to set at.

Guess what I'm saying is.. you could buy a $2000 saw and hate it because it's not comfortable to cut at for long periods of time.. a cheap HF saw might be the saw that does work for you.. Just plan on having to factor in a replacement every X amount of time.. also have a back-up plan for broken saws.. Even high end saws break..at some point. I have 5 saws in my shop.. 3 Hawks a EX-21, and a very old Delta.. Probably over kill.. but I shouldn't have the need to rush to town to buy a saw to finish a project / order because of a broken saw.. 

I have full intentions to buy a used Hegner at some point to try and see if I would like one.. I went with a new Hawk a few years back because I had two used ones with less features that I liked.. I knew I would be happy with a new one.. I looked at new Hegners.. a few things I think I wouldn't like.. ( small table, arm doesn't go up very high, the front tension lever looks like it sticks up 2-3 inch and I could see me breaking Magnifier lights with that handle. The blade holders look like they could be cumbersome ).. I'd be ticked off to spend nearly $2000 and hate it.. When I find a deal on a used saw.. I'll learn if I like it and then possibly buy a new one if needed / wanted.. 

[Modern Art Studios]

I had the purple Excalibur the last 13 years I was in business. I joined this forum to find a scroll saw because I miss the action. I ended up with the King for one reason. 30" throat. My only recommendation is don't fret over the price. Best of luck, Phil. 

[Scrappile]

Okay @kmmcrafts,,,,, how do you get production work done when you spend so much time on here writing such good, but lengthy, responses??

The only argument I could give you on what you said are shortcomings of a Hegner,,, is every "shortcoming" mention can either easily be improved,  if a person feels it is necessary, except for it will always be a bottom feeding saw (did you mention that as a short coming?  It is not for me, I have never been a top feeder).  There is a learning curve with the Hegner for sure,,, that is why I always say they are not for everyone... The clamps take a little getting use to at first,,,, now they are second nature to me.. Fact I prefer them over my pegas clamps on my Seyco... I easily increase the size of my table top in the same fashion I did on my Excalibur when I had it... Seyco... no problem, you can't find a saw with a bigger table top, directly from the factory.... Hitting the light....never happened until I did a simple modification to make the arm raise higher... then it wacked it first blade that broke...  I have since adjusted where I put my light..  By the way,,, making the arm height mod, is okay,,,, but I lived fine without it for many years..  But honestly, figuring out the tension on the Hegner was the most difficult part of learning my Hegner... It is probably more important than most saws, but with a little experience it also becomes second nature..  I guess I have no more to say about what I think of my Hegner.... except, if I had more money I would buy a second one... The reason I like two saws, if not for back up, I don't need that, but I do switch blades often on a lot of things I am cutting... Sometime I have straight blade in one and a spiral in the other... That kind of thing.. Easy to roll my chair between saws..

Only other thing, I would like is a chance to use a Hawk saw... Never have... I would not buy one right now because I have to feel comfortable with parts and customer service and I think that is an issue with the company right now... 

 

[kmmcrafts]

42 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

Okay @kmmcrafts,,,,, how do you get production work done when you spend so much time on here writing such good, but lengthy, responses??

 

 

I didn't realize to be considered a production cutter you had to sit at the saw 24 - 7  365 days.. To be quite honest.. I'm nearly 900 miles from my shop on a vacation sitting on the beach in Folly SC and hoping the second half of my vacation isn't rain like this first half is,  My website is in Vacation mode until I get back home in March. I will say the dang iPad thing is a pain in the behind to get used to instead of my computer. tiny keyboard thing on the screen.. I knew I should have brought my laptop,  LOL.  Must have taken me 2 hours for that last reply but who cares I get board sitting around not actually working.. I'm one that can't sit doing nothing.. I'm good to set at a computer but I cannot get into TV shows.. mainly because anything on TV is garbage anyway.. has to be action packed or I loose interest..

I think I could get used to the Hegner fairly quick.. I would think since the design is quite similar to the Hawk as they are very fussy about blade tension and many of the same things and I assume they are quite similar in nature.  I'm not a top feeder either so that's not an issue.. and yes anyone can modify a saw to their own liking.. or build their own for that matter.. The dislikes or rather concerns about the short comings for the Hegner are small petty things and I get that.. also not everyone cares about table size or this or that.. I only brought those things up as they was concerns of "mine" after all I do set at the saw quite a lot.. I was comfortable with Hawk as I has been using one for 2-3 years before purchasing that new saw.. and I strongly looked at Hegner.. but wasn't about to spend nearly $2000 on a saw not really knowing if it'd work well with me.. as in comfort.. my last reply I mentioned you have to be comfortable setting at a saw if you're doing this as a business.. I'm a cheap @ss .. I only paid $100 for my first Hawk.. and not about to pay $2000 for something I have no idea if I'd like it.. Robust saw for sure and probably well worth every penny.. but would I really be happy sitting at it all day every day.. I suppose for $2000 I'd have to make myself like it.. LOL This is why I say I'm watching for a deal on one.. I want to try one.. never know.. after trying one I might sell all the Hawks and buy a new Hegner.. 

