Need help with Pegas Clamp which is slipping on my EX-21

[MarieC]

I know this topic has been discussed on here but I didn't have any luck using the search tool.  I think I remember you can sand or file the screw(s).  I just cannot remember the grit of sandpaper to use and how not to round off the screw while sanding/filing it.  Also, I believe you have to make sure your arms are paralle (which mine are).  Would be nice to have this fixed.  I could just buy new clamps but thought there was a fix I might be able to do.  Thank you for your help in the mean time.  

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

180 or 220 grit will work fine. All you are doing is taking off any oils from blades and roughing the shiny point of the bolts. This needs to be done with all clamps from time to time. It also helps to sand both ends and both sides of the blades before installing too. Again either grit of paper will work 

[kmmcrafts]

If sanding them doesn’t work you can probably just replace the rotating tips and set screw. Seyco.com has the kit to replace them both. 

[MarieC]

11 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

180 or 220 grit will work fine. All you are doing is taking off any oils from blades and roughing the shiny point of the bolts. This needs to be done with all clamps from time to time. It also helps to sand both ends and both sides of the blades before installing too. Again either grit of paper will work 

Okay, sounds good I will give that a try  

[MarieC]

4 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

If sanding them doesn’t work you can probably just replace the rotating tips and set screw. Seyco.com has the kit to replace them both. 

I saw the kit.  Do they actually fit the Pegas clamp?

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, MarieC said:

I saw the kit.  Do they actually fit the Pegas clamp?

Denny will have the kits too, but Seyco also sells parts for Pegas so they should work fine as they're all the same size I believe. 

While you have the thumb screw out make sure the rotating tip spins fairly easy, if it doesn't then you probably need to pull it out and wipe the O-ring off and apply a small amount of non-petroleum grease on the O-ring. Not supposed to use Vaseline I guess but that is what I used for years on mine before I found that out, LOL.. I now use dielectric grease.. 

[TAIrving]

19 hours ago, MarieC said:

I saw the kit.  Do they actually fit the Pegas clamp?

I have purchased the kits from Seyco and they fit my Pegas saw perfectly. 

[BadBob]

I keep these on hand just in case I have a problem.

[MarieC]

 

Bob @BadBob, that sounds like a good idea.  I think I will order a kit...thanks for the heads up.

Edited March 31 by MarieC

[Mike Bolles]

Hi Marie, I have something you can try that won't cost you a thing. I have had the same trouble with my clamps.

I take the left thumb screw and back it out until it is flush with the inside edge of the clamp. Then I turn the right thumb screw until it clamps the blade against the left side (the thumb screw being flush with it making a more flat surface. Since I started doing this I have had little to no slippage. If it works for you, then you can loosen the table screws and center the table with the blade as it is.

I know some will think it's a bad idea, but it works very well for me and I have been doing it for several months with only good results. It's also easy for me to change blades like that.

Mike

[Mike Bolles]

Marie, I know I said thumb screw on the left side, but I should have said allen screw. Sorry.

Mike

[MarieC]

17 hours ago, Mike Bolles said:

Hi Marie, I have something you can try that won't cost you a thing. I have had the same trouble with my clamps.

I take the left thumb screw and back it out until it is flush with the inside edge of the clamp. Then I turn the right thumb screw until it clamps the blade against the left side (the thumb screw being flush with it making a more flat surface. Since I started doing this I have had little to no slippage. If it works for you, then you can loosen the table screws and center the table with the blade as it is.

I know some will think it's a bad idea, but it works very well for me and I have been doing it for several months with only good results. It's also easy for me to change blades like that.

Mike

Mike, let me ponder that.  In theory it sounds good, but my only concern is the wearing on the edge of the clamp after multiple uses....

[kmmcrafts]

Not saying this doesn't work in some weird way but it'd be interesting to understand how you can gain more blade pinching surface by moving the screw to the edge.. you're still pinching the blade with the same diameter set / thumb screw.. somehow this doesn't make any sense to me.. again.. not saying it's not working like that..

IF I had to take a stab at guessing why it holds better I would say first off.. the tips of these screws get slight wear in them over time and you can use some measuring instruments to prove that point.. There becomes a imbedded spot where that blade has been pinched hundreds / thousands of times.. IF you were to look at the end of the screws sometimes it's bad enough to see with the naked eye a shiny spot where that blade had been for a long time.. slightly turning the screw can move where that slot is now positioned and may work good for short term again.. sanding them sometimes can help but in my experience it is short term compared to just putting in a new set. The kit's are pretty cheap when you buy one set.. remember one set replaces for both top and bottom clamps.. don't make the mistake I did the first time I ordered and boght 4 sets because I wanted to have one extra on hand.. not realizing I bought 3 extra sets instead of one extra, LOL.. One set comes with two set screws and two rotating tips with new o-rings on them. 

