Vector01

Picked up the scroll saw and stand few weeks ago. Due to a shipping snafu, the saw came before the stand. Set up the saw on my heavy oak kitchen table, made the adjustments suggested in the manual and gave it a go. It ran quiet with no vibrations at about half speed. When I turned up past that, it started rocking and rolling. Had I tried the nickle test, it would have made change...LOL. I was a bit disappointed. Almost ready to send it back, the stand came in. Assembled the stand, mounted the saw on the stand and tried it again. Voila! it ran smooth and quiet through all speeds. I love the ease on changing blades and the tilting head as opposed of the table tilt. The big test was how it cut! Made a couple of segmented pieces as well as a puzzle, cut like a dream. When I can split a pencil line with the blade I know I have a good saw. The saw came with three lower blade holders which made it great to switch blades when they became dull. The test will be how long it runs without any issues. I had my old Porter Cable for quiet a few years with no problems.

Made this one for my friends new babies room. The whole room is a Jumanji theme. Made from walnut and ash. Measures 21" L by 6" W.

6 1/2 " high by 5 1/2 " wide.

When I get my mystery box of wood from Ocooch, I get some wood that is split or knotted. There's always something to make with them.

Thanks All! I wish I could sell some, just to recover some of my supply costs.

Made from a piece of split red cedar. When it dries I'll add a magnet an put it on the fridge.

You've heard of Stonehenge, well this is Woodhenge. I really hate to throw out my scrap...LOL!

Some 1/4 " walnut, maple and steve good pattern. Changed it up a bit. Made the base square and added the yin-yang. Might have to add a light backer, to see it better.

When shaping parts, dust collection is always a concern. I made this up with 1/2 inch pine and 1/4 inch ply. Just connect your vac and no annoying wood dust flying around. It also works great on my drill press.

Inspired by a friends pregnancy I made this out of 3/8 oak scrap wood. I call it "birth".

Originally it was only the jag pattern from Steve Good. Cut it and thought it was a bit plain, so I took some wood scraps and added a few things. Came out ok.

Hi Lucky2: Never used the Ex21. But appears to be the same as Jet. My understanding is the Jet is the new EX21? The inlay worked fine. Could have used a smaller blade to reduce the kerf on the cheese board. I usually use the Olson 5R blade for most of my projects.

The jet was fantastic. Due to the lack of noticeable vibration, the small detail cuts were easy. I would compare it to my old Dewalt(Canada mfg.), as far as power and ease of cutting all types of wood. The jet has more adjustments for fine tuning (blade tension and movement) than the Dewalt. The plus with the jet is the ease of blade changes and the top arm adjustment which allows the arm to stay up when doing inside cuts. It works a lot better than my old Porter Cable saw. My Porter Cable worked fine until the vibration issue became a problem. The PC was over 4 years old, not worth fixing. Bar any problems, this will be my last saw! Here's a couple more I did...

If you go to the bottom of the page (scroll saw ready hard wood) you will see it. Unfortunately, they are out of stock at this time.

I've been purchasing my baltic birch ply from Ocooch hard woods. I noticed they had a deal on hardwood seconds. These are pieces that might have some defects and can't be sold as "scroll saw ready" wood. They might have splits, knots, off sizes or need sanding. I bought the 20 lb box of domestic hardwood seconds. What I got was great...received some red cedar, black walnut, maple and oak. These would be great for segmentation, intrasia or general experimenting. I'm going to try their exotic wood seconds when they have more. http://ocoochhardwoods.com/scroll_saw_lumber.php

Well finally got down to trying out my new Jet SS. All in all worked great. Only drawback had to use cheap ply from Lowes. Had a few breaks and chips along the way. Patter from Steve Good.

Picked up the scroll saw and stand few weeks ago. Due to a shipping snafu, the saw came before the stand. Set up the saw on my heavy oak kitchen table, made the adjustments suggested in the manual and gave it a go. It ran quiet with no vibrations at about half speed. When I turned up past that, it started rocking and rolling. Had I tried the nickle test, it would have made change...LOL. I was a bit disappointed. Almost ready to send it back, the stand came in. Assembled the stand, mounted the saw on the stand and tried it again. Voila! it ran smooth and quiet through all speeds. I love the ease on changing blades and the tilting head as opposed of the table tilt. The big test was how it cut! Made a couple of segmented pieces as well as a puzzle, cut like a dream. When I can split a pencil line with the blade I know I have a good saw. The saw came with three lower blade holders which made it great to switch blades when they became dull. The test will be how long it runs without any issues. I had my old Porter Cable for quiet a few years with no problems. (Tried to post this in Scroll Saw Reviews but it seems to be locked)?

I have heard that people go by the sound the blade makes when plucked. They compare it a certain musical note, unfortunately my hearing is not that good anymore, so a visual works better for me I wouldn't no a C from an E. .

If you ask 20 people the proper way to tension your blades you'll probably get 20 different answers. You can pluck it, twang it, strum it, push it etc. But when you get that sweet spot for the wood/thickness your cutting, how do you duplicate it? Most high end saws have blade tension levers that return the tension to the original setting. On my RYOBI it's hit and miss, especially when changing blades or doing inside cuts where you are constantly releasing the tension. Looking through Amazon the other day, I came across an inexpensive guitar tuner. I figured for $7.00 bucks I'd give it a try. Got it today so I tried it out..https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019FAKN4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Worked great! Tested it 5 times with the same blade and received the same reading. Now I know when cutting 1/2 pine with a 5R blade what the blade tension should be. It seems to work better if attached somewhere above the blade (see photos). So when changing blade/wood combinations and I find the right tension I'll have an idea what the tension should be. I'm no musician, so i set it for Guitar and 435HZ ( I have no clue what that means).

Here's one I found on Amazon.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G4VTYAU/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I38AYBNKNH7E2U&colid=9BGM88RDUZNL

Been doing this for quite a few years. Apply clear packing tape to wood. Spray back of pattern with Elmers multi purpose adhesive, apply pattern, drill pilot holes and cut. After just peel off tape and everything comes off with no hassle or extra steps. Have left tape on wood for three days once with no issues. Any more than that and the tape might pull up the wood fibers when removing.

Yeah...The good old days! Not happening anymore :( Oh well...Like we used to say in the Navy "Haze gray and underway" Emphasis on the gray

Both look great! Got a complete airbrush set I used a couple of times. Never got the hang of it.

Got up at 2 am to finish this one. Last minute Xmas request from the Mom for the boys Dad! No more...I'm done till next year. I hate rush jobs. Can't find the original pic to compare, she was happy with the final piece.

Well worth the money! Right on with the details.