 

[Scrappile]

53 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I didn't realize to be considered a production cutter you had to sit at the saw 24 - 7  365 days.. To be quite honest.. I'm nearly 900 miles from my shop on a vacation sitting on the beach in Folly SC and hoping the second half of my vacation isn't rain like this first half is,  My website is in Vacation mode until I get back home in March. I will say the dang iPad thing is a pain in the behind to get used to instead of my computer. tiny keyboard thing on the screen.. I knew I should have brought my laptop,  LOL.  Must have taken me 2 hours for that last reply but who cares I get board sitting around not actually working.. I'm one that can't sit doing nothing.. I'm good to set at a computer but I cannot get into TV shows.. mainly because anything on TV is garbage anyway.. has to be action packed or I loose interest..

I think I could get used to the Hegner fairly quick.. I would think since the design is quite similar to the Hawk as they are very fussy about blade tension and many of the same things and I assume they are quite similar in nature.  I'm not a top feeder either so that's not an issue.. and yes anyone can modify a saw to their own liking.. or build their own for that matter.. The dislikes or rather concerns about the short comings for the Hegner are small petty things and I get that.. also not everyone cares about table size or this or that.. I only brought those things up as they was concerns of "mine" after all I do set at the saw quite a lot.. I was comfortable with Hawk as I has been using one for 2-3 years before purchasing that new saw.. and I strongly looked at Hegner.. but wasn't about to spend nearly $2000 on a saw not really knowing if it'd work well with me.. as in comfort.. my last reply I mentioned you have to be comfortable setting at a saw if you're doing this as a business.. I'm a cheap @ss .. I only paid $100 for my first Hawk.. and not about to pay $2000 for something I have no idea if I'd like it.. Robust saw for sure and probably well worth every penny.. but would I really be happy sitting at it all day every day.. I suppose for $2000 I'd have to make myself like it.. LOL This is why I say I'm watching for a deal on one.. I want to try one.. never know.. after trying one I might sell all the Hawks and buy a new Hegner.. 

 

Okay it is not $1800 or $2000 it is a mere $1645, stand optional, plus shipping, like most...  If you can afford to spend the winter sitting bored on a sunny/rainy beach.... you can afford that saw!!   Nice conversation and I hope you have a great vacation!!

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/collections/hegner/products/multimax-22-v-variable-speed-scroll-saw

[Rockytime]

I have two old Hegners, 18 and 14 inch saws. There isn't much original on my saws. I get rid of anything that is redundant. The long bolt to tighten the table angle is replaced with a hex head bolt and is now out of the way. The little box covering the lower blade clamp is gone. I removed the arm that held the foot as it had no useful purpose other than the foot. Even the blade clamps are crap. Even the quick change clamp is only a mediocre improvement. So why do I LOVE these Hegners? They are easy to improve. The Germans are hardheaded as I should know being one. They have had their crappy blade clamp design for 400 years. To change would be to admit it is flawed. Hawk had the right idea. I made blade holders similar to those used on the 16VS Hawk, the barrel style. They work so much easier. It is much easier to place the blade in a little hole than using the thumb and forefinger to guide the blade into the little slot, holding it in place and then tightening the knurled knob. I have neuropathy in my hands and feet. I no longer have fine motor skills. That's why I had to give up clock repair, model railroading and sundry other things. Hegner changing clamp design would be admitting the saw can be improved and we can't have that. In spite of all that I LOVE the Hegners, clamps or not. They are so durable. Had Hegner been in charge of building the Panzer Germany might have won the war. 

[Scrappile]

I don't know @Rockytime,  my quick change blade clamp looks nothing like yours...  You made yours?   I like mine.... I cannot understand how yours work easier than the originals...  But like I say repeatedly in my posts about my love for my Hegner... not for everyone.... but I love mine...  certainly no different than the age old argument about which car/pickup is better,,,, having owned several of each,,,Ford, GMC and Dodge.... I will, if I ever have to get rid of my current GMC, buy another, Toyota!  I wish you hadn't had to give up clock repair,,, I have an old one, my parents gave me a long, long time ago,,,wish I could get running again...  I think it needs a new main spring/cleaning/oiling.... runs a few minutes and quit..

[Rockytime]

Great old clock! Those types of clocks were called :Black Mantels." I've probably repaired a thousand of those over the years. I had a dozen or more of my own which I gave away. I loved clocks. Gilbert, Seth Thomas, Ansonia and dozens or hundreds more. Started as a hobby in about 1976 and lasted until a year or so ago. I've never loved anything more. It became a passion. I only have about 20 clocks around the house now. Thanks for sharing your clock.