I should also mention that the rotation tip should spin freely.. if it doesn't then you'll be wearing these out faster.. good clean threads on the thumb screw also will do wonders for clamping power.  

[Mike Bolles]

Thanks Kevin for setting me straight. I will certainly keep to myself from this point forward.

Mike

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Not saying this doesn't work in some weird way but it'd be interesting to understand how you can gain more blade pinching surface by moving the screw to the edge.. you're still pinching the blade with the same diameter set / thumb screw.. somehow this doesn't make any sense to me.. again.. not saying it's not working like that..

Mike there is nothing wrong with your answer. I do the same with my RBI clamps and it is actually a recommended practice. What you do is line the allen screw with edge of inside of clamp on one side. Match the same thing on the bottom clamp. When you squeeze the opposite allen screw or thumbscrew against the blade it now will not have a tendency to bend at the center point even if you are off on installing the blade all the way in the clamp. That is the purpose of doing this. It gives the side of the blade somewhere to rest flat against instead of floating in thin air. 

[kmmcrafts]

3 hours ago, Mike Bolles said:

Thanks Kevin for setting me straight. I will certainly keep to myself from this point forward.

Mike

Mike, I'm not trying to correct anyone, but rather trying to understand the logic.. we all learn from one another this way and my post is explaining my logic.. in no way was I trying to say anyone is wrong or right.. Doesn't make sense to me how the pinching point gets any more surface area when the size of the screws are still the same.. Maybe I'll give this a try as I was always told to "adjust the screws so the blade is centered in the clamp".. 

I'm going to give this a try.. speaking up about it is a good thing again that's how we learn. If we don't have discussions like this then what's the point of a forum like this..  

1 hour ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Not saying this doesn't work in some weird way but it'd be interesting to understand how you can gain more blade pinching surface by moving the screw to the edge.. you're still pinching the blade with the same diameter set / thumb screw.. somehow this doesn't make any sense to me.. again.. not saying it's not working like that..

Mike there is nothing wrong with your answer. I do the same with my RBI clamps and it is actually a recommended practice. What you do is line the allen screw with edge of inside of clamp on one side. Match the same thing on the bottom clamp. When you squeeze the opposite allen screw or thumbscrew against the blade it now will not have a tendency to bend at the center point even if you are off on installing the blade all the way in the clamp. That is the purpose of doing this. It gives the side of the blade somewhere to rest flat against instead of floating in thin air. 

Thanks for chiming in JT, you somewhat explain the theory a little.. I still don't understand how that really works but I'm  going to give it a try..

All three of my Hawk manuals say you can remove the thumb screw and lightly sand it but if the set screw gets worn they do not recommend you replace it as they have it centered and loc tight in place so it's time to replace the chuck if the set screw gets messed up..  Not trying to say I'm right you're wrong.. simply saying what my manual says as well as the video RBI has on the website about the subject. Hawk changed things so many times in their span of making saws that again I'm not saying you're wrong.. your manual probably does say that.. mine says it's centered and replace it when set screw is worn.. I'm obviously not going to buy new clamps because of a $0.50 set screw so I have always just removed the old one and used blue loc-tite on the new one and centered it as they had it. 

I'm going to try and see if it helps my clamping power.. you guys maybe on to something.. I've seen topics where others have said they "like to adjust it to one side".. I always just thought it was a preference thing as it really doesn't matter where you put that set screw so long as it protrudes enough to contact the blade and that both top and bottom are set in the same way.. but I've never ever heard anything about it having better clamping power.

[MarieC]

5 hours ago, Mike Bolles said:

Thanks Kevin for setting me straight. I will certainly keep to myself from this point forward.

Mike

Mike, Thank you for your suggestion.  As Kevin said, please do give ideas as what has worked for you or just your thoughts.  We love to hear from different voices as it makes for better solutions.  The Village is a very safe place to voice our opinions....Thank you again for your input.  So far, the method that @JTTHECLOCKMAN of sanding the end  plus a bit of praying as I tighten the screw  has worked for me since I did not have any extra screws at this time.  I do think having extra screws in stock is a great idea that @kmmcrafts suggested.  (I have extra brakes for my SawStop table saw so why not an extra set of screws for my little scroll saw?)....But if my screw slips again and I am still waiting on my screw parts, I will have your idea as a back up which believe me will save the day...as I hate it when my blade slips! Thanks again!

