Bauer vs. Pegas and others

[GregBennett]

I have had the Bauer for over a year now. I cut Baltic Birch and clear pine for the most part. I've been using Flying Dutchman Polar 7s for the most part with the pine. I find them to work better than the 5s or the 8s. I've tried a number of different blade types, but find the Polar gives me the most control. My issue is that it cuts rather slowly in comparison to Baltic Birch and the blades wear down sooner than I'd like. I just ordered some Pegas blades and I'll see if they cut better. I'm curious as to whether the higher end saws cut more easily. Their blade speed and watts are similar. Has anyone used different grade saws for comparison?

 

 

[Denny Knappen]

I see you ordered Pegas blades, but you didn't mention which ones.  FD Polar #7 is similar to Pegas #7 Skip in size and tpi.  Both do not have reverse teeth.  For longer lasting blades, I would suggest the Pegas Modified Geometry blades.  The big difference is they are more aggressive.

As a Pegas dealer, yes there is a big difference in the quality.  One is less vibration.  I also like the coating on the table with very few scratches.  And the Pegas Chuck Heads.

[Hawk]

I've been using Flying Dutchman Polar blades since the 90's. And yes, they do seem to cut slower than other blades. A couple of years ago I start branching out beyond the Polar to Penguin Silver and they seem to do better on stock up to 1/2", at least better than the Polar. I also started using Pegas MGT blades (3's and 5's) and they do so much better on everything over 1/2", especially the hardwoods (like yellowheart, Purpleheart, Bloodwood and such) But that's my experience! (your results may vary (LOL))

So for me I keep FD Polar for thin stuff and Penguin for slightly thicker and the Pegas for everything over 1/2", but blade is a personal choice and there is no one right answer to that question. Find what works for you.

I also have a Bauer (My #3 saw) and I upgraded to the Pegas blade holders. Huge improvement as far as I'm concerned. As for cutting, for me all 3 saws "cut" about equally as well, but like @Denny Knappen mentioned, vibration is a big factor. My Hawk is rock solid with no vibration at all, the King is close behind. My Bauer is close with the only issue being the start when I hit the pedal, there's a pretty good "clunk" which i feel in the table and results in a bit of vibration for a few seconds. 

Hope this helps a little.

 

Chris

Edited May 1 by Hawk

[Jim McDonald]

I have used Delta, Hitchai, Dewalt and now running a 21" Pegas.

I have cut with Olson, FD, Pegas, Bosch and even Vermont American blades in sizes from Superior Puzzle to #7. Pretty much 1, 3, and 5 Pegas MGT now and the puzzle for thin or super intricate work.

Everyone develops an attachment to a combination of blades, speeds and feeds.

The saw makes a difference in vibrations and table size. In my feeble little mind, the person running the saw is the biggest difference.

[GregBennett]

I  ordered #3 and #5 Super skip Pegas blades yesterday. When I read Denny's reply, I ordered Pegas Modified Geometry #5 and #7 from his company. I found his prices to be lower than others and shipping costs to be reasonable. I don't have any issues with the Bauer in respect to vibration. I have it on a Rube Goldberg stand that was originally a saw horse with a 2x12 top. I put some shelves into it and raised it using lumber I had on hand so that It would be closer to eye level. It's not solid as a rock, but works. At some point in time I'd like to modify it, but it's too heavy for me to lift. I never thought an 80 lb. weight would be an issue for me, but time has taken it's toll. I found some #3 Pegas Modified Geometry blades I've had for a while, and they did a decent job but due to their thin kerf it took a while for me to adjust to making turns. I have the Pegas chucks on it. I've had some difficulty along the way with getting them tight enough and periodically I use the tightening tool designed by Steve Good. However, I took a thumbscrew off my old DeWalt and substituted it. It has ridges on the turning part and I found I don't need the tool with the old DeWalt.

Thanks to everyone who responded. I cut every day and keep learning things through trial and error and the folks on this site.  Greg Bennett

 

 

[kmmcrafts]

I don’t know what it is about the DeWalt thumb screws but I’ve always switched out my screws for the DeWalt style. For me it’s about the shape of the plastic grip handle shape and style. Maybe because I ran a DeWalt for so many years production cutting and just got a feel for those screws. 
 

Id like to give a Bauer saw a test drive someday. Doubtful I’d actually buy and use one as arm lock thing would be an issue with me I think. Maybe with time I  could get used to it. I’m used to a spring loaded arm of the Hawk and I broke the spring on one of the saws I had which drove me nuts having to lift up the arm. Had to stop my project and go to the hardware for a spring and repair that right away as I couldn’t take it.  

