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Posted

Wondering if anyone has one and what they think of it, as far as quality and craftsmanship is concerned. 

The CTS model is on sale for $900.00 and am thinking of getting one. Expensive yes, but it’s a hell of a lot cheaper than a visit to the ER.

Posted (edited)

I do not have one, I have looked them over several times.  I think not only are they the safest saw currently but looked to me like they are very well built.  If I had the money and wasn't so old I would have one.  But I love the saw I have.

Edited by Scrappile
Posted

They always run $899. They are basically a job site saw with a small footprint. It has a basic universal motor so it is noisy. It is a great safe saw for a small workshop but do not expect it to be a cabinet saw. The break system is what you are paying for. It is a peace of mind thing if you need that. Job sites are a great place for them because so many different people can be using the same saw each day. They have thought of everything and yes it has plastic parts as well to help with the 65 lbs weight thing. Table is optional. I do not have one. have no intentions of ever owning that type saw with that break system. It will handle most woods if using a good sharp blade. It will not disappoint. Just remember when you trip that break system you need to purchase the entire system and also a new blade. So care must be used in what you cut and how you cut. That could get pricey for sure. When Bosch came out with their version before Sawstop took them to court and won, had a much better system and less costly system. they are not allowed to sell in USA. Peace of mind and safety it is a good saw. Can not go wrong. 

Posted

I have the contracter saw stop with the upgraded fence....and also would not trade it for anything....except maybe the pro sawstop that @rjweb has :).  I bought mine used from a neighbor who was a cabinet maker and he had 3 of them... mostly for liability reasons. I also love that it is very safe.  Make sure you don't run wet lumber or a nail through it since it can set off the brake (which cost $100 to replace).  The folks at Woodcraft said to make sure your lumber is 10 - 12% or less for moisture content...so I also bought a moisture meter....  Great machine.  

Posted

I have had my Sawstop PCS 3hp with the industrial base.  I love the thing and how well it works.   I know the Sawstop is not for everyone.  I had a Jet Exacta 3 hp CA into saw.  I showed my wife the Sawstop info and video and she was insistent that I get it immediately.  There were no questions on the price or anything.  

I think my tools are a great investment as there cost has gone up 50 to 100%since I bought them !😊😊😊😊

Posted
18 hours ago, MarieC said:

I have the contracter saw stop with the upgraded fence....and also would not trade it for anything....except maybe the pro sawstop that @rjweb has :).  I bought mine used from a neighbor who was a cabinet maker and he had 3 of them... mostly for liability reasons. I also love that it is very safe.  Make sure you don't run wet lumber or a nail through it since it can set off the brake (which cost $100 to replace).  The folks at Woodcraft said to make sure your lumber is 10 - 12% or less for moisture content...so I also bought a moisture meter....  Great machine.  

 I didn’t know they have a fence upgrade

Posted (edited)
53 minutes ago, Gonzo said:

 I didn’t know they have a fence upgrade

Not for the saw you are looking at.

It is a SAFER saw to use especially when you have the safety feature turned on. If it is not is just like every other tablesaw and can hurt you quickly. Using proper sleds, push sticks, hold downs and so forth go a long way to adding to that safety. Paying attention and doing cuts that just do not look right or feel right are also factors. Every tool in the shop can hurt you. Work save and produce some fantastic projects and then show us.

https://www.sawstop.com/build/compact-table-saw/

Edited by JTTHECLOCKMAN
Posted
2 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Not for the saw you are looking at.

It is a SAFER saw to use especially when you have the safety feature turned on. If it is not is just like every other tablesaw and can hurt you quickly. Using proper sleds, push sticks, hold downs and so forth go a long way to adding to that safety. Paying attention and doing cuts that just do not look right or feel right are also factors. Every tool in the shop can hurt you. Work save and produce some fantastic projects and then show us.

https://www.sawstop.com/build/compact-table-saw/

I couldn’t agree more JT!  For example, SawStops aren’t any different when it comes to kickbacks. (Though I have seen reviews that they do avoid kickbacks)
There have been times when I’m using the table saw and say to myself ‘DON’T DO IT’. And believe it or not, I listen. 
I recently retired and was given a nice retirement bonus. I’m thinking of what to do with it. And a SawStop is on the list. 
I have a nephew who teaches High school shop and he says it well worth it to buy one. 
For what it’s worth I have a Bosch 4100 portable TS with stand that is 10 years old and it works just fine for what I do. It has its limitations and I know the limitations of this saw. 
one other thing about safety, is making sure I have a sharp blade. 
 

