Vector01
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Everything posted by Vector01
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Well...First shot with the Porter Cable 18" SS. It's starting to come back. Wanted a brush holder for my sumi-e brushes. Got some pine shelving from a neighbor and went at it. Caught myself repeating the old bad habits, pushing too hard against the blade, and the old sideways shove on turns. Off course I snapped a few blades over tightening...LOL! A little finish sanding, some stain and it's done. For those of you asking what is sumi-e, pronounced (sumay aye), It's Japanese brush painting.
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Yep...Time to make some sawdust. Looking for my old links to wood and blade resources. If I remember, Sloane's and the Flying Dutchman!
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Hi All: Been a while...Just picked up a new Porter Cable 18" SS. Spent last night doing a basic tune on it. Squaring blade to table, touching up the thumb screws to get rid of that nasty "J" bend on the blade ends when tightening holders, etc. Seems to run great with low vibration. The big shock was when I opened Gimp. I was totally lost. Back to the tutorial. Just like riding a bike, I need some refreshers. Glad to see some of my friends are still here! This has always been a great site for scrollen. Now to get some wood and blades!
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Not FD's fault (oily blades). They were oiled for storage. The FD blades come dry. I purchased a lot of em...Wolfmoon is innocent
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This was a free stained glass pattern from http://www.spectrumglass.com/stained-glass/patterns/ Cut from 3/4" pine using FD-PSR5 blades. Colored using an acrylic wash. Looks more like a collie than a wolf
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Check out Sloane's http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/hardwoods.htm
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Normally adjusting the tension rod will only affect the tension settings. Check Rick's site for other options. http://scrollsaws.com/
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Oops...I should have wrote "every third tooth on the blade (FD-UR) is a reverse." A bit of brain fade on that one...LOL.
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Hey: In my experience with the FD-UR blades and 1/4" BB ply, I found an increase in chatter (wood lifting) while cutting. Every third blade is a reverse which accounts, in my opinion, for the increase in chatter. More chatter increases the possibility of tearout. As mentioned by Montgomery...Making tight turns with little support material can also cause chipping. I also have a DW788 and run my speed between 3-4 when cutting fretwork in 1/4" BB ply. I normally use FD-PSR5 blades when cutting intricate details in BB ply. I've used these for quite awhile with excellent results (no tearout). If you are experiencing a lot of chatter when using these blades, just increase your downward pressure on the wood when cutting. If this continues to be a problem try a different blade. Cutting to slow can be a problem also. I find you tend to push harder on the wood to compensate for the slow cutting at lower speeds.
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Hi Mark: Made one just for personal use. Holes can be drilled with a dremel tool and router attachment. Made the template(s) with Inkscape.
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Thanks...Yep it spells their last name.
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Had a request from a friend to create a scroll portrait for a birthday present from a sketch of a tatoo. This was done about a month ago. Just recently received the Ok from the original artist to post the work. Created on 1/4" baltic birch plywood and cut with FD-PSR5 blades. Took around seven hours to cut. Original design by tatoo artist Zack Brown. He requested adding the following..."happy birfday el chaddo"
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Looking back on my cheat sheet. I cut 1/2" purpleheart using a FD-PSR5 blade. I gave it an 8 out of 10 for cutting that type of wood.
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Great idea...Will look good.
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Hi: If it's 10 years old it's probably a type I. These were made in Canada. The newer ones type II are made in Taiwan. They are both identical in operation. The type ones were known for their excellent quality control. The type two's not so much. I purchased a type II about four months ago from Grizzly with no problems. I do a lot of fine detail fret work with it with no complaints. When buying anything used remember "Caveat Emptor" buyer beware. If you can actually try the saw out before purchasing that would be great. If you're new to scroll saws and you can bring someone that has some experience with you that would be even better. Unfortunately it would take a long post to explain what to look for in the saw. If it's a purchase unseen then you will end up with any problems with the saw. I would suggest waiting a few months to save the money for a new one. This way you have some recourse should there be any problems with the saw.
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New Excalibur EX-30 totally broke
Vector01 replied to Tigerhellmaker's topic in General Scroll Sawing
My initial thought would be to send it back and get a replacement! Call Seyco and let them deal with it. -
Been really nutty around here. New kitchen and bathroom floors installed. I finally had some time to cut today. This was a request from the wife. Cut on 1/4" baltic birch ply. Used FD-PSR5 blades. Overall size 8.5" X 11".
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From a Stool to a chair with my 788 De Walt
Vector01 replied to qlty's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Still have the original Dw788 stand. Used my old Hitachi stand with a few modifications. Much more comfortable. -
What kind of music do you listen to while scrolling?
Vector01 replied to Woodburner63's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Classic Rock and Oldies -
Hi Marg: I've been installing the blades that way even with the Hitachi. Why most of the manuals suggest installing the bottom first, I don't know. Seems easier this way.
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Here's another one. Had problems actually having the line (on the wood) to show. http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i83/graphman/
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Still playing with MS Movie Maker...Added sound this time http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i83/g ... tupWeb.mp4
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Like many I don't have a shop to work in. I have to cut in my living room. Keeping my work area as clean as possible is paramount. Keeps the dust from flying all over the place and reduces the chances of inhaling same (I wear a dust mask). I came up with this solution that has been working great so far. The pictures attached show the set up and dust that accumulated after cutting 3/4" pine for about an hour. I was suprised how well the mini shop vac worked. You do have to take the vac outside dump it and and brush off the paper filter after about six hours of cutting. I try and place the vac hose as close to the hole in the table as possible. If its to close to the lower blade holder you'll know. You can hear the blade holder hitting the hose.
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Here's a few posts on the Dewalt that might help... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3610&p=20131&hilit=dewalt+setup#p20131 I believe I did five posts total search.php?st=0&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&keywords=dewalt+setup&start=10
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Hi: Lubricate...I understand that once every couple of years to remove the back plate (motor and connecting rod area) and apply some white lithium grease to the wedge and any other linkages. I use a drop of "breakfree" on the upper and lower blade holders (around the bearings) about every third project. Breakfree will not clog (collect dust). There are a few ways to keep the arm up...Like mentioned the arm lifter. Make up a holder from scrap wood. You can also tighten up the screw that connects the arm to the frame. This will hold the arm up. Get rid of the hold down and lower guard. Makes it much easier to change blades. Quicky arm lift
