Vector01

Those are kool...Nice cutting

Great work...Is the deer an insert? If so that's some close tolerance cutting. I see we might also have a pyro here

Spectacular work Did you use an airbrush to detail the figures?

Nope...The 788 is an agressive cutter. Depending on the thickness and wood type this will change how you cut. Blades in general tend to favor "drifting" either right or left depending how they were stamped. The teeth protrude a bit to either side depending on the brand. To help with this you can actually "hone" the side of the blade. Using a fine lap or arkansas stone while the saw is running, lightly place the stone against the side of the blade (teeth protruding) and hone down that side. The other issue as mentioned is blade tension. You shouldn't have any forward or reverse play more than 1/8". I developed an ear so that I can pluck the blade to get a certain tone when it's tensioned properly. I had a an experience today where I was cutting and noticed the blade was was bowing left and right. I happened to look up at the tensioning lever and laughed. I never tensioned the blade...It happens Another possibility is applying "side pressure" to either side of the work piece while feeding the wood to the blade. This will definitely cause the blade to "run off" track. Pattern design and cutting line thickness can also affect your cutting (for me anyway) I cannot cut an all black pattern or thick line. For me I find a light gray fill with a black line against the white paper helps me keep on track. I find that a thin line .25 pixel on my patterns helps. The thin line makes you focus more on the line which causes your brain to transfer this information to your hands which in turn can make the minute adjustments needed to stay on line. This is nothing new...If you've ever hunted with a bow or rifle or did any target shooting this comes into play. Pick a spot on the target, not the whole target and you will be much more accurate.

If you really need to get into the "innards" just to check it out...Take a look at this... http://www.scrollsaws.com/images/TipVid ... DownBB.wmv

I see you're into "micro-scrollen." If the economy doesn't get any better soon you'll have to start scrollen twenty dollar bills

The 788 needs just a bit of getting used to. If you run across any problems with the saw check out this link...http://www.scrollsaws.com/SawReviews/DewltTuneUp.htm As far as telling the wife...Check out my signature

Oh Man! Did a little fall cleaning in my wood scrap box today. I couldn't believe the pieces I found. I had stuff so small it was barely bigger than a wood chip What kind of reasoning did I use to keep this stuff Oh yeah...This would make a good shim or maybe I'll need a small piece to fix a cut If it wasn't big enough to make a 3" keychain it got tossed. I feel much better now and my scrap box is much lighter

If you can pick up some 1/2" pine that would be good to practice with. The 788 goes through thin wood (1/4" or less) like a mad beaver If cutting 1/4" or less turn down the speed and go slow. 1/2" or 3/4" wood will let you play with the speed and different blades. I just cut a backing out of 1/4" walnut ply. Had to turn the speed down to 2 and go real slow. Had no problem following the line and cutting a 9" X 12" oval.

Check out this video...This guy made this from scratch (no pattern). Unbelievable craftmanship He kinda looks like someone familiar I wonder if he has some reindeer parked outside his workshop

Well except for a 1/8 X 3-1/2" machine screw for the tensioning mechanism it's done. Made from 3/4" Oak and 3/8" canary wood (scrap from other projects). Overall it's 7-1/4" tall by 7-1/2" long. It's as close as I could get to the original picture. The hardest part was fitting a blade to the arms. I tried to bend the blades and kept snapping them. Finally figured just twist the ends to lock it in place. Got it so the arms will move up and down thanks to Grampa's cam idea Now if I can get it moving fast enough I can cut some wood [attachment=4]saw1.jpg[/attachment][attachment=3]saw2.jpg[/attachment][attachment=2]saw3.jpg[/attachment][attachment=1]saw4.jpg[/attachment][attachment=0]saw5.jpg[/attachment]

Hey...Truth is stranger than fiction. I already have a basic rubber band drive designed for it I really don't want to get too nuts with this

That's a great piece of scrollen...Will look nice in the living room by the tree

Great cut

Dunno? I'll have to give it the standing nickel test when it's done

Beautiful work...The shaping, fitting and colors make it lifelike.

Checked out those links...Wow talk about crude. That Delta looked it was put together by a mad plumber After searching for a while I did find a pic of something close...Basic design and mechanics of the one I have... [attachment=0]old saw.jpg[/attachment]

Ahaaa...Yes a cam Attached to the main shaft. This will allow for additional support on both sides of the cam. Great work Mr. Holmes Unfortunately the original photo does not show the mechanics or give any dimensions. Thought a bit of a brain teaser was in order "With this clue Dr. Watson, we shall soon have full knowledge of Dr. Moriarty's fiendish device." Can you tell I'm a fan of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle

Hi All: Working on a scale model of a wooden scroll saw (1800's). I would like to be able to move the arms up and down (slightly) by use of a simple crank. Doesn't have to cut wood just move a little. I don't have the finished dimensions yet. Still designing the parts. It will be approximately 6" long by 4" high. Unfortunately the original picture is on another site and due to copyrite I don't want to post it here. I can't seem to find another photo of this saw anywhere. I'm not a engineer so I'm not quite sure if my design will work. I played around and made what I think might work using Google Sketchup. Again, in theory it might move Can anybody give me some pointers with this? What do I need to modify? Here's a few basic picks... [attachment=4]scroll table 1.png[/attachment][attachment=0]scroll saw table5.png[/attachment] [attachment=3]scroll saw table 2.png[/attachment] [attachment=2]scroll saw table 3.png[/attachment] [attachment=1]scroll saw table 4.png[/attachment] Thanks!

That really stinks Can you remove the case to get to the innards? Maybe you can apply something a bit more heavy like bearing grease. The Delta 40-690 Is a spitten image of the DeWalt 788. There's a rumor that DeWalt will discontinue the 788 saw. Same story as the Hitachi now Porter Cable. Just a different name on the same product. Oh well...Hard to tell the players without a score card Holidays are coming there will be some sales coming on these saws.

That's wonderful It's great to teach the younger kids about giving to others Cherish the moments. They grow up quick... Now you have to pick up a pair of green tights, curly toe shoes and a red hat That would really shock them Xmas morning

Hi WR: Sorry about that...Cut out the gray. I'm used to cutting gray patterns (easier for me to cut the line). Here's the one in black...Cut out the black. I use the FD-PSR5 on 1/4" ply. But the #3 should do just fine. [attachment=0]polar bear2.png[/attachment]

Here's a quick one...I opened it up to cut more detail. [attachment=0]bear3jpg.jpg[/attachment]

I get the document frames from WalMart. Most of my portrait cuts are 8.5 X 11" so they fit perfectly. I use 1/4" baltic birch plywood. Drop the cut in the frame with backing and secure with the tabs.

Wow...Looks like you blew that out with some C4 That will work now Although I'm a bit confused on the purpose of the battery and the hair color with making the hole Never mind...I don't want to know