[GregBennett]

I don't need a thumb screw at present but I found the best deal is with Walmart-DeWalt Knob Asy Clamp OEM 286303-00 for $15.95 (plus shipping)

I hear you about the arm lock. I use a block of wood for the most part and otherwise use a wooden dowel if I lock it in place. It would be nice to lift the arm and have it stay where I raised it and be able to release it automatically.

How does it work?

I see that Hawk saws are made in Kansas so I suspect shipping to the east coast is costly.

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, GregBennett said:

I don't need a thumb screw at present but I found the best deal is with Walmart-DeWalt Knob Asy Clamp OEM 286303-00 for $15.95 (plus shipping)

I hear you about the arm lock. I use a block of wood for the most part and otherwise use a wooden dowel if I lock it in place. It would be nice to lift the arm and have it stay where I raised it and be able to release it automatically.

How does it work?

I see that Hawk saws are made in Kansas so I suspect shipping to the east coast is costly.

I ordered a new Hawk in 2018 and back then shipping was around $100 so yeah little pricey BUT, they are in a huge box and they weigh around 130lbs. plus the packing materials so I'd bet the shipping weight must be around 150lbs. I see they raised the prices of the saws since then too. In 2018 the 26" saw was $1500.. 

Best bet is find a good used saw local to you.. seems the resale value on these is only around $300. I've got two of them and now since going to laser and cnc side of things I don't need 4 scroll saws taking up space. I've had one saw listed now for about 4 weeks listed at $450 and only one person was interested but he thought I was in a different town closer to him. Two towns pronounce and spelled very close to each other but on opposite sides of the state, LOL. I always get inquires from people thinking its the town on the other side of where I am, LOL. Otherwise no bites on the saw. 

[Scrappile]

I have a real nice 226vs I'd love to sell.  I paid $275 for it, it was listed at $300.  I watched it for 3 month and then offered $275.  They took the offer, said I was the only one who showed any interest.  I would love to sell it, but I know it would not sell.  Not a thing wrong with the saw, just not a good fit for me. I would love to replace it with another Hegner.  

[GregBennett]

Out of curiosity I checked Craigslist and found two different Hegners one in North Carolina and one in South Carolina with prices $200-$300. Both were about an hours away. The closest Hawk was in West Virginia, about 3 hours away with no price listed. So there are used saws out there in my area. At this time, I'm content with my Bauer and from what I've gathered from the responses I've gotten, it cuts at about the same rate as others. I'm looking forward to trying some of the Pegas blades on thicker wood. 

[rjweb]

I wish we could find a used hegner saw in my area, never see any and i check every day, and on top of that you can't buy a new one back ordered and they keep changing the date when it will avaiable, RJ

[Old Joe]

I have had a Pegas since 2019, after using a Dewalt for years before that.A friend of mine bought a Wen. Here’s my two bits worth: There is nothing I can make on my Pegas that I couldn’t make with his Wen. That said, it’s like driving a Sentra and driving a Lexus, in that they both will get you to where you’re going, but one is a lot more comfortable to drive.

As to blades, I have been through different companies and I feel passionate about the quality of Pegas & Flying Dutchman. Both are, in my opinion, superior to any other blades, but the Pegas quality  overall wins for me. I use Pegas spirals any time that I can, but if I had to settle for one flat blade only, it would be Pegas MG #3.I find it the most versatile.Thankfully, I don’t have to settle for just one, 

[GregBennett]

I've now used some Pegas super skip I got from a local shop and they worked fairly well on the 3/4" pine, but I had to guard for the blade going left. I have some Pegas  MG 5's and 7's on the way, but it's taking quite a long time to get them. I think if I like them I'll go to the local supplier. For 1/4" Baltic Birch I use anywhere from a FD 3-5 and they bow to my every move. 

My DeWalt just doesn't work right. I had it overhauled by the DeWalt Charlotte service center. They shipped it back in a huge box with the table connected.The table crashed into the saw and the upper bracket broke off in the slot that pivots the back end of the table. The bolt that holds the bottom of the table to where you set the angle dis attached and I can't keep the table square with the upper arm no matter how hard I tighten it. I went through three replacements with Amazon and all were defective and returned, so I went with the Bauer. Today I experimented using a very long bicycle brake cable looped though the arm release in the back and found that if I held my arm out I could release the arm while seated. I've been using a block of wood mostly, but have a dowel that I've used to pull the arm release.

Does anyone think I should take the plunge for the 24" Hegner for $300?

 

[Wichman]

Take the plunge on the Hegner and learn how to switch to the short stroke. You will not believe the level of control.

