first scroll saw: figuring out tensioning and vibration

[Owad]

I bought my first scroll saw over the weekend, an RBI Hawk 216-3. It's pretty old, but it was cheaper than a Wen, and doesn't look like it was used much. I got it set up, and it vibrated terribly and something was very wrong with the tension. After about two hours of fiddling, I realized that the blade installed in it, and the test tube full of vintage blades I got with it, were all an inch too long.

I managed to scrounge up one 5" blade, which is the size indicated in the manual. On slow and medium speed, it's great. On high, it vibrates quite a bit unsecured, but seems pretty reasonable if I clamp it down to the workbench. I've never used a scroll saw before, so I don't have any point of comparison. Does that seem reasonable? It was originally had a stand, but the legs were removed and it was given an MDF skirt, to sit on a bench top.

Can anybody recommend a big variety pack of 5" blades that are cheap enough I won't feel bad about breaking them, but good enough they won't inhibit learning?

[Dak0ta52]

First of all, welcome to the forum, Tom. That looks like a nice saw from the picture but unfortunately I can comment any further on the saw itself. I have a Pegas and have been completely happy with it since it was purchased. There are many members here that have experience with the RBI and I'm sure some will chime in to provide you with advise.

As far as blades, again that is more of a personal preference. Again, I like thee Pegas blades and purchase mine from Denny at Artcrafterslonline.com. Denny is a member here also. He has good prices on blades and can work you up with assortment packs if that is what you're seeking. Other members here will recommend other blades (Olsen, Flying Dutchman, etc.). You choice of blades will depend a lot on what you plan to cut. Thicker pieces of wood require heavier blades whereas thinner wood is typically cut with thinner blades. I, personally, cut portrait type pieces and generally use the smallest of blades. (2/0, #1) Scroll saw blades are 5-inches. The "size" is measured in thickness/teeth per inch. The higher the number, the larger "thicker" the blade. Again, Denny at Artcraftersonline.com can help a lot with blade choice when you determine what you want to cut.

When you start cutting, be sure to share pictures. It inspires us and often times courteous criticism is very beneficial in your education of learning to scroll. Personally I will say the members of this forum have a vast knowledge and have learned a lot by just reading their many posts. Don't hesitate to ask questions.

Happy scrolling.

[preprius]

I agree with above post for blades.

specifically Pegas MGT  modified geometry.   #00 , thru #7  

#3 is a great starting point. 

 

Edited August 16, 2024 by preprius

[OCtoolguy]

  Hawk saws have a tension system a bit different from other saws. I suggest that you go to Bushton.com and watch their video on how to adjust the tension at the rear of the saw. Once it is adjusted correctly, you shouldn't have to mess with it again until a blade change. Hawks are a very smooth running saw so getting it all adjusted correctly will be beneficial. Best of luck on your journey. There is a definite learning curve. As for blades, I started out with the variety pack from Flying Dutchman. I now use nothing but Pegas MGT-style blades. 

[Owad]

Thank you, Dak0ta52, preprius, and OCtoolguy.

I'm putting together my blade order: a three dozen each pack of Pegas MGT #1R, #3R, #5R, and #7R. It sounds like that should cover ordinary use. Then I was thinking about getting a dozen pack each of Pegas #2/0R MGT and Pegas #3 Spiral Blades just to see what they're like, and because I don't want to pay for shipping later. And I want to do try some thin sheet metal, so probably a pack of $5 and #2 metal blades. Is the Pegas Scroll Sandpaper worth it?

Here's a video of how much vibration I'm getting, with the saw clamped down to the bench. I don't think it seems too bad, but you're certainly not balancing a nickel on it, and I don't have any other point of comparison. Would you be satisfied with this level of vibration on this scroll saw, or does it need further adjustment. I've already done the typical adjustments, lubricating, and a bit more.

[Jim McDonald]

Take a few minutes and give Denny a call (DM if you need the number). He will help you pick blades based on your wants and needs and help your learning curve.

Everyone has a favorite blade or two and you will develop your own go to set up as you progress. Some here like smaller and others seem to be a fan of bigger, heavier blades. Just like some of us like our blades pulled just a bit tighter.

[OCtoolguy]

It's hard to tell from a video but I hear a noise that I don't recall hearing on my Hawk. What drive mechanism is on your saw? Belt or drive link? It sounds like a knock of some sort. Most Hawks run very quiet and smoothly but not sure about the short ones.

[kmmcrafts]

I think the noise is more because the saw is not mounted to a big heavy stand like most Hawks.. Reminds me of my first Hawk saw when I first brought it home... the legs were bolted to a fairly large piece of 3/4" plywood because the previous owner had a dirt floor in the shop.. The plywood over the years was bowed big time and was like a rocking horse  on my brand new flat concrete floor of my new shop.. sounded much like this saw does and was a bear to try to use because of it.. once I took the plywood off and loosen the stand legs and let them sort of settle in on the floor where I was to permanently keep it smoothed out and quieted down tremendously.