Cut out color?

[Bo Liljeborn]

Hallo

I am a rookie scroll sawer from Sweden how just found this great site and have already learned plenty.

Just watched Travis tutorial making patterns with Inkscape and it was great, i succeeded to make my pattern with grey and black outline which made it very easy to see the lines.

When I got a problem (I am a rookie remember) logical for me is to cut out the grey areas along the black line, but is what right?

On some of all the great patterns here on the site it says cut out the grey, others say remove the white, so I get confused and wonder how I can see for my self witch color to remove on a pattern without what info, any tips for a rookie?

Edited November 25, 2023 by Bo Liljeborn

[BadBob]

Unless the patient is complex, I remove all the shared areas.

I think it will not make much difference for most patterns where you follow the line. I like a fine line and cut down the center. Some people like to cut along the edge of the line. For patterns like Steeve Goods slot and tab patterns, that must fit well. I cut them tight and sand or file them to fit.

It is kind of a personal preference thing that will come with experience.

[Wichman]

Welcome to the village!

As far as I know there is no formal convention on which way to shade a pattern (waste area or keep area). For me it helps to have the cut line red and about the width of the blade I'm going to use, so that I am, in effect, erasing the line. Because I'm cheap I use a very light green as the fill color (uses the blue and yellow ink, which don't get much use).

As for being able to tell what you are keeping and what you are throwing away, you just have to look at the overall pattern and decide which you are doing, sometimes you can do both.

[Bo Liljeborn]

1 hour ago, BadBob said:

Unless the patient is complex, I remove all the shared areas.

I think it will not make much difference for most patterns where you follow the line. I like a fine line and cut down the center. Some people like to cut along the edge of the line. For patterns like Steeve Goods slot and tab patterns, that must fit well. I cut them tight and sand or file them to fit.

It is kind of a personal preference thing that will come with experience.

I am not sure I understand how you mean, doesn’t it mather if I cut out the grey areas or the white?

This is the pattern i made with Travis method, so the end result will be same no mather what color I cut away?

Varg test.svg

[Bo Liljeborn]

5 minutes ago, Wichman said:

Welcome to the village!

As far as I know there is no formal convention on which way to shade a pattern (waste area or keep area). For me it helps to have the cut line red and about the width of the blade I'm going to use, so that I am, in effect, erasing the line. Because I'm cheap I use a very light green as the fill color (uses the blue and yellow ink, which don't get much use).

As for being able to tell what you are keeping and what you are throwing away, you just have to look at the overall pattern and decide which you are doing, sometimes you can do both.

Thank you looking forward to learn more on the subject.

So the pattern I posted witch color vould you cut out to make a nice Wolf face?

[Wichman]

Bo,

     I would use the gray as the "waste" area. You need to add some bridging to the white areas so the pattern will hold together when cut.

 

Have you been following the discussions about using shelf liner or blue tape to cover the wood before applying the paper pattern? I apply shelf liner to both the top and bottom of the piece if I'm going to use the following method.

If you follow the lines very carefully and save all the "waste" pieces (I tape them back into the holes with packing tape after removing the shelf liner), then when the pattern is all cut out you turn the piece over (make sure there is no shelf liner or other material on the "waste" areas; the remaining shelf liner creates a mask), apply glue to the bottom of the piece, effectivly just the "waste pieces". Remove the shelf liner from the bottom of the pieces. At this point you should have the bottom of the piece with the "keep" section with no glue and the "waste" areas with glue. Take a prepared panel. and place on top of the piece with the glue on the "waste". apply weight to clamp. Whe the glue has dried, remove the weight and turn both pieces right side up. Carefully remove the pattern from the top and carefully lift the top piece. You should now have two pieces, one with a positive image and one with a negative image. 

An example of using both the pattern and the "waste" areas. The piece with the rose is the project, but I used the waste areas to create another piece that is readable.