I've tried about every blade available and I keep coming back to the FD Polar blades, I use the #1 for 90% of my cutting, I'll change to a #2/0 for detail cuts, #3 or #5 if cutting gentle curves.

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, GregBennett said:

 

Does anyone think I should take the plunge for the 24" Hegner for $300?

 

Probably be a lot of varied opinions on this.. For me it would greatly depend on the saw's options.. many of the older Hegners do not have a blade tension lever at the front of the saw.. or quick clamps etc.. there are features that make the newer models more appealing than the older model Hegners and same deal with the Hawk saws.. While they all "look" mostly the same.. there are features or lack of features that would make or break a deal for me.. Many people seem to forget about the features and see a cheap price and tell everyone to grab it up when it really may not be a very user friendly saw like the newer model would be. 

On the Hegner I guess there is the options to buy the parts to get the nicer features of the newer saws.. but then you're dumping a few hundred into an older saw when you could just wait for the right deal on one that already has the goodies on it.

IF I were you I would show photos of the saw and ask if it has the goodies or not if you personally don't know what you're looking at or for. Many folks on here know these saws well enough to spot the things to look or look out for. A 24" saw is a long reach if your blade tension lever is clear to the back of the saw... not a big deal if you're not doing a lot of inside ( fretwork ) cuts but could be a pain in the back side if that is the main type of cutting you do. Everyone is different and does different cutting so it will be a big opinionated question.. 

[GregBennett]

I just watched a number of videos on the Hegner and you're points are well taken. I think that the tension knob in the back would be a very long reach for me and might require that I stand up every time I need to use it. I watched a video of how you insert the blade as well as something on the quick clamps. Everything I do on my saw involves pieces with a large number of inside cuts. This may not be the saw for me.

[GregBennett]

The seller sent me some photos of the saw that's for sale. It looks like it's got the quick release attachment.

In two of the photos, it shows a metal dowel connected on the front arm with a cable connected. Does anyone know what this is?

[kmmcrafts]

45 minutes ago, GregBennett said:

The seller sent me some photos of the saw that's for sale. It looks like it's got the quick release attachment.

In two of the photos, it shows a metal dowel connected on the front arm with a cable connected. Does anyone know what this is?

Are you sure it's a cable connected and not a hose? My Hegner has a metal pipe in the upper arm at the front with the hose running back to the bellows for the air to blow the sawdust off of your project. Two opinions on this set up if that's what it is on the one you're looking at.  First thought is it's nice to have that blower out of the way and you never have to fuss with adjusting it etc. Second is after you actually use the saw it's pretty annoying to have the sawdust blowing directly at you and into your lap if sitting at the saw I get sawdust all over my jacket, lap and actually towards my face. So this is one thing I'll address if I ever use the saw regularly. Currently I just play around with it from time to time trying to learn the saw and see what all the hype is about Hegners. I don't think I would have ever bought a Hegner but since this one was free who can pass that up.. LOL. So far I love to saw with it aside from the sawdust blowing at me. Other observations include the table is quite small.. many fix that by making a top cover to slide over the table.. another is the upper arm doesn't lift up very high for trying to insert blade on larger projects could be a challenge. Saw runs really smooth and quiet. I think I could learn to love the saw quite easily with some minor mods.  

 

[GregBennett]

I wondered about the arm lift. That could be an issue with larger pieces. I no longer use my blower. Instead I've attached a vacuum system, the Scrollnado. There are some very poor design features, so I'm constantly making upgrades, but for me, it's been well worth it. I suppose that if I didn't have something to fiddle with, I'd feel like I'd be missing something. 

I think you're right about the tube being part of the blower. I'm still not sure what the metal dowel and tightening knob do, so I wrote to the seller. I feel like I might be wasting his time since I'm pretty happy with my Bauer saw.

[kmmcrafts]

7 hours ago, GregBennett said:

I wondered about the arm lift. That could be an issue with larger pieces. I no longer use my blower. Instead I've attached a vacuum system, the Scrollnado. There are some very poor design features, so I'm constantly making upgrades, but for me, it's been well worth it. I suppose that if I didn't have something to fiddle with, I'd feel like I'd be missing something. 

I think you're right about the tube being part of the blower. I'm still not sure what the metal dowel and tightening knob do, so I wrote to the seller. I feel like I might be wasting his time since I'm pretty happy with my Bauer saw.

