Blades for cutting 3/4" thk wood puzzle?

[FrankEV]

I'm normaly not a puzzle maker.  However I found a nice looking Puzzel of an  Elephant that I thought would be nice to make for my soon to be born Greatgrandson.  His nursery is all decked out in Elephant's on his crib blankets, a hanging mobile etc.

I did not have any nice solid wood, so I decided to, and have already, cut it in a piece of 3/4" thick premium pine, since I plan to paint the puzzle pieces  anyway... Airbrush Elephant Grey of course using Artist Acrylic paint with a Polycrylic protective coatig.  

The cutting was quick and easy using a Pegas #1 spiral blade, thinking I needed a wide kerf.  However, that was probably incorrect as the puzzle goes together easily, but is too loose to stand up unsupported like I have seen other puzzles presented.  I did drill a hole to start the cutting so I have a nice full boarder piece that I plan to add a backer to and use to hold puzzle.  I'm planning to bevel the bottom of the boarder abou 10 degrees and add a stand to the bottom.  This will present the puzzle like a table top picture but allow the puzzle to taken apart and put back together at will.  I plan to leave the boarder natural with maybe just a very light application of a red stain and a Poly finish.  

All that to just to ask; What blade is most commonly used for cutting this kind of "Statue Puzzle"?  

 

 

Edited August 31, 2023 by FrankEV

[Bill WIlson]

I cut a few stand-up animal & dinosaur puzzles every year for Christmas, mostly out of hardwoods.  I typically use a #3FDUR, because that is what I have.  It may not be the best, but my reasoning is that I want to use the smallest blade that will readily cut the thick stock I'm using, thus minimizing the kerf and allowing them to stand up better.  If cutting pine, I might try a #1FDUR, again, because I have them available.  I don't paint these puzzles, so I don't have to factor that in.  Do you paint the edges of the puzzle pieces or just the show side?

The problem with trying to use the smallest blade possible, any side pressure that bows the blade & cut means the puzzle won't come apart easily.  Adding a finish will complicate matters a bit, especially if it raises the grain.  That's a lot of sanding.

[FrankEV]

47 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

I cut a few stand-up animal & dinosaur puzzles every year for Christmas, mostly out of hardwoods.  I typically use a #3FDUR, because that is what I have.  It may not be the best, but my reasoning is that I want to use the smallest blade that will readily cut the thick stock I'm using, thus minimizing the kerf and allowing them to stand up better.  If cutting pine, I might try a #1FDUR, again, because I have them available.  I don't paint these puzzles, so I don't have to factor that in.  Do you paint the edges of the puzzle pieces or just the show side?

The problem with trying to use the smallest blade possible, any side pressure that bows the blade & cut means the puzzle won't come apart easily.  Adding a finish will complicate matters a bit, especially if it raises the grain.  That's a lot of sanding.

Thanks for the info.

For this puzzle, I'm painting all sides of the loose pieces.  Even with the edges painted, the puzzle is too loose to stand up by itself.  Also, there is no flat bottom for it ti stand on, so it is not balanced well.  Making it a "lay-in" puzzle solves these problems.

[Rolf]

I cut the 56 Puzzles for this Book, and currently cutting 32 new puzzle designs by Jaeheon Yun. They will be for a new book.  I am currently using a Pegas MGT 5, 11 TPI  .014, thick Kerf .016.  Or another brand of similar specks.

I would never use a spiral for puzzles, nasty edges.!

Good tension and don't push sideways and the puzzles fit great.

 

[Sycamore67]

I use a FD Polar.#5 on 3/4" thick puzzles.  On 3/8" or 1/4" I will drop to a #3.

I finish mine by dipping in Danish Oil.  The finish will effect the gap between pieces.

Like Rolf mentions, do not push sideways when cutting.  Also, frequently Che k that your blade is 90 degrees.  Cutting with a dull blade can also cause issues where yo are pushing too hard.

I do not cut pine for puzzles as it is difficult to get the edges smooth.  I like Poplar, cherry, quartersawn sycamore, and even maple.

[Rolf]

22 hours ago, Sycamore67 said:

I use a FD Polar.#5 on 3/4" thick puzzles.  On 3/8" or 1/4" I will drop to a #3.

I finish mine by dipping in Danish Oil.  The finish will effect the gap between pieces.

Like Rolf mentions, do not push sideways when cutting.  Also, frequently Che k that your blade is 90 degrees.  Cutting with a dull blade can also cause issues where yo are pushing too hard.

I do not cut pine for puzzles as it is difficult to get the edges smooth.  I like Poplar, cherry, quartersawn sycamore, and even maple.

I used Danish oil for the first time when I made the last batch of puzzles. I just can't get used to the lingering odor, it never seems to go away. It is a nice simple finish. 

[Gene Howe]

4 minutes ago, Rolf said:

I used Danish oil for the first time when I made the last batch of puzzles. I just can't get used to the lingering odor, it never seems to go away. It is a nice simple finish. 

Is it Watco? My experience with it is that after 3 days or so, the odor will dissipate. 

[Sycamore67]

I place my pieces on a 1/2" mesh that sits on top of an oil filled heater in my shop.  It dries in a day or two with very little odor. I usually top coat with shellac or lacquer rattle can.

I use Watco.

[Gene Howe]

38 minutes ago, Sycamore67 said:

I place my pieces on a 1/2" mesh that sits on top of an oil filled heater in my shop.  It dries in a day or two with very little odor. I usually top coat with shellac or lacquer rattle can.

I use Watco.

I usually let it cure for 72 hrs or so. In our AZ heat, that's  plenty.  Then, top coat. On boxes...not scrolled... my last coat gets a wax job applied with Libron steel wool. Makes a smooooothe touchable finish.

 

 

 

[BadBob]

22 hours ago, Gene Howe said:

Is it Watco? My experience with it is that after 3 days or so, the odor will dissipate. 

Not my experience. Months later, there is still an odor. Watco was no help. I have decided that those who can't smell the odor from Watco and BLO probably can't smell other stinky things. For example, smokers lose a lot of their sense of smell.

[Gene Howe]

13 minutes ago, BadBob said:

 For example, smokers lose a lot of their sense of smell.

Must be the case for me, then. I don't use Watco as a final finish  anyway. It always gets a few coats of shellac or poly. My main use is the dark walnut flavored Watco and, usually on walnut or mesquite.  No one has ever commented on any objectionable odor. And, I'm sure my customers are not all smokers. 

[Rolf]

The dry time is also an issue when you have a deadline. I do like how it makes the wood feel. 

Thanks for the feed back.

[barb.j.enders]

For the stacking type puzzles, I tend to use a #3 mg blade.  For the interlocking stand up puzzles a #5, although I have used a  #3 but you have to be extra vigilant in not pushing.  When painting, I have done just the top/bottom and outside (visible) edges and left the inner areas natural.  That does take a lot of extra time & patience.

[Norm Fengstad]

Fore puzzles I have used a # 1 or #3 modified pegas blade. when interlocking pieces don't fit well I found "sanding" gently with a spiral works to straighten the uneven cut