Thank you all for your input, very much appreciated 

Posted
26 minutes ago, Gonzo said:

I couldn’t agree more JT!  For example, SawStops aren’t any different when it comes to kickbacks. (Though I have seen reviews that they do avoid kickbacks)
There have been times when I’m using the table saw and say to myself ‘DON’T DO IT’. And believe it or not, I listen. 
I recently retired and was given a nice retirement bonus. I’m thinking of what to do with it. And a SawStop is on the list. 
I have a nephew who teaches High school shop and he says it well worth it to buy one. 
For what it’s worth I have a Bosch 4100 portable TS with stand that is 10 years old and it works just fine for what I do. It has its limitations and I know the limitations of this saw. 
one other thing about safety, is making sure I have a sharp blade. 
 

Thank you all for your input, very much appreciated 

They avoid kickbacks because it is well tuned, they use a riving knife to prevent pinching and the fence is not scewed inward. All can be done on any other saw. Yes in spite of what people think, a sharp blade is safer than a dull one in any tool. 

Posted

I have the small jobsite saw. I am pleased with it. It does everything I need it to do, even ripping 2” maple. Even though I don’t do that a lot.
I bought it because I could not reach across my full sized table saw and it caused a dangerous situation. I was cutting the top off of a box I had made and when I couldn’t finish the cut because I am too short, it threw the box back at me!  
 

Posted
13 minutes ago, Sycamore67 said:

I used to cut box tops off on my table saw and never got perfect results.  Now,I do it on the bandsaw with much better resukts.

 

That’s a good idea. What size blade do you use, and what TPI? I’ve been making 9”5”x2” boxes and have been cutting the top off on tablesaw.  I also have not been o thrilled with results 

Posted

I use whatever blade is on the bandsaw.  Typically, A 1/2" Woodslicer blade that I use for resaw.  It is from Highland Woodworking.

I have made a couple sanding boards from 1/4" mdf and glue a sheet of sand paper.  I use this to sand the cut surface. I am careful to sand in a circle both CW and  CCW.

Posted (edited)

Make a sled or a cradle to cut on a tablesaw and get excellent cuts. You would get more precision cuts on a tablesaw. here is a sled I made for miter slots. you can get the idea and just build accordingly. 

 

Copy of IMGP0496.JPG

IMGP0006.JPG

 

 

Edited by JTTHECLOCKMAN
Posted
10 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Make a sled or a cradle to cut on a tablesaw and get excellent cuts. You would get more precision cuts on a tablesaw. here is a sled I made for miter slots. you can get the idea and just build accordingly. 

 

Copy of IMGP0496.JPG

IMGP0006.JPG

 

 

I don’t quite understand your second picture. 

Posted (edited)
23 minutes ago, Gonzo said:

I don’t quite understand your second picture. 

It is a cut off sled that Use alot for pen turning stuff. What is on the sled is small cutoffs for a pen blanks. here is the pen I made with them. It was basically an example of a sled that rides in the miter slots that you can use to cut tops off boxes very easily. The first photo was an example of a sled you can make to ride on your fence. That is all they are. Making jigs is the fun part of woodworking. 

 

 

 

Copy of Copy of IMGP0892.JPG

Copy of IMGP0881.JPG

Edited by JTTHECLOCKMAN
Posted
12 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

It is a cut off sled that Use alot for pen turning stuff. What is on the sled is small cutoffs for a pen blanks. here is the pen I made with them. It was basically an example of a sled that rides in the miter slots that you can use to cut tops off boxes very easily. The first photo was an example of a sled you can make to ride on your fence. That is all they are. Making jigs is the fun part of woodworking. 

 

 

 

Copy of Copy of IMGP0892.JPG

Copy of IMGP0881.JPG

I agree, making jigs is fun. I have 3 sleds that I use on my table saw.  Cross cut, 45 degree, and my favorite, jointer sled. 
I’ll have to come up with one for boxes. Nice pens!

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