Maybe this is part of the hold down foot? that nobody uses.. Most take that thing off and pitch it into a drawer and then 5 years later cleaning the junk drawer they have no idea what it was for, 

I think the Bauer saw looks like a decent saw to play around with.. They're not bad for a beginner or hobbyist and the price of them is right. If you're content with it then maybe best to just wait until you wear it out or hit the lottery and just want to buy something, LOL It is fun to upgrade to newer and nicer quality saws but it's not fun going from a higher end nice saw to a budget type saw so make those decisions carefully if you live on a tight budget. Kind of like going from a Cadillac to a Ford Pinto or something, still does the job but not nearly as smooth or fun..LOL Or on the flip side going from a Ford Pinto with no A/C etc. to a Cadillac..  

[tomsteve]

On 4/30/2026 at 10:05 AM, GregBennett said:

 I'm curious as to whether the higher end saws cut more easily. Their blade speed and watts are similar. Has anyone used different grade saws for comparison?

 

 

I started with a craftsman bought new 20 years ago. didn't take long for me to get a wee bit addicted to scrolling and that saw to start falling apart. bought a DeWalt 788. had many hours on it when the motor shorted out. bought an Excalibur.

I cant say the DeWalt and EX cut easier but they both definately smoother cutting than the craftsman.

 I do feel the EX cuts slower than the 788,though.

IMO having the saw bolted to the work surface can help quite a bit, too

[kmmcrafts]

On 4/30/2026 at 10:05 AM, GregBennett said:

 I'm curious as to whether the higher end saws cut more easily. Their blade speed and watts are similar. Has anyone used different grade saws for comparison?

 

 

I guess I missed this question until I seen Tom quote it. 

 

Do higher end saws cut more easily? Yes, No, and Maybe... 

Some of the higher end saws have a adjustable blade angle ( for a lack of better term ) where you can adjust the blade to go more straight up and down for precision work or make the blade cut more on an angle for faster cutting. This is where the difference is when some say like driving a Cadillac or a Ford Pinto, LOL Cadillac has all the bells and whistles and the Pinto just a basic car. Lots of people don't even know there saw has these adjustments and others do know but are scared to mess up how it works for them now so they do not play around with these adjustments.  

The Bauer doesn't have these features nor does the DeWalt but the higher end older Excaliburs, Jets, Pegas, and I think the one Grizzly saw does have them features. I have to watch what saws I say do because many of them used to but no longer do such as the King.. The new King is basically like the Bauer now so many of the older saws made like the Excalibur do have but they've cheapened up some brands for the new models and now they don't have these features. 

The saws that have this feature will have slots in the motor mount plate and you loosen the bolts and spin the motor in those slots to make the blade change angles for a faster or slower cutting experience. When Tom mentioned he thought his Excalibur cut slower than his 788.. probably true because the EX may be adjusted to be less aggressive as that is a thing on these higher end saws.. 

Now with that said.. that is why I answered yes, no, and maybe is because it depends on ones personal style of cutting.. and how you have the saw adjusted. If you do fine detail work in thin wood you probably like the less aggressive position and if you adjust the blade angle you may end up messing up the cutting style that you're used to or it may make things easier who knows but having the option and knowing about the option and adjusting it to a cutting style you're used to can make a world of difference in your cutting quality and experience because, if you feel the saw is cutting too slow in thick wood you tend to "push" the wood too much and can make the blade bow and drift etc.. then you don't get good straight cuts. If you have the option to make it cut more aggressively then you can fine tune the saw to help meet your cutting comfort needs better which enhances your final cutting product too. Not only that.. pushing the wood harder into the slow cutting blade generates heat.. heat kills a blade and can also burn the edges of your project.. when you let the blade cut without forcing it through the blades last longer.. 

The newer Hawks have a fully adjustable end piece on the lower arm to change the blade angle and some of the older saws had two positions for the blade clamp to fit in.. one for thicker wood and one for detail cutting.. Their set up is easy to make the blade so out of whack that your not cutting square.. While I like the feature but I think the Excalibur style set up is much better.

Hegner doesn't have a blade angle adjustment but they do have a longer and shorter stroke of the blade by changing the position of the connecting rod on the motor shaft.. bit more cumbersome to adjust but their theory is the longer stroke uses more of the blade and also would cut faster? I have not messed with this feature yet on my Hegner but plan to play around and experiment with it. 

So these are features that make the difference in cheaper saws vrs expensive saws.. not just about how smooth it runs or lack of smoothness.. They all have a blade that goes up and down and cuts wood and can do the same things.. but some have more features to make the experience that much better... IF people will experiment with those features and tune the saw to their own cutting preference..  Are those features worth that extra cost? is a question that would have a different answer from each person because not everyone does the same style cutting.. and not a lot of people go from cutting 1/32 plywood to cutting 2" wood in the same day etc.. but it can improve the experience and quality of completed projects for many people.. 

