Hegner help

[Tom Gi]

I am going through blades like crazy

im using Flying Dutchman ur3-9

some times they will break even without cuting anything

when I put a new blade in the bottom holder and push it up in the holder it is not strain with the top holder does that matter it is off by about 3/8 inch

[rjweb]

Sounds like the tension is not correct, you can call advance machinery, or contact support," support@advmachinery.com, "they are very helpful, RJ

[kmmcrafts]

Do you have the quick clamp or the older style clamp? There is a different set-up for each one I believe.. one is supposed to be tight in the upper chuck and the other is supposed to have some wiggle I think.. I'm not super knowledgeable on Hegners but remember seeing topics about the upper chucks having different set-up for the quick clamp. 

[Tom Gi]

17 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Do you have the quick clamp or the older style clamp? There is a different set-up for each one I believe.. one is supposed to be tight in the upper chuck and the other is supposed to have some wiggle I think.. I'm not super knowledgeable on Hegners but remember seeing topics about the upper chucks having different set-up for the quick clamp. 

I have the quick clamp and tried it loose and tight in the upper arm 

the tension screw I have tried anywhere from 1/2 turn to 2 full turns

[Wichman]

Where are the blades breaking?

Are the blades deformed or bent at the clamp point of the quick clamp?

[Tom Gi]

Just now, Wichman said:

Where are the blades breaking?

Are the blades deformed or bent at the clamp point of the quick clamp?

The blades have a crimp at the top 

they all break at the crimp or within an inch of the top

 

[Wichman]

22 minutes ago, Tom Gi said:

The blades have a crimp at the top 

they all break at the crimp or within an inch of the top

 

Your quick clamp may be misadjusted. Here is my method of adjustment:

Remove the quick clamp from the saw (makes it easier to get to it).

I use the largest feeler gauge in my set, .035, and gently clamp it in place with the knurled knob. Next I adjust the set screw on the opposite side until it just touches the feeler gauge.

Now, when you tighten the knurled knob it clamps against a flat surface and should not crimp the blade(s).

Edited Friday at 02:18 AM by Wichman

[Tom Gi]

1 hour ago, Wichman said:

Your quick clamp may be misadjusted. Here is my method of adjustment:

Remove the quick clamp from the saw (makes it easier to get to it).

I use the largest feeler gauge in my set, .035, and gently clamp it in place with the knurled knob. Next I adjust the set screw on the opposite side until it just touches the feeler gauge.

Now, when you tighten the knurled knob it clamps against a flat surface and should not crimp the blade(s).

I tried adjusting the set screw but not in that way

i should be able to use a real wide blade and do it the way you describe 

thanks

[kmmcrafts]

Do you have any other styles of blades? There have been times over the years where defective blades have made it past quality control. Just a thought I had because it has happened to me twice before and I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out what was wrong with the saw and it ended up being the blade. 

[Tom Gi]

8 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Do you have any other styles of blades? There have been times over the years where defective blades have made it past quality control. Just a thought I had because it has happened to me twice before and I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out what was wrong with the saw and it ended up being the blade. 

I have tried a couple Olson blades with no success 

[OCtoolguy]

Try setting up your clamp as Wich suggested. I do it that way too but I will add that I try to get the blade as close to center in the slot as possible so before I do any adjusting g I run the the set screw in a thread or 2, then clamp the feeler gage in place and adjust the set screw in or out.

[garryatpa]

3/8 inch is a big difference in the alignment of the top and bottom clamps.  Since you are using a quick clamp on the top arm the screw or bolt  to hold it in place should be tight to the clamp so the clamp does not move.   Check the set screw on the left side on  both the quick clamp and the bottom clamp.  Initially they should both be set so the end of the set screw is in line with the inside edge of the clamp slot on the left.  Install a blade and tension it.  To tension, turn the tension knob to take up any slack , then add another 1/2 to 3/4 turn.   Run the saw at a moderate speed and when standing in front of the saw and looking at the blade while running the blade should appear as a  solid line, not blurry.  If it looks blurry the blade is moving side to side at the same time it is moving up and down.  Is the blade at 90 degrees to the table.  Use a small machinist square to check the blade to table is at 90 degrees.   If this checks out then you may have to adjust the set screw in the quick clamp or bottom clamp or both in order to move the top or bottom of the blade so it moves straight up and down and is at 90 degrees to the table.   I am not sure what else you can do.  Is either the top or bottom arm bushing worn and are you getting excessive movement of the arm side to side . there should be very little movement of the arms side to side. How old is your saw?  What model are you using? Have you done any repairs to the arms or bushings?   Advance Machinery have very knowledgeable staff and I have found them to be a great help in the past. 

 

Garry 

[Tom Gi]

On 9/26/2026 at 11:32 AM, garryatpa said:

3/8 inch is a big difference in the alignment of the top and bottom clamps.  Since you are using a quick clamp on the top arm the screw or bolt  to hold it in place should be tight to the clamp so the clamp does not move.   Check the set screw on the left side on  both the quick clamp and the bottom clamp.  Initially they should both be set so the end of the set screw is in line with the inside edge of the clamp slot on the left.  Install a blade and tension it.  To tension, turn the tension knob to take up any slack , then add another 1/2 to 3/4 turn.   Run the saw at a moderate speed and when standing in front of the saw and looking at the blade while running the blade should appear as a  solid line, not blurry.  If it looks blurry the blade is moving side to side at the same time it is moving up and down.  Is the blade at 90 degrees to the table.  Use a small machinist square to check the blade to table is at 90 degrees.   If this checks out then you may have to adjust the set screw in the quick clamp or bottom clamp or both in order to move the top or bottom of the blade so it moves straight up and down and is at 90 degrees to the table.   I am not sure what else you can do.  Is either the top or bottom arm bushing worn and are you getting excessive movement of the arm side to side . there should be very little movement of the arms side to side. How old is your saw?  What model are you using? Have you done any repairs to the arms or bushings?   Advance Machinery have very knowledgeable staff and I have found them to be a great help in the past. 

 

Garry 

Thank you for all the help 

the saw is two years old 

when I got it from someone else the blade was off center from the plate in the table so I did loosen the bolts under side and get the blade so it would be back in the center