Vector01

Hi: Does this qualify for the easter challenge?

Hi Christina: Great info...Thanks! I did download GIMP and Inkscape. I'm trying to figure them out The video by Travis about the basic pattern creation helped with Inkscape. Going from burning to scrolling just requires a different approach as you mentioned. I will contact you before I start my next project. Thanks Again!

Hi All: Anyone have any sources for lamp fixtures? I'm thinking of a low wattage (15W Max) small base bulbs, 115V. I want to generate a soft glow in the lamp just enough to light up the detail in the cut. Thanks!

Hi All: I'll try the colored pen to setup the pattern. I did notice on the used saw blades they were brittle. I tried bending the old ones and they snapped like a dried twig. This usually indicates work hardening caused by heat. I'll try slowing the speed and cut.

Hi All: I'm having problems creating scroll patterns out of photos, drawings, etc. I can look at a photo and create a burn with no problems. I just can't seem to get the scroll pattern design thing. Especially deciding what to cut out and not end up with a bunch of pieces. Are there any tricks or procedures to help when creating a scroll pattern? On my recent work (goldfish) I used Olson 5R/12.5 TPI blades to cut the design. I went thru 6 blades to do it. I used the correct tension and ran around 50% speed (800SPM). The blades lasted about a 1/2 hour each. Is this normal use/wear for this blade on this type of wood? Thanks!

Hi All: Thanks...The lamp thing is a great idea! I can see I'll be spending a few more bucks for supplies

I tried to do some lettering...Not so good. I suppose with more practice I could get better results. Being conditioned to use a flat blade it takes a whole different "feel" to use the spirals. I'm looking to do a landscape cut in the future. The spirals will be great for doing bushes, mountain details, bark detail and things like that. Have Fun!

Hi All: I went to my woodburning books and pulled this from one of Lora Irish's patterns. I thought that this would make an interesting practice piece. My biggest challenge was how to make a scrollsaw pattern out of a woodburning one. I'm still having problems with planning my cuts so I don't end up with a jigsaw puzzle. I went for broke and started cutting away. I added the chinese symbol for fish and another plant to balance it out. The frame design was a last minute idea. I saw a frame shape like that at my local chinese restaraunt the other day. It was cut from 1/2" oak and the majority of the cuts were made with an Olson 5R blade. It was fun. Hopefully I'll be ordering some wood from Sloane's next week. I got a bunch of ideas. Have Fun [attachment=0]fishcompweb.jpg[/attachment]

That's excellent!! What a great idea.

Hi: I've had the same experiences with my pyrography...Plenty of acclades but no one reaching for their wallet. Finding a good venue for your art is hit and miss. Specialized art & craft shows dealing in woodcrafts is a great idea. When you have to compete with the flea market vendors it's diffulcult. People are cruising the booths looking for an original Picasso for $10.00 bucks. The current state of our economy doesn't help much either. Demonstrations are a great boost to sales. The buyers see the finished piece and aren't aware of the time and art that goes into making a piece. I know pyrographers that spend a few extra dollars to get electricity to their booths. They bring their woodburning equipment and actually work on a piece during the show. This helps in attracting more potential buyers. Have Fun!

First time I've heard of it. Like mentioned...There isn't too much that you can't find on the net. I would spend the money on supplies. Have Fun!

Nice work! In my opinion, just as in woodburning, portraits are the most diffulcult to do.

Good call on the hold down screw. I'll check it out. Probably be the same thread. As a quicky, I cut out a "key" to use to tighten that lower screw. When I get to the hardware store I'll pick up a plain hex drive screw that I can use my allen wrench on. [attachment=0]key1.jpg[/attachment]

I looked up the Craftsman again and it seems that there are quite a few design features that are simular on the Hitachi. These companies tend to duplicate the most popular features on each others products. I don't know who actually makes the Craftsman saws. But with more U.S. companies outsourcing work, who knows? I fear that the term "Made In America" might soon become something only referenced in a history book.

I recently purchased a new scrollsaw. I was looking for one that had the light, blower, tilt table and stand. My budget was $200.00 dollars (according to the boss). After some research, I purchased the Hitachi. The saw appeared well manufactured. There were no gaps or grind marks in the cast body. The finish was a nice gun metal gray. The stand was metal. The color matched the saw and was easily assembled. After assembling the stand it was just a matter of bolting down the saw. So much for looks. A few simple tests were in order. I wanted to check to see if the table was square to the blade when set to zero. Not having a small machinist's square, I used the old straight cut test. Cut a straight line into some scrap wood and then ran the blade into the cut from behind the blade. Passed. The next was to cut out a square and round piece. I ran the pieces back into the wood from top and bottom. Slipped in and out with no problem. Passed. The table has set stops from 15-45 degrees left and right. It also is "micro" adjustable. I set the table to approximately 2.5 degrees and made two bevel cuts (left and right). Checked the pieces and they sat in the cuts as they should (above and below). Passed. I've read posts about the infamous "standing nickel test." This is a test of the vibration or lack of during operation of the saw. It so happened I had one handy. The saw is rated from 400-1600 SPM. I ran the test twice. Once with the nickel in front of the blade and then with it to the right of the blade. I stood the nickel on end and started at the lowest speed and gradually increased the speed until old George hit the deck like a drunken sailor. In both positions, I was able to get to 80% speed before the nickel fell. This comes out to 1280 SPM out of the rated 1600 SPM's. I'm not an expert on saws, but this seems acceptable. Now for the cons. I don't think cons would be an appropriate term. More an inconvenience. The first is the tensioning knob is at the rear of the saw. If you are doing a piece with a lot of inside cuts and you sit while scrollen, then you will get your exercise for the day. The second is attempting to attach the blade to the lower arm. According to the manual, the blade has to be attached to the lower arm first. After tilting the table as instructed and inserting the blade thru the insert, you're expected to align the blade in the holder and tighten. This is great if you happen to have three hands. If you also have large hands this adds to the frustration. No problemo! Attach the blade to the upper arm first. Then with the table set at zero, you can look thru the table insert and use both hands (one from each side of the table) and attach to the blade to the lower arm. After about five minutes of trying it their way I was swearing like a "ticked off" drill instructor! The last is the hold down mechanism. It's large and mostly in the way. If your working on a small piece...Forget about it! I don't use it anyway so I just removed it. I'm not trying to endorse this particular saw but just sharing my impressions of it so far. Like mentioned before, I'm no expert on the different models. The last saw I owned was over six years ago and was a Craftsman (which ran great). I paid $169.00 dollars for this setup and for the price I thought it was a good deal. I had enough cash leftover to order some Olson blades. Have Fun!

Hi All: Do you still radius the backside of the blades? I understand that stoning a light radius on the edges on the rear of the blade helps when doing tight cuts. The rounded edges help reduce friction and binding during turns. Have Fun!

Hi Travis: Yep...I use the broom holder spring clips. I would have preferred something lite weight but couldn't find anything. I use the caps on the pvc. This was a quicky. I'll be redesigning another one later on. I'll post a pic in my album. Have Fun!

Hi: I use the 1/2" PVC marked with a label maker. I use spring clips to hold the tubes mounted to a piece of poplar which is held onto the saw stand with magnets.