Edited April 2 by MarieC

[Wichman]

When I adjust the set screw on the quick clamp, on the Hegner, I use the following method; first, back the set screw off a bit, next, use the largest feeler gauge in the set ( .035" ) and lay it in the blade slot. Use the thumb screw to hold the feeler gauge, apply only light pressure, this gives a solid reference point for the set screw, gently tighten the set screw against the feeler gauge, release the thumb screw and remove the feeler gauge.

You're done at this point.

 

[kmmcrafts]

4 minutes ago, Wichman said:

When I adjust the set screw on the quick clamp, on the Hegner, I use the following method; first, back the set screw off a bit, next, use the largest feeler gauge in the set ( .035" ) and lay it in the blade slot. Use the thumb screw to hold the feeler gauge, apply only light pressure, this gives a solid reference point for the set screw, gently tighten the set screw against the feeler gauge, release the thumb screw and remove the feeler gauge.

You're done at this point.

 

That is exactly how I set up the position of the set screws too.. I'm not sure what size feeler gauge I use but anyway.. I also do it this way so I know both upper and lower clamps are in the exact same position. 

[Scrappile]

I have one. I have been looking for.  I have the Hegner "Quick clamp on my Hegner saw.  I love it and would like a similar one for my Hawk upper clamp.  I can not find one.  I got a lesser one, but it is not the same. The kurl knob is not as big and it does not have a replaceable tip.   I have spent hours searching. But no cigar.  The hegner is metric so it will not work.  needs to be 1/4x20 on the threads.  I think it would be a huge improvement to the Hawk.  

[kmmcrafts]

47 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

I have one. I have been looking for.  I have the Hegner "Quick clamp on my Hegner saw.  I love it and would like a similar one for my Hawk upper clamp.  I can not find one.  I got a lesser one, but it is not the same. The kurl knob is not as big and it does not have a replaceable tip.   I have spent hours searching. But no cigar.  The hegner is metric so it will not work.  needs to be 1/4x20 on the threads.  I think it would be a huge improvement to the Hawk.  

Someone here who is a machinist made up some for the Hawk.. He said it was an improvement and was going to make a set up for me but then messaged a few times and then said he was working a lot of overtime so it might be a while.. I don't even remember who that was now.. this was 7 or so years ago.  LOL Whoever it was searched high and low for something and even inquired to Bushton MFG about it but they didn't like the idea I guess and no place to get any like this.. If I remember correctly he just drilled the screws out on a lathe and then made them the size to use the inserts from Excalibur.. 

 

[Mike Bolles]

Thanks John T.

Mike

[Scrappile]

I can find a kurl knob, but not the right size stud.  And not the replaceable tip. Thinking of contacting Advance Machinery and asking them where their Come from, but I know to get just one like I want would be cost prohibited.  But who knows?

[MarieC]

2 hours ago, Scrappile said:

I have one. I have been looking for.  I have the Hegner "Quick clamp on my Hegner saw.  I love it and would like a similar one for my Hawk upper clamp.  I can not find one.  I got a lesser one, but it is not the same. The kurl knob is not as big and it does not have a replaceable tip.   I have spent hours searching. But no cigar.  The hegner is metric so it will not work.  needs to be 1/4x20 on the threads.  I think it would be a huge improvement to the Hawk.  

Paul if you or Kevin @kmmcrafts find one, I would like one for my Hawk as well.  I did replace the upper and lower clamps as soon as I got them with a newer style, but still not super happy with them.  Paul could you take a picture of yours that you have on your Hegner so I can see what you are talking about.

[MarieC]

3 hours ago, Wichman said:

When I adjust the set screw on the quick clamp, on the Hegner, I use the following method; first, back the set screw off a bit, next, use the largest feeler gauge in the set ( .035" ) and lay it in the blade slot. Use the thumb screw to hold the feeler gauge, apply only light pressure, this gives a solid reference point for the set screw, gently tighten the set screw against the feeler gauge, release the thumb screw and remove the feeler gauge.

You're done at this point.

 

I knew that the blades should be aligned...but I just did it by eyeballing it.  That seems like a much better method.