Edited November 26, 2023 by Wichman
clarity

[TAIrving]

For many patterns it does not matter which method you use.  What matters more is to be consistent and to maintain a smooth line.  If the pattern line is straight, then maintain a straight line.  If the pattern line is smooth, then maintain a smooth curve.  It the blade steers away from the pattern line, as it sometimes will, then maintain a smooth line following the general shape of the pattern and gradually move the blade back to the pattern line.  Once you remove the pattern, nobody will know where the pattern line was, but they will be able to see where the cut lines are not smooth.  Practice (a lot) and you will get a better feel for it.  

Welcome to the Village, scroll lots, ask questions, post pictures (you will get lots of views and feedback, mostly positive and enjoy this great hobby.  

[dgman]

Welcome to the Village. Of the pattern you show, cut out the grey, leave the white. If you cut out the white, you will have nothing but small pieces.

[Scrappile]

The pattern you show, I would cut out the gray.  If you cut the white you will just have a bunch of pieces the will not be attached to anything.   Cut the gray our and put a color backer in it like black.

Welcome to the forum.  

Ha, I see @dgman was typing the same answer as I was only he can type faster!

Edited November 26, 2023 by Scrappile

[BadBob]

2 hours ago, Bo Liljeborn said:

I am not sure I understand how you mean, doesn’t it mather if I cut out the grey areas or the white?

This is the pattern i made with Travis method, so the end result will be same no mather what color I cut away?

Varg test.svg 38.54 kB · 6 downloads

I understand your confusion. A picture is worth a thousand words. In this case, I think it depends on what you want the result to look. I would make this with a lot thinner lines. I typically print patterns with one or two pixel-wide lines. I have been printing them with red lines as an experiment to see if I like them better. I have a laser printer and rarely print color so the cost of ink is not an issue.

[BadBob]

1 hour ago, TAIrving said:

Once you remove the pattern, nobody will know where the pattern line was

Unless it is round or some other curve where it will be noticeable. Heart shapes are one thing that comes to mind. The curve of a fender on a toy car. If the fenders are not the same it will be obvious.

[Bo Liljeborn]

2 hours ago, Wichman said:

Bo,

     I would use the gray as the "waste" area. You need to add some bridging to the white areas so the pattern will hold together when cut.

 

Have you been following the discussions about using shelf liner or blue tape to cover the wood before applying the paper pattern? I apply shelf liner to both the top and bottom of the piece if I'm going to use the following method.

If you follow the lines very carefully and save all the "waste" pieces (I tape them back into the holes with packing tape after removing the shelf liner), then when the pattern is all cut out you turn the piece over (make sure there is no shelf liner or other material on the "waste" areas; the remaining shelf liner creates a mask), apply glue to the bottom of the piece, effectivly just the "waste pieces". Remove the shelf liner from the bottom of the pieces. At this point you should have the bottom of the piece with the "keep" section with no glue and the "waste" areas with glue. Take a prepared panel. and place on top of the piece with the glue on the "waste". apply weight to clamp. Whe the glue has dried, remove the weight and turn both pieces right side up. Carefully remove the pattern from the top and carefully lift the top piece. You should now have two pieces, one with a positive image and one with a negative image. 

An example of using both the pattern and the "waste" areas. The piece with the rose is the project, but I used the waste areas to create another piece that is readable.

I have tried painters tape but over here its white not blue but I guess it does the same, I have just bought shelf liner but not tested it yet but I have used packing tape and it work god and whey say It lubricate the blade to make it last longer so maybe shelf liner do the same?

The method you describe seams smart but I need to practice more before I try it but I will in the future.

[Wichman]

24 minutes ago, Bo Liljeborn said:

I have tried painters tape but over here its white not blue but I guess it does the same, I have just bought shelf liner but not tested it yet but I have used packing tape and it work god and whey say It lubricate the blade to make it last longer so maybe shelf liner do the same?

The method you describe seams smart but I need to practice more before I try it but I will in the future.

Just something to keep in mind.