A lot of people don't adjust the saw but rather "learn to use the saw as is" and they get used to however the saw is set up to cut. As example my first saw was a 2 speed saw.. low speed was way to slow cutting for my liking but high speed was a bit too fast.. I was able to "learn to get used to faster speed cutting easier than trying to be patient at the slower speed.. Now I am still used to that so I run my saws at least 3/4 - full speed on the dial.. I learned to cut faster and that's just my style..  

 

[GregBennett]

What a great answer and the type of information I was looking for. I make and sell trivets made from 3/4 clear yellow pine which can be finicky when it comes to cutting. I recently went through a number of different blades including the Pegas MGs 3,5, and 7. Sometimes it just depends on the particular section of the board I'm cutting. I hate it when I put a blade in and after 4-5 cuts, I have to push the blade much harder than I should. For the most part, I like to let the blade do most of the work. My assumption was that the higher the number on the blade, the more easily it would cut though thicker wood, but I've found that's not always the case.

I like the feature on the Hegner that provides a longer stroke using more of the blade. On the Bauer and DeWalt, most of the blade is never used.  The fact that I would have to reach to the back of a 24" table to tighten the blade convinced me that the older saw wasn't for me. In addition to cutting 3/4 pine, I do most of my work cutting 1/4" Baltic birch and the more complicated the pattern the better, so quick tightening is best for me. I'm a bottom feeder, so a saw that's a top feeder only would be a big adjustment. I have no problem top feeding through the drill hole but when I do that the piece blocks my view of the table and the location of the hole for the blade, if that makes any sense. 

I cut every day for several hours at a clip, so if down the line I'm looking to enhance my experience, I'll take the plunger for a pricier saw. I care more for the experience of cutting then having the final product.  Deciding which one to chose will be a difficult one without having used them.

 

 

 

[kmmcrafts]

9 minutes ago, GregBennett said:

What a great answer and the type of information I was looking for. I make and sell trivets made from 3/4 clear yellow pine which can be finicky when it comes to cutting. I recently went through a number of different blades including the Pegas MGs 3,5, and 7. Sometimes it just depends on the particular section of the board I'm cutting. I hate it when I put a blade in and after 4-5 cuts, I have to push the blade much harder than I should. For the most part, I like to let the blade do most of the work. My assumption was that the higher the number on the blade, the more easily it would cut though thicker wood, but I've found that's not always the case.

I like the feature on the Hegner that provides a longer stroke using more of the blade. On the Bauer and DeWalt, most of the blade is never used.  The fact that I would have to reach to the back of a 24" table to tighten the blade convinced me that the older saw wasn't for me. In addition to cutting 3/4 pine, I do most of my work cutting 1/4" Baltic birch and the more complicated the pattern the better, so quick tightening is best for me. I'm a bottom feeder, so a saw that's a top feeder only would be a big adjustment. I have no problem top feeding through the drill hole but when I do that the piece blocks my view of the table and the location of the hole for the blade, if that makes any sense. 

I cut every day for several hours at a clip, so if down the line I'm looking to enhance my experience, I'll take the plunger for a pricier saw. I care more for the experience of cutting then having the final product.  Deciding which one to chose will be a difficult one without having used them.

 

 

 

This is why I had 4-5 saws in my shop.. I like each one for different purposes and each set up to do certain types of work. Now that I've gone to doing more laser and CNC work I'd like more room in the shop and really don't need 4-5 saws any longer.. It's tough to decide which saws to sell off and which one stays. But that said I do like the way the Excalibur cuts through thicker wood and also like that the saw has a tilting head rather than tilting table for those very rare angle cutting projects that I do. I also like the Hawk saws big table and large 26" throat so I'm likely to keep the EX-21 and one of the two Hawks I have so I'll likely sell the Hegner and one of the Hawks. Actually have one of the Hawks listed on marketplace but only person interested was too far for him to drive at 90 years old. We were going to meet up but then he had time to think it over and decided he also didn't need another saw, LOL. Selling Hawks and Hegners is a whole different ballgame than selling a DeWalt.. years ago when I sold my DeWalt I dang near had people fighting for it, LOL. The last few Deltas I sold did okay too but man seems nobody wants to pay anything more than $150 for a Hawk or Hegner around here.. but sold that old DeWalt for $400 when I only paid $435 for it new and used it hard for 6 years, LOL. Too bad you're not close to Michigan as you could come try out several of my saws, and maybe take one home if you decided you liked one well enough to buy.